LATEST ARTICLES

Climb Insider: Europe trade show, US gym openings

insider header image

Just a few thoughts

It’s a big week for our industry friends in Europe – best wishes to everyone attending Vertical Pro tomorrow and Saturday! We’ve heard about many new products and services hitting the market this week at the continent’s largest climbing industry trade show. Here in the US we’d like to celebrate a slew of gyms that just opened, a few films about our expanding global community, cool holdart, industry insights, podcasts, webinars, more. See The Freshest Job Posts Here

Community

Trango Holds Pardners

Gym Announcements

Industry Scene

For Managers

Comp Scene

Elevate Climbing Walls

Training Tips


Many of the links above are from third-party sources, and the views expressed at those links do not necessarily represent the views of the CBJ editorial team. We share this content to help readers stay informed about what is happening in the industry and the community of climbing.

Multiple Positions Open at Shift – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 November 21

shift climbing header CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Brand, Experience, & Content Creator Head Routesetter Hospitality Guide Instructor Routesetter Shift Climbing Holland, MI “Shift is looking to make a change in the climbing industry. We’re not trying to do the same thing everyone else is doing because we have a unique love for climbing, and we have an equal, if not greater, love for creating one of a kind, life changing places for really great people to work! This starts with our company culture, and we see you (the team) as the most important part of the business!”
Eldorado Climbing

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

What to research about a company before a job interview By CareerBuilder “It may seem obvious that you should know what the company you’re interviewing with does, but you might be surprised to know that some interviewees don’t know much about the company they’re trying to land a job at. Having a basic understanding of the company’s accomplishments, challenges, and expectations can go a long way in showing the interviewer how serious you are about joining the team. Hiring managers might ask you what you know about the company, and failing to have a quality answer might tell them that you’re not serious about the job.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Sales and Software Support Specialist at Redpoint HQ Anywhere FT – other
Head Routesetter and Assistant Team Coach at Beta Bouldering Gym Flagstaff, AZ PT – coach, routesetter
Facilities Associate at Movement Sunnyvale, CA FT – manufacturing
Programs/Operations Manager at ABC Academy Naperville, IL FT – manager
Brand, Experience, & Content Creator at Shift Holland, MI FT – mktg/sales
Head Routesetter at Shift Holland, MI FT – routesetter
Hospitality Guide at Shift Holland, MI FT – front desk
Instructor at Shift Holland, MI FT – instructor
Routesetter at Shift Holland, MI FT – routesetter
Gym Staff + Instructor at The Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ PT – front desk, instructor
Yoga Instructor at The Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ PT – instructor
Assistant Coach at Brimstone Boulders Hood River, OR PT – coach
Coaching Manager at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – coach, instructor, manager
General Manager at Bouldering Project Austin, TX FT – manager
Head Routesetter at Bouldering Project Austin, TX FT – manager
Youth Program Manager at Momentum Lehi, UT FT – manager
Facilities Manager at Edgeworks Bellevue/Seattle/Tacoma, WA FT – manager

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

NAMETYPELOCATION
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.pngAccess Fundhttps://www.accessfund.org/about/careersorganizationUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wi-adventure-rock.pngAdventure Rockhttps://adventurerock.com/jobs/facilityUSA - WI
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.pngAlpine Climbing Adventure Fitnesshttps://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/facilityUSA - CA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/american-alpine-club.pngAmerican Alpine Clubhttps://americanalpineclub.org/jobsorganizationUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.pngASCEND Climbinghttps://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobsfacilityUSA - OH, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.pngAscent Studiohttps://ascentstudio.com/employment/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.pngBouldering Project (pick location)https://boulderingproject.com/facilityUSA - MN, TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpgCalgary Climbing Centrehttps://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/facilityCanada - AB
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.pngCentral Rock Gymhttps://centralrockgym.com/careers/facilityUSA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.pngEldorado Climbinghttps://eldowalls.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO - Louisville
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.pngEP Climbinghttps://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careersproductUSA - OR - Bend
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.pngEverlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpressionhttps://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careersproductUSA - MN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.pngFA Climbinghttps://faclimbing.com/careers/facilityUSA - IL, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.pngGuelph Grottohttps://www.guelphgrotto.com/careersfacilityCanada - ON - Guelph
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.pngHead Rush Technologies // TRUBLUEhttps://trublueclimbing.com/about/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.pngHigh Point Climbing & Fitnesshttps://www.highpointclimbing.com/employmentfacilityUSA - AL, TN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.pngMomentumhttps://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLCfacilityUSA - TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.pngMovement Gymshttps://movementgyms.com/careers/facilityUSA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.pngOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.pngOnSitehttps://www.theonsite.com/careersproductCanada - QC
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.pngOrganic Climbinghttps://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunitiesproductUSA - PA - Philipsburg
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.pngPeak Experienceshttps://www.peakexperiences.com/employmentfacilityUSA - VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.pngSalon de l'Escaladehttps://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/organizationFrance
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.pngStone Agehttps://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/facilityUSA - NM - Albuquerque
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.pngThe Fronthttps://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/facilityUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.pngThe Gravity Vaulthttps://gravityvault.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NJ, NY, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.pngThe Padhttps://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/facilityUSA - CA, NV
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.pngThe Spothttps://www.thespotgym.com/careersfacilitiesUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.pngTrango // Tenayahttps://trango.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.pngTreadwallhttps://treadwallfitness.com/careers/productUSA - MA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.pngTriangle Rock Club (choose location)https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/facilityUSA - NC, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.pngUbergrippenhttps://ugclimbing.com/jobs/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.pngUKC (jobs in UK)https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/organizationUnited Kingdom
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpgVertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebblehttps://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careersproductUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.pngVertical Worldhttps://verticalworld.com/facilityUSA - WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.pngVitalhttps://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NY, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.pngWalltopiahttps://careers.walltopia.com/productsBulgaria

Does anyone REALLY know what grades are? Online Discussion December 10

Does anyone REALLY know what grades are? Does anyone really know what grades are? If you think the answer to that question is yes, you may want to reconsider. Many routesetting experts would argue the answer is no, and will always be no. But…there are productive ways to talk about grades, both within your routesetting teams and with your community at large. Join us as we chat with Flannery Shay-Nemirow and Tonde Katiyo about how best to approach this juggernaut of a topic in a way that sets us up for success rather than strife.

DECEMBER 10 @6PM MT

RSVP HERE BUTTON

Setters Only! is a series of free online discussions led by Foxman McCarthy-James and Justin Wright from Vortex Routesetting, with relevant guests from across the industry. The panel-discussion-style sessions include time for interactive Q&As with attendees.

Upcoming Dates: JANUARY 14 & FEBRUARY 11 @6PM MT (Monthly on 2nd Tuesday)

Meet your hosts and guests:

Flannery Shay-Nemirow has been setting for over a decade and climbing for 20+ years. In that time, they have set all over the U.S. and Canada, everything from opening sets to clinics to the commercial grind. Now, they’re a USAC Level 4 setter and clinic instructor and just recently became an IFSC Level 3 setter. Currently they live in Tucson, Arizona, where they’re always looking for freelancing jobs to get out of the summer heat. Flannery Shay-Nemirow
Tonde Katiyo began setting in 1995 and has set for national and international competitions all over the world, in addition to commercial gym work. He has been one of the profession’s great thought leaders and has been a vocal proponent of the RIC scale as well as other routesetting workplace advancements. He’s currently contributing to the Australian setting scene where he lives with his family. Tonde Katiyo
Foxman McCarthy-James is an owner and consultant with Vortex Routesetting. She has brought her background in education into her routesetting career, serving on the CWA Routesetting and Work at Height Committees and teaching routesetting clinics around the country. She is passionate about continuing the conversation on how we can make our industry more welcoming and inclusive. www.vortexroutesetting.com Foxman McCarthy-James
Justin Wright is an owner and consultant with Vortex Routesetting. He holds a USAC L4 and has developed routesetting teams across the country. Serving on the CWA’s Routesetting and Work At Height Committees, Justin is committed to helping move the climbing industry forward by developing routesetter education pathways and recommending best practices for volunteer Work At Height standards. www.vortexroutesetting.com Justin Wright

Climb Insider: politics, industry, climbing

image of routesetter

Just a few thoughts

With the US election in the rearview mirror, many of us here are anticipating the changes to come. And our organizations are too – a few responses from OIA and Access Fund below. Also this week you’ll find tips for gym marketing, hiring instructors, a slew of podcasts, and a French analysis of AI and climbing movement. Here at CBJ we want to give a shout out to core team member Naomi Stevens – her 100th gym writeup below is about a new Wisconsin  spot that’s about to open. Thank you, it’s a privilege to work with you Naomi! See The Freshest Job Posts Here

Community

Elevate Climbing Walls

Politics & Climbing

Industry Scene

Comp Scene

For Routesetters

OnSite

For Managers

Training Tips


Many of the links above are from third-party sources, and the views expressed at those links do not necessarily represent the views of the CBJ editorial team. We share this content to help readers stay informed about what is happening in the industry and the community of climbing.

Become Redpoint HQ’s Sales and Software Support Specialist – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 November 14

redpoint hq header image CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Sales and Software Support Specialist Redpoint HQ Anywhere “As a Sales and Software Support Specialist, you will play a crucial role in driving our sales efforts and ensuring our clients receive top-notch support. You will be responsible for managing sales inquiries, conducting software demos, creating engaging demo videos, provide technical support, and assist in creating and maintaining our knowledge base.”
Trango Holds Pardners

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

Employment Gap on a Resume – 13 Simple Ways to Explain It By Andrei Kurtuy “Employment gaps are not uncommon, yet they’re quite scary. Mainly, that’s because recruiters assume the worst when they see them on a resume. In most cases, however, employment gaps are nothing to be scared of. There can be many justifiable reasons why someone has an employment gap, from going back to school and deciding to travel to taking time and caring for their growing children. So what we’re getting to here is this: employment gaps are not a big deal, as long as you know how to explain them well on your resume.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Sales and Software Support Specialist at Redpoint HQ Anywhere FT – other
Head Routesetter at Richmond Olympic Oval Richmond, BC FT – routesetter
Facilities Associate at Movement Sunnyvale, CA FT – manufacturing
Programs/Operations Manager at ABC Academy Naperville, IL FT – manager
Competitive Head Coach at Central Rock Gym Randolph, MA PT – coach
Advanced Team Head Coach at Sportrock Gaithersburg, MD PT – coach, manager
Instructor at Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ PT – front desk, instructor
Routesetter at Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ PT – routesetter
Shift Supervisor at Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ PT – front desk, manager
Head Routesetter at The Rock Club New Rochelle, NY FT – routesetter
Head Routesetter at 5.Life Columbus, OH FT – routesetter
Coaching Manager at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – coach, instructor, manager
Assistant Manager at Momentum Houston, TX FT – manager
Gym Manager at The Front Millcreek, UT FT – manager
Facilities Manager at Edgeworks Bellevue/Seattle/Tacoma, WA FT – manager
Routesetter at Half Moon Seattle, WA PT – routesetter

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

NAMETYPELOCATION
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.pngAccess Fundhttps://www.accessfund.org/about/careersorganizationUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wi-adventure-rock.pngAdventure Rockhttps://adventurerock.com/jobs/facilityUSA - WI
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.pngAlpine Climbing Adventure Fitnesshttps://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/facilityUSA - CA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/american-alpine-club.pngAmerican Alpine Clubhttps://americanalpineclub.org/jobsorganizationUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.pngASCEND Climbinghttps://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobsfacilityUSA - OH, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.pngAscent Studiohttps://ascentstudio.com/employment/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.pngBouldering Project (pick location)https://boulderingproject.com/facilityUSA - MN, TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpgCalgary Climbing Centrehttps://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/facilityCanada - AB
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.pngCentral Rock Gymhttps://centralrockgym.com/careers/facilityUSA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.pngEldorado Climbinghttps://eldowalls.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO - Louisville
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.pngEP Climbinghttps://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careersproductUSA - OR - Bend
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.pngEverlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpressionhttps://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careersproductUSA - MN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.pngFA Climbinghttps://faclimbing.com/careers/facilityUSA - IL, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.pngGuelph Grottohttps://www.guelphgrotto.com/careersfacilityCanada - ON - Guelph
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.pngHead Rush Technologies // TRUBLUEhttps://trublueclimbing.com/about/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.pngHigh Point Climbing & Fitnesshttps://www.highpointclimbing.com/employmentfacilityUSA - AL, TN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.pngMomentumhttps://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLCfacilityUSA - TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.pngMovement Gymshttps://movementgyms.com/careers/facilityUSA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.pngOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.pngOnSitehttps://www.theonsite.com/careersproductCanada - QC
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.pngOrganic Climbinghttps://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunitiesproductUSA - PA - Philipsburg
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.pngPeak Experienceshttps://www.peakexperiences.com/employmentfacilityUSA - VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.pngSalon de l'Escaladehttps://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/organizationFrance
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.pngStone Agehttps://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/facilityUSA - NM - Albuquerque
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.pngThe Fronthttps://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/facilityUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.pngThe Gravity Vaulthttps://gravityvault.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NJ, NY, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.pngThe Padhttps://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/facilityUSA - CA, NV
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.pngThe Spothttps://www.thespotgym.com/careersfacilitiesUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.pngTrango // Tenayahttps://trango.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.pngTreadwallhttps://treadwallfitness.com/careers/productUSA - MA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.pngTriangle Rock Club (choose location)https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/facilityUSA - NC, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.pngUbergrippenhttps://ugclimbing.com/jobs/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.pngUKC (jobs in UK)https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/organizationUnited Kingdom
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpgVertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebblehttps://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careersproductUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.pngVertical Worldhttps://verticalworld.com/facilityUSA - WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.pngVitalhttps://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NY, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.pngWalltopiahttps://careers.walltopia.com/productsBulgaria

New Climbing Holds & Volumes: November 2024

This month, routesetters can explore a fresh lineup of holds and volumes from 21 top companies, each crafted to inspire and offer unique solutions for gym or homewalls. With a mix of innovative shapes, textures and sizes, these new releases cater to gyms looking to enhance their route diversity and refresh climbing experiences for all levels. BRANDS INCLUDED BELOW: 360 – Atomik – Binary – Cornerstone – Crux AgarrasEnix – EP ClimbingEuroholds  – FitHito – KilterMotifOcelot – OlioPolytalonRubberSecret – Teknik – Urban PlastixVice – VirginGrip
Atomik Climbing Holds

ATOMIK

New from Atomik Climbing Holds: Adjustable System Footholds (Bolt-On) (Set of 2)Adjustable System Footholds (Bolt-on)(Set of 6)


BINARY

New from Binary Climbing: Strato Spheres – Full Line


CORNERSTONE

New from Cornerstone Climbing Community: Akros 2xlAkros mediumAkros smallAkros xsmall


EP CLIMBING

New from EP Climbing: 200 Hold Home Wall Package60 Hold Home Wall Package150 Hold Home Wall Package


HITO

New from Hito Climbing: Smile FamilySmile XXL2Smile XL3Smile L1Smile S1 Feet North American Distribution by: Solostile Climbing Lab


KILTER

New from Kilter Grips: VTF Comp Pack #3


MOTIF

New from Motif: Motif Fiber Dual Tex Full LineDT-78 Full Line North American Distribution by: Bold Climbing


OLIO

New from Olio: Gumdrops Dual TexGumdrops PU North American Distribution by: Bold Climbing


POLYTALON

New from Polytalon: Melon Wood + Spax Bow


RUBBER

New from Rubber: Sandstone – Full Line North American Distribution by: Bold Climbing


TEKNIK

New from Teknik Handholds: SiderailsElytra


URBAN PLASTIX

New from Urban Plastix: VTF UP Comp Pack #2


VIRGIN GRIP

New from Virgin Grip: Fighters No-Texture SPACE EditionUFO set A1-B3UFO set C1-D3UFO Small JugsUFO Crimps North American Distribution by: Solostile Climbing Lab


360HOLDS

New from 360Holds: Juggy Balls


CRUX AGARRAS

New from Crux Agarras: Dublê Glass


ENIX

New from Enix Climbing: Cyn Blocs


EUROHOLDS

New from Euroholds: Cutlass TP Dualtex Family


FIT

New from Fit: Full Moon (presale)


OCELOT

New from Ocelot Grips: Shade Wedges  


SECRET

New from Secret Holds: Comp XXL Thin Ledges


VICE GRIPS

New from Vice Grips: Pluto


Submit your latest shapes and products

Each month we publish a list of recent hold, volume, and training gear releases. Brands that self-report using this form will be included for free.

The Setter’s Archive: Classic Setting Tips for Modern Gyms

Welcome to the Setter’s Archive, where we explore the foundations of modern routesetting through classic wisdom. Here you’ll find essays from famous works in the routesetting field, or simply routesetting articles published years ago that still ring true today. We’re revisiting these stories in their original form because, while much has changed in the routesetting world in the last two decades, many core concepts remain the same. We hope these excerpts from setting experts around the industry help you keep reflecting, learning, and growing professionally. For more routesetting content, be sure to check out The Impact Driver podcast, Ask a Setter series, Truth Behind the Trade chapters, Behind the Wrench interviews, and other routesetting-related articles on CBJ.
Atomik Climbing Holds

Introduction by Holly Yu Tung Chen As the routesetting industry goes through growing pains, routesetters and routesetting organizations alike are grappling with the question of how we mentor and educate the next generation of plastic slingers. Unsurprisingly, Setting Tips, written by Scott Rennak in 2003as part of his Organizer Handbook for hosts of competitions in his American Bouldering Series, and shared with Louie Anderson while the pair collaborated on Anderson’s foundational The Fundamentals of Couresetting bookstill serves as a good starting point for routesetters two decades later, because the core of routesetting is all about the athletics of movement. Rennak was not only a proficient competition setter and organizer; he also had a short career as a commercial setter. He set at Climb Time of Cincinnati (and lived behind the slab wall like a true dirtbag) before he moved to the heart of the Front Range climbing community in Boulder, Colorado, where Rennak set at The Spot Boulder—one of the oldest bouldering gyms in the country—for opening day and beyond. While trends have come and gone, much of the advice Rennak gives here is still relevant today: not getting trapped into making all cruxes hand-cruxes; how to set moderate problems with bad holds; and why good variety helps even out the playing field. Whether you’re a veteran setter looking to reminisce about the good ol’ days, a novice looking to begin your routesetting education, or a setting educator looking to build a curriculum, Rennak’s 20-year-old Routesetting 101 exposition is a great place to start.
Rockwerx

SETTING TIPS

by Scott Rennak First and foremost, it must be said that setting is an art. It requires time and dedicationpractice makes perfect. Although setting is largely inspiration and visualization, the information covered here should help. Know yourself as a climber. Know your strengths and weaknesses. Know your ability level for different styles of movement; understanding your own abilities is possibly the most important factor to being an effective setter. Determine your personal setting style, and deliberately avoid it occasionally. [Like most setters], you probably tend toward a certain style of problem. It might be statics, dynamics, power-fests, technical nightmares, slopers, pockets, crimpswhatever. We all have strengths and weaknesses; just don’t make everyone conform entirely to yours. In gyms, keep an open mind and listen to your audience. Remember, you’re setting for them. Their input is important and should be heard. Take the time to listen and you might even learn something helpful. If you’re a comp setter, hang out for the comp. You know the sequences perfectly, but competitors might have trouble. And if they don’t figure out the moves, whose problems are going to get dissed? A little beta, fairly inserted, can help competitors send. And that’s what they’ve come to do. Climbing outside is the most valuable source of ideas for setting. Mother Nature has formed rock in infinite variety, and much is to be learned from her creations. If your future includes a lot of setting, do yourself and your customers a favor: travel as much as possible. While Mother Nature has infinite resources, you have only what you’ve seen, touched, and climbed on. Climbing on different rock—granite, sandstone, limestone—gives you different experiences to draw from.

GOOD, ENJOYABLE PROBLEMS

It’s a big bite to chew. Who really wants to define a good problem? Every problem is a good problem! If you don’t think so, you aren’t looking at it right. However, I’m going to take the user-friendly stance of a commercial climbing facility in describing a good problem. A good problem thinks of its audience. Everything about a good problem is mindful of the needs and abilities of the climbers that will be on it. This includes hold selection, body movements, height dependency and, of course, difficulty. A good problem builds better climbers. For many climbers, the entire purpose of indoor climbing is to get better. Setters are in the unique position of creating the tools to achieve this [objective]. Good problems improve strength, technique, route finding and precision. Crimping hard One climber’s favorite problem is another’s worst nightmare. Admittedly, it’s impossible to set problems that everyone likes. However, there are certain aspects of a problem that are, more or less, universally admired. An enjoyable problem has interesting moves. Creative movement is probably the hardest thing to learn, yet the most important. It’s a product of indoor and outdoor experiences and personal insights into climbing movement. Varied and thought-provoking body movements help make an enjoyable problem. An enjoyable problem is comfortable to climb. If it hurts, most people won’t like it. This means holds that tweak your tendons, moves that mangle your body, or falls that aren’t fun to take. While those [factors] are all important aspects of outdoor climbing (and should be represented indoors in moderation), they seldom are enjoyable to the general indoor crowd.

PLANNING AND EFFICIENCY

Several weeks before the comp, walk through the entire setting and forerunning process. Good planning can help prevent serious headaches the night before. Ask yourself: Where should the problems be concentrated? At what maximum density? How many problems, in total? [What about] their grade disbursement? What unique features should be used? How much time will be needed for preparations? How many setters, forerunners, wall-strippers? The gym will need to be split into rough sections before setting. Problems should be set within the section boundaries. By keeping problems within sections, you’ll maximize the number of people who can climb simultaneously. An early gym comp Make as many sections as possible, while leaving adequate room for creative problems. Try to conserve unique features like arêtes and dihedrals, and make good use of them. Mark the boundaries once you’re ready to start setting. Most sections shouldn’t have more than five overlapping problems. Be especially cautious about how the problems are set, avoiding situations where climbers in adjacent sections could fall into each other. Pre-set problems. Remove the holds after setting and create a map. Or leave the holds in place, but turn them. You can have numerous quality problems ready weeks before the comp, reducing the stress the night before. Strip bouldering-specific areas first, usually a couple days before the event. Get volunteers or other employees to strip the walls. The setters belong setting; that’s where they’re most useful. Do them a favor and arrange for others to strip the walls. Spread the difficulty all over the gym, with hard and easy everywhere. Help the climbers to circulate, and allow everyone to climb all the walls. Beginners want to get up the 45-degree walls too. Having plenty of easy problems is critical. Remember that these events are meant to be fun and inspiring for all levels of climbers. Tailor the grade distribution below to your own clientele.  
DIVISION OVERALL % MINIMUM #
Recreational 20% 7
Intermediate 20% 7
Advanced 40% 14
Open 20% 7
There are two principal schools of thought concerning setting efficiency: painstakingly work out the subtlety of every move to perfection, or toss something up that’s fun but might not work exactly how you’d like. Neither is wrong—different circumstances call for both [methods]. For high-end competitions, and high-end problems, being well thought-out and working perfectly is essential. However, for most comps and general gym setting, the time required to achieve this [intricacy] is unavailable. Problems should be properly marked, labeled and graded no later than one hour before competitors arrive. Old holds before a set

HOLD SELECTION

There is no formula for choosing holds. Enough variation in climbing movements prevents any standardized sizing. However, several factors dictate what usability is needed:
  • Difficulty of the problem
  • Surface angle of the wall
  • Orientation on the wall
Handhold usability combines its size and positivity. A half-pad incut and a three-pad sloper might be similarly useable. Set some easy problems with bad holds; help beginners learn to use them. Take weight off bad handholds with large feet; relieve bad footholds with generous hands. Knee-bars, heel-hooks or the plain old big-honking-jug-foot can make miserable handholds feel great. Opposition moves make tiny edges and smears more tolerable. Set some hard problems with good holds. Hard problems do not necessitate tweakers; give advanced climbers a break. Use bad (or non-existent) footholds to make large handholds feel worse. Turn big holds into underclings, dyno to them and force climbers to match all over them. Choose holds that force what you want, no more. Extra features on a hold means extra options. Multi-directional holds and large matching holds give competitors ways around your sequence. Use screw-ons to make the most of your wall. Screw-on jibs are great for tiny, realistic feet. Larger screw-ons are good for making pinches and slots. Screw-ons aren’t limited by t-nut placements, so they’re inherently better for creating movements exactly the way you want. Be careful when using large, high-profile holds. They shouldn’t obstruct other problems. Screwing in a hold

VARIETY, STYLE AND CONSISTENCY

Good variety within a gym or comp is essential, so mix it up. Customers and competitors come to be challenged and to send. They bring their own skills, which may be drastically different than your own. A good setter puts up problems for everybody. A problem’s style is reflected within its crux(es). These, in turn, create the overall effect of the problem. Ask what makes the problem hard: Does it require power, endurance, or good technique? The word technical gets thrown around a lot when setting. What is it for a problem to be technical? Answer: to require good route reading and creative use of the body. A technical problem requires knowledge and proficiency in movement and the ability to decipher sequences. Watch the flow of difficulty throughout a problem. Indoor problems are normally internally consistent (cruxes tend to be within a few grades of the rest of the moves). Early cruxes, while possibly realistic, leave us deflated for the finish—it’s best to spread the difficulty out. Problems that continually get harder, or have several successive cruxes, are perfect for weeding out competitors. Avoid good rests in boulder problems for comps—competitors will hang and shake versus trying, falling and letting the next person go. Good variety includes:
  • Power, endurance and power-endurance problems
  • Obvious and devious problems
  • Static and dynamic problems
  • Smooth, comfortable problems and awkward, realistic problems
  • Hard slabs and easy overhangs
  • Underclings, gastons, and sidepulls
  • Slopers, crimpers, pockets and pinches
  • Big right-hand moves and big left-hand moves
  • One-move-wonders and enduro-fests
  • Sit-starts and jump-starts
Each individual problem can include much of the above, or little. Theme problems (e.g. pocket or gaston problems) reward climbers’ strengths, isolate their weaknesses, and are great to have in moderation. Don’t get trapped into making all cruxes hand-cruxes. Remember, hands and feet working together determine a move’s difficulty. Use evil smears, tiny edges and scummy heel-hooks as cruxes too. Good variety evens the playing field. It demands a climber to be well-rounded to excel. At competitions, this [even playing field] is the goal. Ensure a fair fight; set good variety. Dynoing for a hold

HEIGHT DEPENDENCY

“I tried, but I just couldn’t reach the next hold.” We’ve all heard and probably said this [sentence]. Outdoors, it means turn it on or find a new problem. Indoors, there are many implications. Luckily, we have the opportunity to prevent heightdependent indoor problems, should we want to. Most problems should not be height-dependent, to make them fun for everybody. Especially with the growing number of youth [climbers] coming to gyms, it’s financially unwise to beat them up with reaches. However, if everything goes for kids, what’s left to challenge the rest of us? Some problems should be height-dependent. I might get [ridiculed] for saying that statement. Don’t get me wrong, we all want [young climbers] to send. We also want them to appreciate problems they can’t do. If you can’t get away with having a few heightdependant problems, offer alternative holds for Juniors and give them boosts to high starts. The ignored cousin of the reach, the scrunch is equally disabling. We normally don’t worry much about tall climbers; things always seem easier for them. Abundant in the form of low traverses and butt-dragging sit-starts, scrunchy problems should not be overdone. Several distances to keep in mind, any one of which can cause height dependency:
  •     Hand-to-hand
  •     Hand-to-foot
  •     Foot-to-foot
Height dependency in climbing Prevent height-dependent problems with additional feet. Place extra feet high, low or to the side, where only tall or short climbers will use them. Make long moves easier with high feet, low starts easier with wide feet. Occasionally, extra footholds become hands for the small-fingered; we all know that local 45-pounder who monos bolt-holes. Height-dependent problems shouldn’t decide winners at comps. Therefore, for every height-dependent problem, set several others at the same grade that aren’t. With enough carefully set alternatives, even the most self-righteous competitor can’t argue.

FORCING MOVES

“Hey, that’s not how it goes!” Setters hate it; there’s seemingly always another way to do a problem, a testament to the variety in abilities among climbers. However, skipping sequences is often preventable. Before grabbing the wrenches and attacking the holds, question the necessity of a change. Often good problems (indoors and outdoors) are done with alternate sequences. Given that the different methods are similar in difficulty, does their difference actually matter? One person’s easiest way up is sometimes another’s hardest. If the sequences require contrasting techniques, more variations make the problem more accessible. Hand-foot match Every hold on a problem provides an option, sometimes several. Too many holds can mean too many options. It’s generally not an issue with hands; most setters don’t put extra handholds on a problem. Many do, however, include superfluous footholds. Extra feet, while often increasing your problem’s overall sendability, reduce the chance competitors will use your sequence. Only holds needed for a send should be on the wall (by people of differing heights, of course). Avoid unnecessary multi-directional holds and holds large enough to match. Make your sequence the easiest way up (the easiest to those for whom the problem is intended). If another sequence or way to grip a hold is possible, try it: back-step vs. toeing-in; gaston instead of crossing-through. Most problems can go differently, but at vastly different grades. If the alternate [way up] is harder, you’re okay; easier, and it’s time to grab the wrenches and tweak. Climbers like to jump. They will, and right past your moves if you let them. Never underestimate the airtime of a psyched-up climber. Especially watch problems that cross back over (above) themselves. Where dynos are possible, put the feet low or to the side. The dyno becomes more awkward, and less likely.

LABELING PROBLEMS

Mark all holds and features clearly. Nothing causes as much mayhem as poorly labeled problems. All natural features should be labeled “in” or “out”. Special instructions (e.g., sit-down start, any feet, arête is in) should be noted clearly at the start of the problem. Beginning and ending holds should be designated. Labels need to be seen from all vantage points on a problem. Handholds used later as feet need to be visible from the higher position. Use two labels if necessary. Avoid situations where the label will be worn off with traffic. Foothold labels especially are prone to being rubbed off. Labels that wear off are great fuel for picky climbers. Mark problems that overlap with obviously different colors (not hard with so many colors available). Also, using sponsor stickers as problem markers adds spice to the appearance, and gives recognition to your supporters. For comps, every problem should be labeled with its number and total point value. The labels should be written in large, clear print with a brightcolored marker. Taped route grades

FORERUNNING

Forerunning consists of attempting, critiquing, altering and grading a problem. The focus is improvement; a well-forerun problem achieves the desired movement at the desired grade. Grades represent a problem’s consensus difficulty, ideally; [in other words], how hard it is for a climber of average height and weight, with average flexibility, finger strength, and technique. For anyone else, it could feel vastly different. Several people, with different styles and strengths, should forerun each problem. It’s hard to grade problems well below your ability. Continually think about the effort needed to grab onto and move between the holds. Don’t underestimate your finger strength, power or technique. Consider the appropriateness of moves. Sure, that rose-move is rad, but on a V0? Work out as many moves as you can on projects. Put a jug ladder nearby to avoid working it ground-up. Think carefully about every move and every stance. After working it, compare it to the other hard problems. Try to rank them in order of difficulty, and then guesstimate the grades. While the V-system is widely used, its interpretation varies. One region’s V8 is another’s V6. No matterthe real deal is to have internal consistency. Two problems given the same grade in a gym should be the same difficulty. At competitions, achieving consistency is like pulling teeth. With limited time and energy, it’s difficult to accurately grade everything. Fresh forerunners, who come in later in the setting process, can help that consistency happen.
V-SCALE YDS ABS POINTS
V0- 5.0 to 5.8 10
V0 5.9 15
V0+ 5.10- 20
V1 5.10+ 30
V2 5.11- 40
V3 5.11+ 60
V4 5.12- 80
V5 5.12 120
V6 5.12+ 160
V7 5.13- 240
V8 5.13 320
V9 5.13+ 480
V10 5.14- 640
This scale has proven to split the ability levels well. To minimize ties, try to give each problem a different grade. For example, two easy V4s might get 74pts and 76pts. Long or high problems should be a little overrated to compensate for the extra energy and attention they require. Every move of every problem should be forerun in competitions. Too many comp problems never get sent, or are improperly graded, because of assumptions. It may not be necessary to actually do a move to educate a guess about its feasibility and relative grade. However, guessing how a move will go, without trying it, is unacceptable. Climbing hard in the gym

USA Climbing Announces National Training Center Partnership With Momentum

Momentum Sandy exterior
Following a request for interest, and after narrowing down the list of candidates to two climbing gym operators, USA Climbing recently chose to partner with Momentum—which launched its first location in Utah (pictured) in 2007 and will soon open its fourth facility in the state—for USAC’s new National Training Center project in Salt Lake City. (Photo of Momentum Sandy by Climbing Business Journal, courtesy of Momentum)
[Editor’s Note: This story has been updated from the original piece published on January 2.] In response to the pushback around USA Climbing’s plans to create a new National Training Center, the organization’s board of directors recently announced a decision to partner with climbing gym operator Momentum. If all goes according to plan, the eventual result of the partnership will be the construction of a state-of-the-art facility in Salt Lake City, which will serve as the headquarters of USA Climbing and a host-site for the national governing body’s various competitions and training initiatives. “The decision [to partner with Momentum] comes after months of dialogue between USA Climbing and the gym community, including discussions led by USA Climbing’s Gym Partner Task Force; the addition of a gym operator on the USA Climbing Board of Directors; the inclusion of gym partners in strategic planning; and the establishment of a joint Climbing Wall Association/USA Climbing committee, which continues to meet regularly to advance shared priorities,” stated a press release about the partnership. Rumors about USA Climbing’s proposed National Training Center were prevalent within the industry for several years. However, dialogue and dissension picked up nearly one year ago, when USA Climbing formally and publicly announced that it was going forward with its plans for a new facility. Many commercial climbing gym owners and operators immediately expressed opposition to the concept, in part because of concerns that a commercial component to the training center (i.e., allowing customers who were not associated with, or employed by, USA Climbing to climb at the facility) might draw customers away from preexisting Salt Lake City climbing gyms. Some climbing gym owners around the United States also expressed concerns that the operation and maintenance of a more elaborate training facility could potentially draw USA Climbing’s focus and resources away from other national aims. In resultant pushback over the next months, many climbing gym owners signed a letter of protest, and competition scheduling was disrupted. At one point, USA Climbing announced a 45-day pause in the National Training Center’s creation, and a task force was enacted by USA Climbing to garner sentiments and feedback from climbing gym operators around the country. “One of the common themes of the feedback is confusion about what exactly is being proposed—from the square footage of the facility, to how much it will cost to build, to the business model that is being used to confirm its financial viability,” a report from USA Climbing’s aforementioned task force stated in March.
Elevate Climbing Walls
With those events forming the backdrop, USA Climbing announced in April that rather than create a new training center on its own, it was seeking a partnership with an “experienced climbing gym operator” for the new National Training Center project. The following month, in May, a committee of USA Climbing staff, board members and athletes recommended two potential climbing gym operators—Momentum and Touchstone—for the partnership. The press release above mentioned that USA Climbing’s decision to partner with Momentum followed “extensive discussions, site visits, and modeling,” although further details weren’t provided around why USA Climbing chose to pursue a partnership with Momentum instead of Touchstone. Furthermore, the press release did not clarify whether a commercial gym component might be in the current iteration of the National Training Center’s plans. However, the press release did note that “the operating model will prioritize evaluating revenue sources beyond traditional membership models with a commitment to community access.” In the press release, USA Climbing’s President and CEO, Marc Norman, expressed excitement for the partnership with Momentum and called the National Training Center project “historic.” Momentum’s CEO, Jeff Pedersen, said the partnership is a form of uniting “to elevate competition climbing, and share its benefits with the greater climbing community.” More information about the events leading up to the partnership can be found in the CBJ articles below.

USA Climbing Now Seeks Partnership With “Experienced Climbing Gym Operator” to Get the New National Training Center Off the Ground

Published April 29, 2024
Another sketch of the planned National Training Center
In the latest development around the new National Training Center project, USA Climbing is now calling for “creative proposals from gym operators to develop, build, promote, and potentially operate” the facility. (Image from USA Climbing)
Several days ago, USA Climbing released a Request for Interest (RFI), a six-page document intended to garner attention from gym operators—specifically, gym operators that would be interested in “partnering with USA Climbing on how best to develop and operate the National Training Center.” In other words, USA Climbing—through the RFI—is seeking to collaborate with a preexisting gym operator for the development of the National Training Center. To that point, the public solicitation of a gym partner marks a formal evolution in the National Training Center’s development. (Plans for the National Training Center have been paused [see below] for months as a result of intense pushback from the gym community.)
Trango Holds Pardners
The RFI document, available in-full here, notes that “the identification of any potential partner through this RFI process does not guarantee project development or completion.” According to the RFI document, “An Evaluation Committee of USA Climbing staff, Board members, and external individuals—including those with gym construction and management expertise—will review all responses,” and the evaluation criteria are listed at the end of the document. A virtual information session for gym operators interested in submitting partnership proposals is taking place today (April 29), and a deadline for proposal submissions is set for May 10. Submissions must be emailed to NTC@usaclimbing.org and include a signed letter of intent, a proposal, a statement of financial stability, and other requirements listed in the RFI document.

National Training Center Plans Remain Paused; Task Force Releases Report—Latest Updates

Published March 29, 2024
Sketch of the planned National Training Center in SLC
USA Climbing’s development of a new National Training Center (pictured) continues to be on pause as the organization collects and considers feedback from its stakeholders, and a new report from USAC’s Gym Partner Task Force highlights some of the ongoing concerns gym operators have with the project. (Image from USA Climbing)
In the latest developments to the ongoing story about USA Climbing’s plans to construct a new National Training Center, USA Climbing’s Gym Partner Task Force recently released a report summarizing its findings of the past several weeks. The 7-page report culls together information garnered from an online survey, roundtable discussions with gym owners and operators, and other modes of outreach. Those various efforts to gather feedback—and the creation of the Task Force itself—came after many gym owners and operators around the country expressed significant concerns over USA Climbing’s ambitions to construct a new national training center in Salt Lake City with a commercial gym component. The Task Force’s new report, which is viewable here, notes that USA Climbing received 62 responses to its aforementioned online survey and had “direct conversations with approximately 25-30 individual gym owners/operators,” as well as five roundtable sessions attended by 30 participants. The report also notes that gym operators who were communicative in the feedback “generally expressed their support for USA Climbing,” particularly in matters of developing elite competition climbers and growing the sport of climbing. However, the report specifies that many gym owners and operators felt they were not consulted in the “scale and direction” of the Training Center’s plans—and remain concerned about the implication of a commercial component to a National Training Center facility. Of note is that 94% of the survey respondents did not indicate support of memberships available to the general public as a potential revenue source for the National Training Center, and the response was similar for day passes (90%). The report states: “One of the common themes of the feedback is confusion about what exactly is being proposed—from the square footage of the facility, to how much it will cost to build, to the business model that is being used to confirm its financial viability. Many have asked for clarity from [USA Climbing] about what are the documented ‘needs’ for a facility versus what are the ‘wants’ (e.g., ‘nice to haves’). Regardless of their level of support for the project, everyone indicated that they are looking for greater clarity and transparency about when and how the [USA Climbing] Board plans to make these decisions and better ongoing communication and engagement with its stakeholders about what it plans to do.”
Elevate Climbing Walls
Despite those lingering concerns, the Task Force’s report highlights a “fair amount of support” for a purpose-built (national) facility to host large-scale competitions—which has long been one of the intended roles of any new National Training Center. And, according to the report, the current pause in the development of the Training Center will remain in place as USA Climbing continues to “consider [the] candid and constructive feedback about the purpose and scope of the [National Training Center].” In an effort to garner feedback [unaffiliated with USA Climbing or its Task Force] and gauge current industry sentiment, CBJ reached out independently to several gym operators. Most responses and prevailing opinions hovered between frustration and resignation over the entire National Training Center saga. As one gym operator told CBJ, “I think there has been a fairly widespread loss of confidence that USA Climbing leadership will make any meaningful change in strategy…They are exploring alternative ways to fund their concept but…it seems they will likely fall back on the commercial concept if they can’t find an alternative. As most of us already assume, there is probably no way to permanently fund an event and training space this size without running it as a commercial facility. This makes the Task Force effort to collect feedback that has already been provided many times feel like lip service. I do appreciate the effort the Task Force has made, and I empathize with their position because they have been put in a difficult spot to try and collect feedback for how to use $15m in funding that has already been granted for a very specific vision.” Stay tuned for further updates to this story.

Video Roundtables To Be USA Climbing’s Newest Tools for Decreasing Training Center Pushback – Latest Updates

Published February 16, 2024
USA Climbing Gym Partner Task Force
USA Climbing is now planning a series of roundtable discussions with climbing gym owners to address concerns around the planned National Training Center in Salt Lake City. (Pictured: members of the USAC Gym Partner Task Force presenting in the video update)
In the latest update to the ongoing and far-reaching industry conversation about USA Climbing’s proposed new National Training Center, USA Climbing recently released a 15-minute YouTube video update from its “Gym Partner Task Force.” The video features members of the task force introducing themselves and addressing some of the exposition that led to the task force’s creation. The video is a precursor to what is being deemed Phase 2 of a process, with Phase 1 being the current gathering of feedback, objections and suggestions from gym owners and operators related to the proposed Training Center. The feedback is predominantly being collected online through USA Climbing’s National Training Center survey. “The purpose of our task force is to identify ways to rebuild trust with the owners and operators of gyms around the country—and we acknowledge that we are currently in a trust deficit with many of you,” task force member Steve Struthers states in the YouTube video’s opening.
OnSite
Later in the video, task force member Kyra Condie says, “We know that many of you are eager to move beyond surveys and engage in direct dialogue with us, and we’ve already had a lot of one-on-one conversations with gym owners since the task force has started—but we are really looking forward to hearing from more of you, and so we’re ready to deepen that engagement through a series of video roundtables.” The roundtables will run for approximately 90 minutes and be comprised of 10-12 gym owners—with specific topics being in focus for each session. USA Climbing explained to CBJ that gyms possessing a USA Climbing membership will be invited (via email) to participate in the roundtables. Completion of the aforementioned National Training Center survey will not be a prerequisite for roundtable inclusion. An email sent later by USA Climbing to a number of gym owners specified the following dates and times (in MT time zone) for upcoming roundtable discussions, while also offering the gyms an opportunity to pre-register:
  • Wednesday 2/21 from 10:30 a. to 12:00 pm
  • Friday 2/23 from 1:00 pm to 2:30 pm
  • Tuesday 2/27 from 3:00 pm to 4:30 pm
  • Wednesday 2/28 from 10:30 am to 12:00 pm
  • Thursday 2/29 from 1:00 pm to 2:30 pm
The email from USA Climbing also explained that the agenda for each roundtable will include a review of the results of the gym survey and an “interactive discussion of emerging ideas related to the proposed components of the [National Training Center] project—athlete development, event hosting, and community access.” Some time of each roundtable session will also be devoted to discussing the relationship between USA Climbing and gyms. “We are planning to do more engagement around this topic in the months ahead,” the email added. Stay tuned to CBJ for continuing coverage of this story.

Task Force Survey Does Little to Lessen Gyms’ Concerns About New National Training Center; Shocking Board of Directors Resignation

Published January 31, 2024
2022 USAC Youth Regionals at Mesa Rim North City
Gym owners around the country continued to express anger and frustration following USA Climbing’s recent task force survey regarding the planned National Training Center, and on Monday the lone gym representative on USAC’s Board of Directors, Alice Kao, resigned. (Pictured: a USAC Youth Regionals Lead/Top Rope event held at Mesa Rim North City in 2022; photo by Jason Chang @theshortbeta)
This week marks the official halfway point of USA Climbing’s self-imposed 45-day pause on plans to develop a new National Training Center. Yet, there is still anger and frustration among gym owners as to the lack of communication from USA Climbing during the pause. There are also growing doubts about the effectiveness of a task force, which was put in place by USA Climbing to gather feedback from gym owners about the National Training Center’s development. “We were really optimistic when we heard about the task force,” Jeffery Bowling, Creative and Business Development Director at the Touchstone gyms, told CBJ. “Unfortunately, the only communication from the task force is the survey they sent out [January 25].” The online survey referenced by Bowling invites climbing gyms to offer feedback on the National Training Center, and USA Climbing has indicated that a similar survey will soon be open to feedback from competitors, parents and coaches. But Bowling feels that many aspects of USA Climbing’s proposed National Training Center—such as its commercial component, as well as the center’s ability to host events—have already been decided, at least according to the verbiage of the survey. “It seems like the task force is already working in a framework for the [National Training Center] that many of us fundamentally oppose,” Bowling elaborated, speaking on behalf of multiple gym owners. “It was my hope that the task force would take a much bigger picture view of this project and see how it could work for all stakeholders. Instead it seems to be asking us to accept that many aspects of this project are already set in stone and are not open for discussion.” Other gym owners and operators feel similarly. Wes Shih, co-founder of Sender One, explained that the task force feels like merely a veneer, asking for feedback but in a manner that forces only positive responses. In that framework, Shih detects a level of bias that makes the task force’s efforts feel incomplete at best and disingenuous at worst, in his opinion.
Trango Holds Pardners
Dustin Buckthal, CEO/CFO of The Front, told CBJ, “Our perception is that USAC is intent on forming a counter-coalition to defend its existing commercial-based plans, rather than genuinely considering any alternative paths to a National Training Center. The initial engagement from the much-awaited task force was merely an online survey. This survey was seemingly designed to support their predetermined agenda rather than to sincerely gather diverse opinions or collect insights that could contribute to alternative visions for a National Training Center.” Buckthal added, “So far, this disjointed process hasn’t been the dialogue and transparency we had hoped for when USAC promised it.” Adding to frustrations with USA Climbing’s task force survey was a public statement from a task force member last week, which read: The Gym Partner Task Force looks forward to continued opportunities to thoughtfully address the many perspectives regarding the Training Center, this Task Force’s work, and the broader engagement between USAC and its gym partners. The Task Force is currently communicating directly with USA Climbing’s gym partners to collect feedback, build connections, and engage those partners in the development of this project’s vision. “That all sounds very nice and responsive,” Jon Lachelt, co-founder and general manager of Ascent Studio, said to CBJ about the statement. “How the ‘engage those partners in the development of this project’s vision’ actually plays out is the key to our contention with USA Climbing. The ‘vision’ seems already to have been set.” Lachelt added, “The vision that has already been presented will by definition have the [National Training Center] in direct competition with their supposedly ‘partner’ gyms. It’s hard to believe that USA Climbing will be able to correct this misstep in such a way that satisfies their gym partners and still fulfills USA Climbing’s commitments to the legislative stakeholders.” When pressed for more information regarding that statement from the task force, USA Climbing explained that the task force has thus far had conversations with “about 10 gym partners,” and through the survey received “more than 40 responses.” Those responses will be analyzed this week. “We recognize the urgency that many gym partners are feeling around this project,” Steve Struthers, one of the members of the task force, told CBJ. “Our focus, as volunteers with additional Board and non-USAC responsibilities, has been on setting up a plan for gym partner engagement, a communication of that plan to the gym partner community, and the development of our initial [National Training Center] survey.”
OnSite
In another significant development, Alice Kao, CEO of the aforementioned Sender One, resigned from the USA Climbing Board of Directors on January 29. In a letter of resignation, Kao wrote, “While I started my tenure with hope and optimism, I have now lost all confidence in this Board’s ability to lead USA Climbing and steward competition climbing in the way this sport deserves.” Kao was the only member of USA Climbing’s Board with direct ties to the ownership of a climbing gym, and she was also a previous recipient of the ‘Small Business’ Person of the Year award from the U.S. Small Business Administration. At a representative level, her exit from the Board puts additional figurative distance between USA Climbing and the commercial operation of gyms—a disconnect that lies at the heart of many gyms’ objections to the National Training Center. Further in her resignation letter, Kao condemned USA Climbing and its Board of Directors for failing to uphold its core values, including Integrity and Teamwork, as well as Inspiration and Excellence. “This Board has made ongoing decisions to steer financial and operational resources away from youth climbing, which provides USA Climbing most of its annual budget,” Kao explained. “This disproportionate focus toward the elite levels of our sport needs to change. This Board has capitalized on the love so many constituencies have for this sport and for their own communities while at the same time denying them a voice in decision making.” The USA Climbing Board of Directors responded to Kao’s resignation with their own statement after CBJ reached out. They pushed back on Kao’s comments, and listed a variety of current and future initiatives to demonstrate they are “continuing to engage our many stakeholders to solicit advice, feedback, and to grow the sport we love for years to come.” Additionally, they signaled intent to fill the vacant Board position with a gym owner. As illustrated in Kao’s letter, increasing frustrations from gym owners are evolving into larger, more substantive mistrust of USA Climbing. When asked how the National Training Center controversy has affected his gym’s relationship with USA Climbing, Jon Lachelt of Ascent Studio said, “Unsure at this point. Unrelated to this project, our gym does not have any USA Climbing comps on our calendar for 2024 yet, so we haven’t had to make any specific decisions about hosting a comp for [USA Climbing]. That said, it’s certainly been in our consciousness as we plan for the fall.” Lachelt’s comments came just a week after Ian McIntosh, CEO of the Mesa Rim gyms, chose to forgo the tentative hosting of a Divisional Championship youth competition in objection to the National Training Center’s proposed commercial gym component. Stay tuned to CBJ for continuing coverage of this story.

National Training Center Pushback Affects Comp Schedule and Multi-Million-Dollar Loan for The Front

Published January 25, 2024
Preparing to set routes at The Front SLC
A $2 million loan to The Front for a sizable expansion project in Salt Lake City has been put on pause, amid ongoing pushback around USA Climbing’s plans for a new National Training Center in the area. (Photo by Hayden Hulsey of The Front’s South Main location, courtesy of Proxy Climbing)
The 45-day pause that effectively put USA Climbing’s ambitious plans for a new National Training Center on hold has been in place for over two weeks. But the pause has not stopped the hot-button issue of the Training Center’s development from continuing to have ramifications and reverberations in multiple areas of the climbing industry. For instance, as reported last week by BuildingSaltLake.com, a director from the Salt Lake City Redevelopment Agency (SLCRA) notified CEO/CFO of The Front, Dustin Buckthal, that a previously approved $2 million expansion loan for The Front was being paused. The move was noteworthy because SLCRDA is also enwrapped in the lease procedures for the aforementioned USA Climbing Training Center in Salt Lake City—a plan that Buckthal publicly opposed, particularly due to the Training Center’s proposed commercial gym (for-profit) component. “Your opposition to the [National Training Center] project has expanded from a narrow opposition to the commercial gym component to opposing the project wholesale,” a missive to Buckthal from the SLCRA stated. Buckthal went on record saying that he does not, in fact, oppose the wholesale concept of a new national Training Center, but feels that a commercial component of a new Training Center would be in direct competition with the commercial operations of The Front, which is also based in Salt Lake City. In a January 19 message to USA Climbing’s gym partners, USAC CEO Marc Norman affirmed that the loan pause “was a decision solely made by the [Salt Lake City Redevelopment Agency]…”
OnSite
Reverberations are also being felt outside of Salt Lake City. Mesa Rim, which operates gyms in Texas, Nevada and California, was “penciled in” as the host for an upcoming Divisional Championship—but recently chose to forgo any such hosting duties in its facilities. Ian McIntosh, Mesa Rim’s CEO, was one of the many gym owners who publicly opposed the new Training Center’s commercial gym component earlier this month. McIntosh told CBJ that he is yet to see any “meaningful engagement or clear change in strategy” by USA Climbing. “We are not hosting any competitions that were not already under contract at this time,” McIntosh explained. “I am deeply committed to supporting youth climbing and it saddens me that USA Climbing is moving in a direction that is not in the best interest of 99 percent of youth climbers in this country. My goal in taking a stand on this issue is in large part to ensure that all youth climbers get the support they need from USA Climbing in the future.” A USA Climbing task force was created to gather feedback from gym owners amid the 45-day pause in the Training Center’s development. In his January 19 message, Norman indicated the task force will be reaching out to USAC’s gym partners this week. Stay tuned to CBJ for further updates as the 45-day pause continues.

USA Climbing’s Plans for a New National Training Center Paused Amid Protests from Gym Owners—Latest Updates

Published January 9, 2024
2023 Youth Nationals scene by Daniel Gajda
USA Climbing’s plan for a new National Training Center in Salt Lake City has been paused for at least 45 days while a task force gathers stakeholder feedback. (Photo of the 2023 USAC Youth National Championships in Salt Lake City, courtesy of USAC, photo by Daniel Gajda)
Talks between gym owners and USA Climbing—pertaining to USA Climbing’s plans for a new Training Center in Salt Lake City—have continued this week. Development of the Training Center remains a hot-button issue. Most recently, on January 9, USA Climbing’s board of directors and the Redevelopment Agency of Salt Lake City—commonly known as SLCRDA—agreed “to pause the process for securing a ground lease for a National Training Center site,” according to a USA Climbing letter.
Atomik Climbing Holds
The pause will remain in place for at least 45 days as discussions continue between all relevant parties. As part of the ongoing dialogue, USA Climbing also announced the creation of a task force to “gather, analyze, and assess valuable feedback from gym owners…[and] explore ways to build and rebuild connections and trust between USAC and its core partners.” Another primary goal of the creation of the task force is to engage gym owners in the ongoing development of a new training center. The five members of the task force are: Maureen Beck, Kyra Condie, Laura Domoto, Deana Labriola, and Steve Struthers. That recent update comes on the heels of a group call hosted by Climbing Wall Association on January 4, during which a number of gym owners expressed their ongoing concerns about the Training Center—and, in particular, expounded on their objections to a would-be commercial gym component of the Training Center. USA Climbing’s Board of Directors hosted a meeting for gym owners that same day, January 4.

Gyms Unify in Protest of USA Climbing’s Plan for a New National Training Center

Published January 2, 2024
2023 USAC National Team Trials at Mesa Rim Austin
USA Climbing’s plan for a new National Training Center in Salt Lake City has been under scrutiny by gym operators around the country. (Photo of the 2023 USAC National Team Trials at Mesa Rim Austin, courtesy of Mesa Rim)
USA Climbing’s National Training Center development project, which has been in the works for some time, has recently received intense pushback from a number of prominent climbing gyms. Specifically, many gym owners have expressed increased displeasure and concern that a commercial gym portion of the new National Training Center will draw customers away from preexisting commercial climbing gyms—particularly those gyms in the Salt Lake City area where the National Training Center will reside. Some climbing gym owners also feel that the commercial gym portion of the National Training Center could potentially monopolize the hosting of large-scale American climbing competitions. And behind these concerns is a belief that USAC has been proceeding with the National Training Center development without close enough consultation with gym owners, a key stakeholder group known to have been fundamental to the organization’s solvency and growth over the years. One of the first formal expressions of such concerns came on December 10, when several executives at The Front Climbing Club (CEO Dustin Buckthal, Chief of Staff Justin Wyse, and Director of Routesetting Eddie Morillas) collectively authored a letter to USA Climbing declaring opposition to the National Training Center’s commercial climbing gym component. “The Front has been a strong supporter of USAC events, staff, and athletes for many years, but we have consistently communicated our opposition to USAC opening a commercial climbing gym in Salt Lake,” the letter stated, adding, “…a publicly funded, directly competing commercial climbing gym mere blocks from established, local gyms is not in line with USAC’s  mission or recognition of ‘the critical role that climbing gyms play in our organization.’” The letter stressed that The Front does support the need for a larger, dedicated training space for the USA National Team athletes—but would suspend USA Climbing events/competitions at The Front gyms “until we have assurances that the project will be in line with USAC’s mission and not a direct threat to our business.”
OnSite
Further developments after that initial letter from The Front included a Zoom call with Climbing Wall Association representatives and multiple gym owners. And on December 21, USA Climbing President and CEO Marc Norman responded to the mounting concerns with a letter of his own. Norman stated, “Our vision for the [National Training Center] is not that of a typical commercial climbing gym. The [National Training Center] will be different, it is not solely focused on generating revenue. It will be purpose built to host major National and International events with spectator capacities ranging from 1000+ in the indoor comp spaces to 3500+ in the outdoor comp spaces. It will provide high-performance athletes with dedicated training, locker rooms, and recovery spaces—not only for elite adult athletes, but also paraclimbing athletes with an accessibility focus throughout.” Norman’s letter also explained that the National Training Center would exist and operate as an LLC separate from the USA Climbing governing body organization—and that “income generated from the [National Training Center] will be reinvested into the sport nationwide.” More recently, on December 28, another letter was collectively written and signed by operators and owners representing 75 gym locations in total—including Robyn Raboutou of ABC Kids Climbing, Jon Lachelt of Ascent Studio, Ian Anderson of Climb So Ill, Jon Shepard of First Ascent, Jason Haas of G1, Ian McIntosh of Mesa Rim, Wes Shih of Sender One, Kristin Horowitz of The Pad, Jeffery Bowling of Touchstone, and others. “To be abundantly clear: We oppose the USA Climbing gym project as currently envisioned,” the recent letter stated. “We cannot and do not support a poorly vetted, unilaterally executed decision by USA Climbing to radically shift its direction from its core mission to undertake a commercial endeavor that conflicts with USA Climbing’s own non-profit structure, history of grassroots development of competition climbing, and cooperation with the national commercial climbing gym community.”
OnSite
That recent letter by myriad gym operators also elucidated gyms’ concerns related to “a growing inability of USA Climbing leadership to manage its operations, communicate with and serve its constituents, and carry out its core mission and primary responsibilities – all with an absence of  accountability.” The situation remains ongoing, with those aforementioned gym operators requesting that USA Climbing pause the National Training Center development project for the time being. According to the December 28 letter, “there is currently a USA Climbing Board meeting scheduled for January 3rd, where the Board plans to discuss and approve what USA Climbing plans to present to the Salt Lake City Redevelopment Agency on January 9th for the purpose of receiving a site for the gym project.” Stay tuned to CBJ for updates and further coverage of this story.

Climb Insider: setter stuff, an access legend

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Just a few thoughts

Routesetters, we’ve got you this week. A podcast, a webinar, some tips, some inspiration. And also – thank you setters, you voted and the results are in – Grip List Awards were just announced! A few new awards plus some year-after-year favorites. Beyond the setting stuff some interesting data and analysis from UK and France, a discussion of a new FTC rule, and a salute to the godfather of US crag access. See The Freshest Job Posts Here

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Manage Coaching at Portland Rock Gym – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 November 7

portland rock gym header image CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Coaching Manager Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR “The Coaching Manager at PRG will play a pivotal role in driving the competitive success and growth of both youth and adult climbing teams. This position is responsible for providing exceptional customer service, engagement, and connection, as well as introducing individuals to climbing and supporting their lifelong competitive climbing journey in a healthy, sustainable, and enjoyable manner. Collaborating closely with the Programs Director and Programs Manager, setting team, and other coaching staff, the Coaching Manager will build and facilitate team programs and practices aimed at supporting climbers in their athletic development and competitive aspirations. This role is ideal for a coach who is passionate about cultivating top-tier talent, pushing athletes to reach their highest potential, and achieving outstanding results in competitive climbing.”
Trango Holds Pardners

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

“How To Deal With an Angry Customer” Interview Question By Indeed Editorial Team “Considering how you might react to a frustrated customer can help you develop an accurate response. Authentically answering can help you display genuine emotion, which shows employers you’re passionate about helping others. It also lets you identify the unique value you bring to this scenario. For example, you might recognize your ability to diffuse tension by speaking concisely or maintaining confidence without being perceived as arrogance, helping you regulate the conversation.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Head Routesetter at Richmond Olympic Oval Richmond, BC FT – routesetter
Assistant Coach at Dogpatch Boulders San Francisco, CA FT – coach
Facilities Associate at Movement Sunnyvale, CA FT – manufacturing
Head Routesetter at The Rock Club New Rochelle, NY FT – routesetter
Coaching Manager at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – coach, instructor, manager
Operations Staff at Tomo Bouldering Club Portland, OR PT – front desk
Site Manager at The Gravity Vault Lehigh Valley, PA FT – manager
Routesetter at The Climb Nashville, TN FT – routesetter
Gym Manager at The Front Millcreek, UT FT – manager
Head Coach at Westminster University Salt Lake City, UT FT – coach
Routesetter at Half Moon Seattle, WA PT – routesetter

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

NAMETYPELOCATION
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
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