13 pitches – Difficulty: 7b, mandatory 6c+, AI5, RS3+
LECCO — July 2026 — A remarkable new route has been established on the East Pillar of Siula Grande (6,344 m), one of the iconic peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash in the Peruvian Andes. Between 9 and 12 July, Italian alpinists Mattia Sandionigi, Pietro Saggiante, both members of Gruppo Alpinistico Gamma Lecco, together with Sandro Maranetto, completed the first ascent of a new route of more than 700 metres, named “Via Gamma – Attraverso la Trucha” (“Gamma Route – Through the Trout”).
The new line follows the elegant East Pillar and embodies modern high-altitude alpine climbing, combining free rock climbing, mixed terrain and steep ice. The overall grade is 7b, with mandatory 6c+, AI5 and RS3+.
The ascent is the result of a self-supported expedition carried out in pure alpine style, requiring careful assessment of mountain conditions and a four-day push: one day for the approach and three consecutive days on the wall.
Acclimatization and Conditions
Before heading to the Huayhuash range, the team completed its acclimatization on Nevado Vallunaraju (5,700 m) in the Cordillera Blanca, near Huaraz. They then reached Siula Grande Base Camp after a six-hour approach into one of the most remote and spectacular areas of the Peruvian Andes.
Weather conditions proved decisive throughout the expedition. After an initial period of stable weather and excellent climbing conditions, a series of storms deposited fresh snow and ice, particularly on the upper sections of the face.
The accumulation of unconsolidated snow and the resulting increase in objective hazard led the team to abandon their attempt on the main summit of Siula Grande, choosing instead to finish the climb on the summit of the East Pillar. The decision was driven entirely by safety considerations and remained fully consistent with the primary objective of the expedition: establishing a new route on the magnificent East Pillar.
Route Information
Via Gamma – Attraverso la Trucha
• Mountain: Siula Grande (6,344 m)
• Face: East Pillar
• Range: Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru
• First ascent: 9–12 July 2026
• First ascent team: Mattia Sandionigi, Pietro Saggiante, Sandro Maranetto
• Length: More than 700 m
• Pitches: 13
• Grade: 7b (mandatory 6c+), AI5, RS3+
• Style: Alpine style, ground-up first ascent
The route follows a logical and elegant line up the pillar, linking crack systems, limestone slabs and steep ice runnels in a continuous progression to the top of the formation.
Lead climbing duties were shared throughout the ascent. Pietro Saggiante led the most technically demanding rock pitches, while Sandro Maranetto took the lead on the hardest ice and mixed sections. Mattia Sandionigi played a key role in the overall progression and management of the climb, contributing throughout an ascent that demanded a high level of logistical organization and alpine commitment.
One of the defining moments of the climb came during the second bivouac, spent on a narrow ledge too small to pitch a tent. The team passed the night sitting upright, enduring basic but manageable conditions thanks to relatively mild temperatures.
At 4:30 p.m. on 11 July, the climbers reached the summit of the East Pillar, completing the first ascent of the route. The descent was made entirely by abseil, with the final rappels completed during the night.
A Legendary Alpine Setting
Siula Grande occupies a unique place in the history of mountaineering. The mountain is famously associated with Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, whose dramatic 1985 survival story was immortalized in the bestselling book Touching the Void.
Although the new route lies on a different side of the mountain from the events described in the book, the team experienced the same uncompromising and unpredictable nature of high-altitude Andean climbing. On the final day of the ascent, the climbers witnessed the collapse of a massive hanging serac above the glacier below—a section they had crossed several times during the expedition.
The Meaning Behind the Name
The name “Via Gamma” pays tribute to Gruppo Alpinistico Gamma Lecco, an association that has been a cornerstone of Lecco’s climbing tradition for more than fifty years.
The subtitle “Attraverso la Trucha” (“Through the Trout”) refers to the many trout caught by the team in the lakes beneath the wall during the expedition, while also serving as a clear homage to the legendary Dolomite route “Attraverso il Pesce” (“Through the Fish”) on the Marmolada.
An Important Achievement for Lecco Mountaineering
The expedition concluded with the team’s return to Italy on 18 July, ten days ahead of schedule.
The opening of Via Gamma adds a technically significant new route to one of the most prestigious peaks in the Andes and represents an important achievement for Gruppo Alpinistico Gamma Lecco and the long-standing mountaineering tradition of the Lecco area.
The ascent reflects an approach to alpinism based on self-reliance, sound decision-making, adaptability to changing mountain conditions and a commitment to exploration—qualities that continue to define the finest modern first ascents in the world’s high mountains.
Acknowledgements
The team would like to thank all of the expedition’s sponsors for their invaluable technical and financial support:
• CAMP S.p.A.
• Rock Experience
• Ande Outdoor
• LYO Food
• UOEI Lecco
• Gruppo Acinque
• Beppe Impianti Elettrici
• Lagoped
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
