Climb Insider: NTC drama, setting trends, athlete podcasts

Just a few thoughts

Top-of-mind for many US climbing gym managers (and coaches, setters, athletes) is the situation with the proposed USAC National Training Center in Salt Lake City. The issue blew up in late December, we’ve been covering it, and you’ll find fresh updates below. Beyond that drama, in the UK new guidance for gyms and an athlete health policy have been released. Plus a few podcasts with top athletes, IFSC grips, setting trends, and more.

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Community & Culture

• Feb 1-29: Apply for 2024 Community Grants (Global Climbing Initiative)
• By Feb 16: Get Best Price for Indoor Climbing Expo Y2 (Indoor Climbing Expo)
• Understanding SafeSport Policies and Why Climbers Need to Take Them Seriously (Outside)
• BMC Launches Athlete Health Policy (GB Climbing)
• Podcast: Yannick Flohé (Careless Talk)
• Podcast: Jakob Schubert (The Nugget)

USAC NTC Drama

• Task Force Survey Does Little to Lessen Gyms’ Concerns About New National Training Center; Shocking Board of Directors Resignation (CBJ)
• National Training Center Pushback Affects Comp Schedule and Multi-Million-Dollar Loan for The Front (CBJ)
• USA Climbing Plans to Build a National Training Center. Gym Owners Are Pissed.(Delaney Miller, Outside)
• USA Climbing Announces the National Training Center Project (CBJ)

For Managers

• Feb 22 & 28: Online “Climbing For All” Disability Awareness Course (NICAS)
• Mountain Training releases updated guidance for site-specific climbing wall training schemes (ABC Walls)
• Video: Lessons Learned- Trust and Financial Organization of Building Projects(Chris Ryan Studio)

For Routesetters

• Apr 23-25: Route Setting Development Courses in UK (ABC Walls)
• Routesetting Trends of 2023 (Naomi Stevens and John Burgman)
• IFSC Release Catalogue S24 – Holds, Macros, and Volumes for the Olympic Qualifier Series Event in Budapest (IFSC)

Training Tips

• Video: You’ve Been Told Wrong – Don’t Let Your Climbing Suffer (Lattice Training)
• Video: How to Gain Contact Strength (Dr. Tyler Nelson, Camp 4 Human Performance)
• The Key Thing My Training Has Been Missing All This Time (Neely Quinn, TrainingBeta)
• 6 Plyometric Exercises to Boost Climbing Power (Lucie Hanes, Training 4 Climbing)
• From ‘en pointe’ to Redpoint – How Ballet Can Improve Climbing Footwork and Foot Health (Robert Lester & Ruby Cabbell, UK Climbing)