The Short Beta series on CBJ helps youth coaches support the core clientele of a competitive youth program: the climbers on the team and their parents. Originally published on The Short Beta website, the essays in this series cover myriad topics that are relevant to youth climbers and their families, from the non-physical side of climbing to redpoint/onsite comp formats and isolation. We encourage you to read, print and share these resources with your team; all we ask is that you give proper credit when doing so.
Intro by Naomi Stevens
Onsight—also known as Isolation—climbing competitions have strict rules for competitors and spectators, often because the stakes are high. Rounds in USA Climbing’s upcoming Lead/Top Rope Regionals and Divisionals this month as well as National competitions, for example, all follow the Onsight/Isolation format. So, you’ll want to be sure both the youth climbers on your team and their parents are well prepared and aware of the rules. In the latest article in this series, Jason Chang shares some Isolation (Iso) strategies for parents to keep in mind as they support climbers through the experience. Much of the advice is also salient for coaches, who are encouraged to share this article with the parents and climbers on your team!
For more Iso tips, be sure to check out Jason and Silas Chang’s article on supporting youth athletes through Isolation.
A Parent’s Guide to Onsight Climbing Comps
Authored by Jason Chang
[Editor’s Note: An earlier version of this article was first published on The Short Beta website in 2019.]
Our previous articles in this series approached onsight competitions from the youth competitor’s or coach’s perspective. This one is from the parent-spectator side. Here are some tips we’ve learned while cheering on our climbers—especially with little ones in tow.
Travels
One of the things that we’ve learned over the years is that sometimes you travel a long way only to have a tough comp experience (e.g. a climber scores 0T0Z or something like that). It happens. It’s part of the development process, and you have to trust the process. If your kid is putting in the work, they will get better. But one thing that helps is to make the trip more than just about the competition. Plan some fun outings with friends or teammates. Start some traditions like eating Cracker Barrel pancakes while watching a Marvel movie the night before the comp. Order dessert. Do some sightseeing. Have fun, keep it light, and always be learning.
Schedule
Know your child’s check-in time for Iso and their place in the running order. Check with your child’s coach, the USA Climbing website, and/or your region’s Facebook page. Onsight competitions are usually long, taking multiple hours.
Iso Check-In
The check-in times for Iso are STRICT. If a climber is one second late, they’re probably getting barred from entry. This rule helps protect the integrity of the onsight round. So, be sure to plan for traffic and time to find parking. Often, there will be a specific drop-off area for competitors. Make sure your climbers do NOT enter the spectator entrance, because seeing the climbs before they compete will get them disqualified.
Parking & Food Options
In some locations, parking is extremely limited. It may not be convenient to leave and return later for your child’s climb time. Many venues provide food and drinks for purchase on site, but some do not. Some places have dining options within walking distance, others do not. So, do your research ahead of time. Bring food and water for your family, always. A group of us once brought camp chairs and a table, since we knew we’d be waiting for a very long time. (Party in the parking lot!)
Climber Siblings
If there are climbers in your family with two different Iso check-in times, remember that the child who climbs later will NOT be allowed to spectate during the earlier session. What will this child do while you watch his/her sibling climb? Come later with a teammate? Tailgate in the parking lot with other stranded siblings and parents? It’s something to think about. Coordinate with other families and come up with a plan for the day.
Spectating Tips
Scope out the climbs. Look for the signs that designate the category (e.g., “MYD1” for Male Youth D Climb #1). If the climbs are all over the gym, there is no need to save your place for hours before your child climbs. The crowds wax and wane, and people follow climbers from climb to climb. If you can maneuver into a good position about 10 minutes before your child is going to climb, you are fine. Just FYI, most gyms do not have a lot of seating for spectators—something to consider if you are inviting elderly grandparents. High-level comps like Nationals may have a stage and one main spectator area (possibly with chairs), in which case it’s a good idea to find a seat early.
Encouragement, but NO Advice
During the competition, do not yell anything that could be construed as giving advice about a climb (i.e., “beta”). This rule includes seemingly innocuous things, like “breathe,” “relax,” “yes!” or “that’s it!” Receiving beta about a climb is grounds for disqualification. No physical contact, no passing of items (even water), no sign language and no direct communication with the climbers is allowed until they finish their routes. Cheer loud, cheer often, but limit your words. We usually say some variation of “yeahhhhh, [child’s name]!” or “c’mon, [child’s name]!” to keep ourselves in check.
Video
Taking videos of your child’s climbs is a highly recommended idea in case of disputes later on. You can use the video in the appeals process, although only coaches and competitors can file the actual appeal. It’s also helpful for analysis and coaching. But remember that all video taking must be in accordance with USA Climbing’s media policy, so be sure to know the rules beforehand.
Rules, Scoring and Results
Acquaint yourself with all the rules and the scoring system. USA Climbing’s rules and policies can be found here, and results are posted here.
Younger Siblings
Safety, entertainment and feeding are the main concerns for younger children. Keep your little ones safe from falling climbers, and keep climbers safe by keeping your curious toddler out of the way. Soft (front or back) carriers are my favorite for keeping a little one safe (and maybe napping!), while I follow the climbers in my family around from route to route. Bring small toys, books and electronics, if appropriate (another episode of “Daniel Tiger’s Neighborhood,” anyone?). Pack snacks, meals, drinks. Also, if you are nursing or need to change diapers, be prepared to be flexible and get creative. Some gyms do not have baby-friendly facilities.
Community
Reach out and connect with the other parents. The climbing community is very friendly and helpful. Volunteering is a great way to contribute. We all have to be there (for hours and hours), so take the time to meet others and join the community. Climbing is a sport in which the crowd cheers for every climber, regardless of team affiliation. It’s awesome to see ALL the youth athletes try hard and push themselves!
