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Routesetters Opening Bouldering Gym Near Hometowns in Bay Area

A rendering of a training board area at Nova Boulders
Partners and Bay Area locals Maggie Yeung and Nilo Batle are opening a new gym on the San Francisco Peninsula, with 3,500 square feet of climbing wall surface spread across the gym’s training boards and bouldering walls. (All photos are courtesy of Nova Boulders)

Nova Boulders
Burlingame, California

Specs: Nova Boulders, owned by Maggie Yeung and Nilo Batle, is expected to open in the coming weeks in Burlingame, a city in the San Francisco Peninsula. Yeung and Batle, both routesetters, started working in the industry over a decade ago and have “coached and worked almost every other job there is in a climbing gym,” Yeung told CBJ. “I think most routesetters, and even everyday climbers, dream about opening their own gym someday, but very few have the privilege and opportunity that we have right now.” The pair “felt that the Bay Area is underserved geographically, and this region could really benefit from having more climbing gyms,” Yeung explained, and, because she and Batle “were ready for a new challenge” and “wanted more ownership over the climbing experience,” they decided to open a gym. “Looking at the long-term picture, it felt inevitable for me to either take this step or move away from the climbing industry,” she added.

Sickle line by Trango

Burlingame was deemed a suitable location for Nova Boulders for several reasons. First, it is located between the two cities where Yeung and Batle were born and raised, “so we feel like we know the community here inside and out,” Yeung said. Additionally, they wanted to bring a climbing gym right in town, which is “in a densely populated area” where they’ve seen the climbing community growing. Lastly, she said it is difficult to find spaces in the region that meet their requirements—high ceilings, a convenient location and a reasonable rental rate—so, when they found a building that did, they moved forward with the project. “We’re in an exciting area that is pretty active without feeling chaotic,” Yeung said. “We’re right next to the airport (you can see the planes taking off), there’s a cute walking trail next to the water outside the building, and we’re also right off the freeway. All the great food nearby is a plus too.”

Bouldering areas depicted at the new gym
“While the climbing industry has grown and evolved so much in the last few years, it’s still challenging to find a career in the industry that feels sustainable and fulfilling,” Yeung stated. “We’re passionate about creating that opportunity for ourselves and hopefully for others in the future as well.”

Nova Boulders will be a bouldering-focused gym with commercial climbing and training amenities in the 12,000-square-foot space. There will be a Tension Board 2, Kilter Board, “macro-heavy spraywall” and rotating Nectar Climbing Omni Board. All training boards in the gym will be adjustable. Additionally, there will be two static walls for commercial climbing sets, a campus board, hangboards, cardio equipment and strength training amenities. A mezzanine will be accessible for members and guests, providing a space for “stretching, lounging and doing work,” Yeung added.

A rendering of the mezzanine and more climbing walls at Nova Boulders
Yeung encourages other gym operators to rely on their communities, adding, “We have had friends and community members put in hundreds of hours of volunteer work, and we really couldn’t have done it without their support.”

Combined, Yeung and Batle have routeset in over 20 gyms around the United States. They have also climbed and set in Asia, having visited gyms in Korea, Japan, the Philippines, Singapore and Thailand. “We really love learning about different routesetting philosophies and cultural influences, and we could go on and on about every different place,” Yeung said. “Broadly speaking, Japan has a reputation for upholding a culture that prioritizes learning and mastery above all else, while in Korea we found that the routesetters we spoke to valued pure fun and everyone finding success. We want to take bits and pieces from everywhere we’ve been to inform the routesetting and gym culture in our space.”

Flooring: Cascade
Website: www.novaboulders.com
Instagram: @NovaBoulders

In Their Words: “One of our biggest objectives for the gym is to challenge the default climbing gym model that we’ve seen develop in our time as climbers…We see ourselves as part of a third-wave climbing movement…[and] we’re really excited about the possibility of doing things differently.” – Maggie Yeung, Co-Founder and Co-Owner of Nova Boulders

Naomi Stevens

Naomi is a competitive youth team coach who has also worked at climbing gyms as a routesetter and personal trainer. After starting college at Colorado State University in 2017, she wanted to make new friends and found climbing, fell in love, and now climbing dictates most of what she does. Naomi earned a bachelor’s degree in Ecosystem Science & Sustainability, and when not climbing she enjoys baking, gardening and crafting.