Just a few thoughts
Lots of news from the comp scene. First, good work and good luck to all the youth competitors in Salt Lake City at the USAC Nationals, speed has wrapped, lead/TR are underway. Second, congrats to Jain and Toby for their golds in Chamonix. Third, controversy has erupted after IFSC doctors quit in protest of the organization’s handling of athlete health. Beyond comps, a great informative piece about assisted braking devices, and also organizing climbing festivals. All that and more below.
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Community & Culture
- United in Yosemite Wasn’t a “Trendy” Diversity Initiative (Holly Yu Tung Chen, Outside)
- Assisted Braking Devices (AAC)
- Best Practices – Climbing Festivals (Massimo Cappuccio, Global Climbing Initiative)
- Alex Honnold to Star in New Horror Film (Gripped)
- Restructure statement and update (BMC)
USAC Youth Nationals
- Videos: USAC 2023 Youth Nationals (USAC)
- Speed Wraps Up at 2023 Youth National Championships (USAC)
World Cup Chamonix
- Video Highlights: Lead Finals – Speed Finals (IFSC)
- Video: Rainy Day Reflections on Jain’s Record-Breaking Win in Chamonix (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
- Video: Cruel Clipping Rules? Commentator’s Nightmare! Kim Oldest Winner! (Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
- Jain Kim, 34, Claims Her 30th Gold Medal in Chamonix Lead World Cup (John Burgman, Outside)
- Gold for Jain Kim and Toby Roberts at the Chamonix IFSC Lead World Cup 2023(Xa White, UK Climbing)
IFSC Doctors Resign
- Climbing has a problem! (Volker Schöffl)
- IFSC Medical Commission Members Resign Over “Inaction” (Delaney Miller, Outside)
- IFSC Statement – Athletes’ Health and the IFSC Medical Commission (IFSC)
For Routesetters
- Video: Come As You Are: Release of a Different Kind of Routesetting Film (CBJ)
- New Climbing Holds and Volumes of July 2023 (CBJ)
Training Tips
- Podcast: Eric Hörst – Top 7 Most Common Training Mistakes (The Nugget)
- Is Running a Good Training Strategy for Rock Climbers? (David Gladish, Outside)
- How to Climb Slopers? Hint: It’s All About Body Position (JP Whitehead, Outside)
- Video: 4 Best Core Exercises for Climbing Ft. Anna Davey (Lattice Training)
