On this episode of The Impact Driver Podcast, host Holly Chen sits down with Nickolas Gagliardi to get us thinking about USAC events as routesetters gear up for the upcoming youth competition season.
Nick started setting in 2015 in St. Paul, Minnesota. While that beginning was only ten years ago, Nick experienced the industry when many setters were still getting paid by the route and boulder—specifically, $7 a boulder, $11 a top rope route, $15 a lead route and $26 for setting the roof. From there, Nick moved to Colorado where he set at the Earth Treks gyms—now Movement—before he finally landed in Portland, Oregon. Now, Nick is a USAC Level 3 routesetter and the Director of Setting at Portland Rock Gym. When he’s not setting, Nick is often climbing outdoors, playing video games, and trying to get better at Go.
General Topics Covered
- The history of Portland Rock Gym’s Beaverton location, designed with setters and competitions in mind
- Key elements of a competition-ready gym
- Communicating with members about hosting USAC competitions
- Preparing to host Youth Nationals
- Lessons learned from hosting Youth Nationals—and what could be done differently next time
- Managing relationships between in-house and guest setters
- Setting novice routesetters up for success in their first competition
- Professional development opportunities for experienced competition setters
Show Notes
- Find Nick Gagliardi on Instagram
- Portland Rock Gym
- 2025 Youth National Championships at the Portland Rock Gym, Beaverton
- USA Climbing Routesetters
- USAC Boulder QE Setting Guidelines and Top Rope/Lead Guidelines
- USAC Rulebook
- You’re Stronger if You’re Honest: Behind the Wrench With Abby Wilson
- More episodes of The Impact Driver Podcast that look at competition team dynamics:
Closing Notes
If you’d like to nominate someone as a next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out.
The Impact Driver podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Kilter and Bold Climbing. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and the team at CBJ. Our theme music is by Devin Dabney.
