The Short Beta series on CBJ helps youth coaches support the core clientele of a competitive youth program: the climbers on the team and their parents. Originally published on The Short Beta website, the essays in this series cover myriad topics that are relevant to youth climbers and their families, from the non-physical side of climbing to redpoint/onsite comp formats and isolation. We encourage you to read, print and share these resources with your team; all we ask is that you give proper credit when doing so.
Intro by Naomi Stevens
Competitions can be a great way for youth athletes to show off their hard work over the season. While often a fun, exciting and social experience, competitions can also come with more challenges than just the boulder problems. For many young climbers, managing the stress that accompanies these events can be the hardest part, so having a list of tips in your quiver can make a big difference before and during a competition.
In this article, Jason Chang summarizes some redpoint bouldering competition basics, such as scoring and general rules. He also provides a list of tips for athletes competing in a redpoint-style event, from beta collecting techniques to competition strategy.
Jason originally wrote this article for youth athletes, but it’s a valuable resource for coaches, too. As a coach, you can put some of these practices into place yourself, or feel free to print them out and share them with the climbers on your team and their parents—who can support and check-in with their child pre-competition to help resolve any confusion.
So, whether you’re a coach, parent or climber reading this article, we hope you walk away with some new competition pointers!
Tips for Classic Redpoint Bouldering Competitions
Authored by Jason Chang
[Editor’s Note: An earlier version of this article was first published on The Short Beta website in 2019.]
Most local youth bouldering competitions have a redpoint format, either “classic” or “modified”. Although this article focuses on the classic format, many of the tips apply in principle to modified redpoints, as well. Read on for a general overview of classic redpoint competitions and some basic tips to consider on navigating those comps.
FORMAT
In a classic redpoint bouldering competition, many climbs of varying difficulty will be set for the competition. All the boulder problems are available to all of the climbers at once, and the competitors may attempt the climbs as many times as they wish in the given time period (usually 3 hours). Each climber has to carry a scorecard and give it to the judge before each attempt.
BETA
Climbers may discuss beta (information or advice about the climbs) in between attempts. No beta can be given to climbers when they are on the wall. Climbers may also watch the other competitors’ attempts to learn about the climbs.
SCORING
In a classic redpoint comp, each problem will have a point value: the score you will receive if—and ONLY if—you top it. At the end of the competition, only the top 5 scores on your scorecard will be counted. Attempts are recorded and may be used to break ties.
TIPS
1. Preview the climbs.
When you enter the competition venue, take time to walk around the gym and scope out the problems. It’s helpful to go with a coach or a more experienced competitor for guidance. Look for the problems that you want to climb: warm-up climbs, “safety” climbs (more on those climbs below), and try-hard climbs.
2. Be selective about your climbs.
Once you are warmed up, don’t waste time and energy on climbs that are way too easy. Be strategic from the beginning by finding five “safety” climbs: climbs that you are fairly confident you can top on the first try but also have decent point values. Once you have those 5 scores in place, you can work on your try-hard climbs with higher point values, to replace those “safe” scores with better ones.
3. Collect beta.
Ask your coach for advice. Talk to and watch other climbers who have a similar height and similar climbing styles/strengths as you. Sometimes a climb is a lot harder or a lot easier than it appears, so you may have to adjust your strategy partway through the comp.
4. Take breaks.
It’s common to hit a wall after 1.5-2 hours of a redpoint comp. If you feel yourself getting frustrated, take a breather. Have a snack, drink some water, and take a step back for a few minutes. Rest long enough to regain a positive attitude and get back some of your energy. 3 hours of competing is a long time. Pace yourself.
5. Manage your time.
Pay attention to which climbs have long lines and which do not. Remember, only tops count in a classic redpoint competition. So, only get in a long line if you are fairly sure you can top the climb and the point value is worth the wait.
6. Make every attempt count.
Try every method with 100% effort, or you won’t truly know if that beta will work for you or not. If you fall, learn from the attempt, and make adjustments accordingly. A good rule of thumb: If after 3 tries, you are not confident you will top the climb on the next 1-2 attempts, move on to something else. (You can come back to it later.) Also, attempts factor into tie breakers. In a tie, the climber with fewer attempts will prevail.
7. Relax and enjoy your climbing.
Focus throughout the competition on gaining useful experience on competition-style climbs. Don’t worry about your placement. Yes, we know you want to get into the top 26 and qualify for Regionals, but stressing out about your placement won’t really help. Concentrate on CLIMBING, not competing.
Special thanks to all the coaches and climbers who have given us advice and input over the years, so that we can share these tips with others. You know who you are.
