EP Climbing

Broadening Our Programs: Behind the Desk with Tom Meehan at Philadelphia Rock Gym

Tom Meehan coaching a youth athlete at a Youth National Championships
Tom Meehan has worked with climbers of all ages over the years in his programming roles at Philadelphia Rock Gym, including managing Team PRG’s competitive climbing team. Since the climbing season can be a long one, he encourages coaches to “[ensure] kids have diverse ways to stay engaged” throughout the year. (Pictured: Meehan coaching a team climber at a recent Youth National Championship; all photos are courtesy of Team Meehan)
Behind the Desk…is a series of interviews with the professionals shaping the climbing industry from the ground floor. In this installment, we’re chatting about directing programs with Tom Meehan. In his role as the Executive Program Director for all five of the Philadelphia Rock Gym facilities, Meehan oversees all youth and adult programming at the gyms. For youth programs, in particular, Meehan notes that the focus is not just on developing climbing skills but on establishing confidence, resilience, and personal growth. “Whether a young climber is taking their first steps on the wall, competing in national events, or tackling outdoor projects, we ensure they have the structure, mentorship, and community support to thrive,” he explains. Meehan also talks about key differences between youth and adult programming, and shares some other keen insights garnered from years of working in a directorial and coaching capacity.

CBJ: What was your route to becoming Philadelphia Rock Gyms’ Executive Program Director?

MEEHAN: I first stepped into the world of climbing and the Philadelphia Rock Gyms in 2011, just as I was finishing high school. As a new climber, I practically lived at the gym…I threw myself into every role I could: working the front desk, coaching, setting, and eventually managing our competitive climbing team, Team PRG. That’s where I truly found my passion.

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Is there a particular area that your programming emphasizes?

A key principle we emphasize in our programming is technical development over pure conditioning and strength. Too often climbers believe, “If I were just a little stronger, I could do that move.” But in reality proper technique makes the biggest difference. Instead of just muscling through climbs, we teach climbers to focus on movement efficiency—like adjusting hip positioning to conserve energy. For most climbers, when they hit a plateau, it’s their technical ability—not strength—that holds them back.

What is the biggest difference between youth programs and adult programs?

Surprisingly, when it comes to the technical approach, the differences aren’t as big as people might think. Regardless of age, climbing technique remains at the heart of our training. Where the difference really shows is in how adults engage with structured coaching. Parents often enroll their kids in instructional programs without hesitation, but adults tend to be more reluctant to seek coaching for themselves. Life is unpredictable, money can be tight, and structured classes feel like a big commitment. To make coaching more accessible, we offer free member coaching sessions once a month. This gives adult climbers a chance to experience professional instruction without pressure.

Tom Meehan bouldering outdoors
Beyond helping athletes prepare for competitions, the programs Meehan leads are organized in part to meet adult and youth climbers where they’re at and help them enjoy and prepare for whatever their next climbing adventure may be, be it indoors or outdoors.

What are some of the keys to getting kids excited about a program?

Climbing has one of the longest competitive seasons compared to traditional sports, with our main season spanning 10 months—and summer expeditions filling the remaining months. Keeping kids engaged throughout that time requires structured progression, which is why we build our programming around a goal-based training cycle. This approach keeps athletes focused and motivated as they transition from skill-building to conditioning phases, depending on whether they’re training for bouldering or roped climbing. Another major factor in maintaining enthusiasm—especially for our competitive team—is ensuring kids have diverse ways to stay engaged beyond USA Climbing competitions. While USAC plays an important role, it primarily serves elite athletes at the top of their age brackets. The competition formats and setting styles don’t necessarily resonate with all climbers. That’s why, beyond USAC events, athletes at PRG set outdoor project goals, participate in The BURN Series [PRG’s homegrown, “more accessible” competition], or focus on personal indoor achievements. Climbing is an incredibly broad sport, and we believe youth programs should reflect that diversity rather than be solely centered around USAC events like many other programs do.

In a given youth program, what have you found the ideal staff-to-climber ratio to be?

The ideal ratio depends on the age and experience level of the climbers. For younger children who are new to climbing, a ratio of 1:4 or 1:5 ensures the children get adequate supervision and instruction. For advanced competitive team members, ratios of 1:8 or 1:10 tend to work well, as they require less hands-on supervision but still benefit from structured guidance.

What are the most important qualities for a program director?

First, leadership. A director isn’t just overseeing a program; they’re managing people, and earning the respect and trust of your team motivates them to embody and uphold your program’s core philosophies. Second, organization. With multiple programs running across multiple locations, strong systems are essential, and streamlining operations with well-structured processes makes everything more efficient. Finally, communication. A well-run program requires clear, effective communication—not just with staff, but with members, athletes and parents. Ensuring messages are understood and followed through is key to maintaining cohesion.

John Burgman

John Burgman is the author of High Drama, a book that chronicles the history of American competition climbing. He is a Fulbright journalism grant recipient and a former magazine editor. He holds a master’s degree from New York University and bachelor’s degree from Miami University. In addition to writing, he coaches a youth bouldering team. Follow him on Twitter @John_Burgman and Instagram @jbclimbs. Read our interview Meet John Burgman, U.S. Comp Climbing's Top Journalist.