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Understanding Constants Over Time – CBJ Podcast with Claire Gordon
Timestamps
00:00 – Intro 04:38 – About Claire Gordon 05:21 – About Team PinkPoint 07:43 – The Kilter Space 08:13 – The Campus x Team PinkPoint 10:10 – Value of Teams like PinkPoint 11:58 – Competition Climbing 12:59 – Targeting Routesetting for a Specific Audience 16:34 – Competition Simulation 19:05 – Utilizing Existing Routesetting in Gyms for Youth Athletes 20:28 – More Targeted Routesetting 27:11 – Training Time 30:29 – What to Set for Athletes 32:20 – Uncertainty in Competitions 34:06 – Ad Break 36:12 – Constants in Competitions 38:58 – Setting for Learning 40:24 – Leveling-Up Moves 46:43 – Tips for Setting for Kids 49:29 – Breaking Beta 55:39 – How can Routesetters be Better for Youth Programs 59:26 – Funny Moments with Youth Athletes 01:02:04 – ClosingAbridged Transcript
Can you tell the audience who you are and what you do in a couple of sentences?
I’m Claire. I grew up as a comp climber competing in the US as well as in France, and then transitioned into a coach. I have been working professionally in climbing as a coach for the last eight or nine years. And in the last year and a half, I started my own team called PinkPoint Training. We are an independent team, which means we’re not affiliated with a specific gym. And in the last couple weeks, I became part of a brand-new gym opening in Boulder.…Can we talk about the structure of an independent team? What does it mean to be not affiliated with a climbing gym?
…I am not an employee of a gym, and our athletes are not affiliated with a gym, meaning their shirts don’t say a gym on them. They aren’t tied to any memberships or anything, and we just bounce around between gyms. So, I do have contracts with a number of different gyms that allow me to come in and use their space, but we are contractors instead of employees.…Can you tell me whether PinkPoint inspired the opening of [The Campus Climbing]? Is it because you wanted a space for PinkPoint athletes to train? Is it because you had a specific vision or mission in mind?
I think they go hand in hand, but it’s really important to me: this gym is not the PinkPoint gym. It’s not for our team. I tell my kids all the time that we could still get kicked out of this gym, which is mostly a joke. We probably won’t, but they could. So, really, while I would love to provide a space for our team, I really want to create a space where everyone who’s interested in training at a high level can come together and train, be that a 13-year-old kid who’s training for nationals, a 20-year-old who’s training for adult nationals, a 50-year-old who’s trying to send V10 again like they did back in the day, or really anyone in between. I’d like to create a space where anyone looking to train at a high level is an equal.…Why do you think teams like PinkPoint are important to have in this community? When you started PinkPoint, what is it? What do you see missing in the current youth competitive field that made you want to start PinkPoint?
Yeah, I think there’s a number of things that play into that and the bottom line is that a lot of coaches are not full-time coaches. They have many other roles within their gym. And I was feeling that myself trying to make ends meet financially and coach, I just didn’t have the bandwidth to pour 100% into the team and really give them the attention they deserve. And so, something really important to me is that is all I do: PinkPoint. I don’t also work a front desk shift. I’m there for my team, and when I routeset it is for my team, I’m able to set maybe for their weaknesses, maybe to build their confidence, set more compy moves. And something really special that we’re able to do is tweak the climb as we’re trying it……In addition to setting for your athletes, you are also, at some point, simulating a comp environment where that emotional side of the comp comes in…So in addition to simulating the climbing, you’re also simulating the emotional pressure?
Yeah. A lot of what we do in our setting is actually trying to simulate that emotional pressure. And I would never want to tell the kids this, but sometimes we’re like, “This top is just messed up. I don’t know if anyone’s going to match this, but let’s just see.” And then we see, do they break in that moment? And that’s a learning opportunity to be like, “Cool. How did you handle that? You went up there, you fell trying to match the top, and you had 15 seconds left, and you decided to get back on. That was bad time management,” or “You fell matching the top one minute in, and then you just cried for the rest of your three minutes. That was poor emotion management.” And hopefully, we can work out all these kinks before the comp. But I say that and we will never, ever be able to work out all the kinks before the comp because you just can’t simulate the pressure of how much it matters when you’re there.And you mentioned earlier that you still split your time between taking your kids to commercial gyms under contracts. How do you utilize commercial gyms’ existing routesetting that you are not creating for your athletes to help them perform or improve?
Anytime an athlete gets to onsite a climb that is good training for us. So, bouncing around between gyms is really beneficial, because almost every time we go into a gym, there’s something new for our kids to climb, and we have no idea what we’re going to get at a comp. I think sometimes people are like, “When we show up to nationals, it’ll be triple paddle dynos and bat hangs and it’s going to be crazy.” And then they just get a crimp power block. And they’re like, “What?” But we do still see that in comps, and it is important to be prepared for anything. And so that’s really cool, too. We get to climb on so many different people’s routesetting, and they get so many opportunities to onsite. We’re not seeing what a kid specifically wants to work on……How do you split this? Like, on the simulation comp days, and on tweak and fun days, and your train at other gym days: how do you divide the time between these [days] with your athletes?
Yeah, so it really depends on where we are in the season. So, let’s say in September the kids go back to school, we start back up with practices. There’ll be much more of learning movement, learning technique, playing with climbing, playing with different moves, just learning and experiencing together, and then the phase we were just in. So, we had nationals at the beginning of July, and I would say in June right before that, we’re really not fine-tuning a lot of the technical aspects, and we’re more fine-tuning the mental aspects, doing more mock comps, trying to expose them to different moves. And something we get to do in our routesetting, too, is build our kids’ confidence…There are definitely, and correct me if I’m wrong, parts of your training and your routesetting for your kids that are constant. For example, things that we see in comps a lot. We’ll probably see a rose move. We’ll probably see a run and jump. We’ll probably see paddles in various difficulties and levels. How do you go about helping your kids learn and learn them to a point where it’s almost second nature, these constants that do appear in competition?
In climbing, I think this idea of constants is they’re constant over time. And I think that causes a lot of conflict for kids and adults. They’ll watch a comp, and they’ll be like, “That comp had no dynos.” I’m like, “Yeah, we see comps with no dynos, but as a general average across time, we do see dynos. Right?” But that doesn’t mean that every single comp you go to will have a dyno. I think in our regionals this year, there were zero dynos. And I had kids be like, “What the heck? I trained dynos, and then I didn’t see a dyno.” Yeah, that will happen. But these kind of general movement patterns, we try to teach them movement and understanding of their body in space, rather than “Here’s how you do this paddle,” because you’ll never, ever see this paddle again, so it doesn’t matter. But do you understand how you’re generating movement? Where is your belly button over your toe? Where are your hips? Did you generate three times and let go when your hands were at your hips? Did you let go when your hands were at your shoulders? How much did you drive through your legs? When did you let go of the right hand versus the left hand? So, it’s less about learning the move……Let’s say you’re setting a learning moment for me. I need to learn how to dyno and how my body works, moves through space. You set the easy level. I do it…How do you as the routesetter and coach now level that up?…
There’s so many different parts to it and I really like to do it in multiple parts. So, I’d be like, okay, I’m going to lower the feet. Same thing, but the feet are lower, so the way you generate is a little different. And we talk about how moving those feet change the experience. Okay, now I’ll put the feet back and I’m going to move the hand further. So you get that same initial generation from your feet, but you’re going to a further hold. Okay, we’ll talk about how to do that. Okay, now I’m going to put the feet lower again and keep the hand further. Can we still do this? Okay, now I’m going to downsize the feet and it’s really incremental. And we will talk together about, “Well, what did that do for you, for me to change that? Why did this get harder?……Most coaches who work at commercial gyms are oftentimes also routesetters, or routesetters are also coaches or coaches have a background in routesetting, competition climbing. So, in your experience and just all these years of coaching and routesetting, what are some of the common mistakes you see in routesetting at a commercial facility that can hinder an elite athlete’s performance and training?
Yeah, I think the biggest one is I work with kids who are 4’9” and very legitimately can climb V12. If they can reach it, they can climb it. And I think a lot of those kids are not able to actually be pushed to their full potential because the routesetting doesn’t allow it. Those kids sometimes just stop being able to reach at V5. And I think there’s a misconception on, “Well, if we set for kids, then it’s stupid easy if you’re six feet tall.” And that’s just not true, right? Like, a 4’9” kid and a six-foot-tall dude or lady could [project] the same climb. Maybe there’s a foot that the 4’9” kid is using, but the six-foot-tall person would just never consider using it. It’s just us adding a small foot option all of a sudden that gave the kid the opportunity to proj V10….…What are some things, or, I don’t know, questions to ask yourself or step by steps that a commercial routesetter can do if they want to begin to set for their elite team or their younger sibling who just started climbing?
Yeah, I think the very first thing is meet those kids. Talk to them. I just had a conversation with a very experienced routesetter, someone who set at a national level, who looked at me and said, “Oh my gosh, 4’8” is so much smaller than I thought it was.” I had texted them and been like, “Yeah, one of my kids is 4’8”, can you try [to set] a climb? And they were like, “For sure. He can totally reach everything.” And then the kid got on the climb, and he was like, “Oh, no, 4’8” is so short.” So the first step is just meet these kids, get to know them, watch them climb. I think a lot of routesetters clock out at 4:00 or 5:00 and then the youth team shows up at 5:00. And so a lot of them have never even seen who these kids are. And all of my favorite routesetters, all of the best route setters in my experience know the kids, even if that’s just because they climbed with them once……Let’s say you’re a routesetter who does not coach; for example, me. But I still care deeply about the development of the climbing team or the next generation of youth climbers coming up to crush and show us what’s cool. How can I be a better routesetter and how can I collaborate with the coaching department more? What are some questions that we can be asking as routesetters? Specifically, the routesetters who don’t coach.
I think I’ll go back to my number one thing of meet the kids, know a couple kids names, know how they climb. And then the more conversations you can have with the coaching staff, like, “What is your team struggling with?” And they could just say, “Oh, we have a bunch of kids who are having a hard time with dynos,” and maybe you see a few more dynos in that week’s set. The members won’t be upset because I bet the reason the kids are struggling with it is they don’t see it in your routesetting often. So, I bet your members are struggling with it, too. The youth team often doesn’t exist in just a separate bubble, but they have eyes watching them all the time and the coaches can provide you feedback. I think if more gyms could create intentional feedback patterns and not just coaches being like, “This sucks, there’s nothing for my kids,” and routesetters being like, “Shut up, you have no idea what you’re talking about.” I think there’s a tension, but there doesn’t have to be….…One last quick question. Can you share a funny thing that your athlete has said to you? Because kids say the funniest things sometimes.
…We actually walked into the [Longmont Climbing Collective] comp this year—brand new gym. I think you actually set for this QE. We walk in, we’re looking at it, and two of our little kids were talking together, and one of them was like, “Wow. The starts of these climbs look hard,” but he’s kind of talking quiet and the other one loudly. There happened to be a moment of silence, and he’s like, “Decking builds character.” And everyone turned around, and they’re all wearing their PinkPoint shirts, and they’re looking at me, and I’m like, “I promise I didn’t teach them that.”New Climbing Holds & Volumes: September 2024
ARTLINE
New from ArtLine: Speed Kid PackDEATHGRIPS CLIMBING
New from Deathgrips: Vaya Full LineHITO HOLDS
New from Hito: Igo Family – Igo Mega 1 – Bowl Dual Family – Bowls Dualtex Full Set – Obal Dualtex Full Set North American Distribution by: Solostile Climbing LabNEO
New from Neo: Low absolutes NEO-39-NT fiberglass macroPOLYTALON
New from Polytalon: Kids Climbing Holds Moby Full SetRUSTAM CLIMBING
New from Rustam: Dragon Scale Full Line Distribution by: Bold ClimbingSIMPL.
New from Simpl.: Wheel 8S Distribution by: Bold ClimbingTEKNIK HANDHOLDS
New from Teknik: Big Elytra – Small Elytra – Mini Elytra – Micro ElytraATOMIK CLIMBING HOLDS
New from Atomik: XXXL Banana LedgeESCAPE CLIMBING
New from Escape: Hex Volume Full LineGREENHOLDS
New from Greenholds: Down Climb Jug 2.0IBEX CLIMBING HOLDS
New from Ibex: Macros Alpha L5 PinchesOCELOT GRIPS
New from Ocelot: Glazed JugsSO ILL
New from So iLL: Baby DeluxeSubmit your latest shapes and products
Each month we publish a list of recent hold, volume, and training gear releases. Brands that self-report using this form will be included for free.Climb Insider: walls in a park, garage, and bank
Just a few thoughts
The kids are back to school and comp teams are gearing up for the season openers – USA Climbing starts mid Oct, and ASCL starts in Nov. For the pros there are still a few World Cups coming too. Beyond comps, there’s a nice selection of stuff for routesetters this week below, and also CWA is now accepting session proposals for Summit 2025. Plus sweet wall setups in a garage, a park, and an old bank. See The Freshest Job Posts HereCommunity & Culture
- Video: The Rise of Climbing (Financial Times)
- Video: Boyce Park Boulders Are All Set (Walltopia)
- Indoor safety: what if we talked about boulder falls? (Laurence Guyon, La Fabrique Verticale)
- How did the Paris 2024 Olympic Games impact Sport Climbing Athletes’ Social Media Following? (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
- 45 Climbing Quotes You Should Know (Gripped)
- Video: Exclusive Tour of Alex Honnold’s Home Climbing Gym (WHOOP)
Comp Scene
- Sep 6-7: World Cup Koper 2024 (IFSC)
- Sep 13-15: Jackalope Montreal (Jackalope Festival)
- Video from Villars 2024: Boulder Finals – Lead Finals (IFSC)
- Video: Jackalopefest + Arc’teryx Summer of Climb 2024 Recap (BetaBreakerz)
- Two Brits on the podium at the European Championships (Xa White, UK Climbing)
- French Duo Avezou and Meignan Shine in Boulder Finals at European Championships (IFSC)
- Lehmann and Rogora Take Lead Golds in Villars (IFSC)
- Register Now For 2024-2025 Season (ASCL)
For Routesetters
- Sep 11-14: Setter Summit in Salt Lake City
- Sep 23: Routesetting Member Roundtable (CWA)
- Podcast: Routesetter Olga Niemiec (Jack Masel, Climbing Curated)
- Why diversity and representation matters (Impact Route Setting)
- Routesetters Working With Coaches: Part 1 (Carter Smith, CWA)
- Video: Boulder Bundesliga Finals 2024 – Setting & Final highlights (Beta Routesetting)
- Video: The Art of Fast to Slow Boulders (Roy Quanstrom, Trango)
For Managers
- Sep 19 Webinar: Design Considerations for New Facilities (CBJ)
- Pay What You Can in Indoor Climbing Gyms – Why It Works (CWA)
- Video: How much did it cost to open our climbing gym? (Bouldering Bobat)
- Video: The New Third Space(+) in Building Projects (Chris Ryan Studio)
Training Tips
- Podcast: The Most Underrated Climbing Movement Skill (Kris Hampton, The Power Company)
- Podcast: Tyler Nelson – How Personal Morphology Affects Climbing Performance(Testpiece Climbing)
- Podcast: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years (Eric Hörst, Training 4 Climbing)
- Your Greatest Climbing Strength Is Holding You Back (Kris Hampton, The Power Company)
- Can Training Respiratory Muscles Improve Your Bouldering Performance?(Leanne Urbanek, Outside)
Work in Sales and Software Support at Redpoint HQ – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 September 5
Sales and Software Support Manager Sales and Software Support Specialist Redpoint HQ Bellevue, WA “Redpoint HQ is next generation climbing gym software, built for single or multi-gym business models, large or small membership bases, bouldering-only to full-facility gyms, retail management, events, youth programs, with options to ensure smooth software onboarding, conversions and even company mergers. The Redpoint Team is the best in the business, with 20 years of hands-on gym operations and software development experience, we’ve done it all. Our team ensures that gyms receive the best service and solutions created for gyms to operate effectively now and into the future.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
How To Ask for a Raise: A Guide (With Tips and Scripts) By Jamie Birt “If the company is doing well and your manager isn’t too stressed, but a convenient time to ask for a raise isn’t coming up, reflect on your recent accomplishments. Have you just reached an impressive milestone or exceeded an important goal? If so, this could be a good time to ask for a raise.” Read the full article hereLATEST JOB OPENINGS
See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part timeRECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ | LOCATION | TYPE |
Marketing Manager at Alaska Rock Gym | Anchorage, AK | FT – manager, mktg/sales |
Assistant General Manager at The Climb | Bentonville, AR | FT – manager |
Routesetter at High Altitude Fitness | Truckee/Incline Village, CA/NV | FT – routesetter |
Front Desk Associate at Whetstone | Fort Collins, CO | FT – front desk |
Global Campaign Manager at Head Rush Technologies | Louisville, CO | FT – mktg/sales |
Marketing Manager at Whetstone | Remote/Fort Collins, CO | PT – mktg/sales |
Gym Director at Shift | Holland, MI | FT – manager |
Wall Assembler at Impact | New Hampshire | FT – manufacturing |
Shift Supervisor at The Gravity Vault | Upper Saddle River, NJ | PT – manager |
Marketing Director at Portland Rock Gym | Portland, OR | FT – manager, mktg/sales |
Routesetter at Portland Rock Gym | Portland, OR | FT – routesetter |
Head Routesetter at Movement | Callowhill, PA | FT – manager, routesetter |
Facilities Associate at Movement | Dallas, TX | FT – manufacturing |
Wall and Night Operations Coordinator at Utah Tech University | Saint George, UT | FT – other |
Facility Manager at Latitude | Hampton Roads, VA | FT – manager |
Head Routesetter at Latitude | Hampton Roads, VA | FT – routesetter |
Routesetter at Latitude | Hampton Roads, VA | FT – routesetter |
Sales and Software Support Manager at Redpoint HQ | Bellevue, WA | FT – other |
Sales and Software Support Specialist at Redpoint HQ | Bellevue, WA | FT – other |
Programs Manager at Half Moon | Seattle, WA | FT – manager |
Career Centers of Climbing Industry
NAME | TYPE | LOCATION | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.png | Access Fund | https://www.accessfund.org/about/careers | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wi-adventure-rock.png | Adventure Rock | https://adventurerock.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - WI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.png | Alpine Climbing Adventure Fitness | https://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/ | facility | USA - CA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/american-alpine-club.png | American Alpine Club | https://americanalpineclub.org/jobs | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.png | ASCEND Climbing | https://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobs | facility | USA - OH, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.png | Ascent Studio | https://ascentstudio.com/employment/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.png | Bouldering Project (pick location) | https://boulderingproject.com/ | facility | USA - MN, TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpg | Calgary Climbing Centre | https://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/ | facility | Canada - AB |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.png | Central Rock Gym | https://centralrockgym.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.png | Eldorado Climbing | https://eldowalls.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO - Louisville |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.png | EP Climbing | https://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careers | product | USA - OR - Bend |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.png | Everlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpression | https://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careers | product | USA - MN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.png | FA Climbing | https://faclimbing.com/careers/ | facility | USA - IL, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.png | Guelph Grotto | https://www.guelphgrotto.com/careers | facility | Canada - ON - Guelph |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.png | Head Rush Technologies // TRUBLUE | https://trublueclimbing.com/about/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.png | High Point Climbing & Fitness | https://www.highpointclimbing.com/employment | facility | USA - AL, TN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.png | IMPACT | https://impactclimbing.com/careers/ | product | Canada - ON - Milton |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.png | Junction Climbing Centre | https://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunities | facility | Canada - ON - London |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.png | MetroRock | https://metrorock.com/ | facility | USA - MA, NY, VT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.png | Momentum | https://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLC | facility | USA - TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.png | Movement Gyms | https://movementgyms.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.png | OLC Architecture | https://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammember | service | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.png | OnSite | https://www.theonsite.com/careers | product | Canada - QC |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.png | Organic Climbing | https://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunities | product | USA - PA - Philipsburg |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.png | Peak Experiences | https://www.peakexperiences.com/employment | facility | USA - VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.png | Salon de l'Escalade | https://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/ | organization | France |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.png | Stone Age | https://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/ | facility | USA - NM - Albuquerque |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.png | The Front | https://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/ | facility | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.png | The Gravity Vault | https://gravityvault.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NJ, NY, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.png | The Pad | https://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/ | facility | USA - CA, NV |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.png | The Spot | https://www.thespotgym.com/careers | facilities | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.png | Trango // Tenaya | https://trango.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.png | Treadwall | https://treadwallfitness.com/careers/ | product | USA - MA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.png | Triangle Rock Club (choose location) | https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/ | facility | USA - NC, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.png | Ubergrippen | https://ugclimbing.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.png | UKC (jobs in UK) | https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/ | organization | United Kingdom |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpg | Vertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebble | https://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careers | product | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.png | Vertical World | https://verticalworld.com/ | facility | USA - WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.png | Vital | https://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NY, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.png | Walltopia | https://careers.walltopia.com/ | products | Bulgaria |
New England Bouldering Gym to Open in Former Federal Reserve Bank
Boulder Union New Bedford, Massachusetts
Specs: Boulder Union is slated to open in the coming weeks in New Bedford, Massachusetts, led by Kaylee and Cody Grodzki, Amanda Desrosiers and Evan Hanson. After directing routesetting at High Point, a southern climbing chain, the Grodzkis decided to move back to New Bedford, where Cody’s climbing journey began. As an international routesetter, Cody hoped to bring more new-age climbing to the area. He also felt there was plenty of space for a bouldering gym in the area, since there is only one other commercial climbing gym in New Bedford.
Cody said the project initially started because he wanted a bouldering facility for his own training. What began as building a campus board in his garage turned into building a Moon Board, then a Kilter Board, then a shed for training, then a barn, and then a co-op. “If I’m building a co-op, I might as well build a bouldering gym,” Cody thought. The process then moved quickly—Desrosiers and Hanson joined the team, and Desrosiers found a space soon after. “Before we knew it, we were signing contracts and securing funding,” Cody said. Desrosiers’s discovery of the building was “probably one of the most fortuitous things about the entire project,” Cody said—the Boulder Union team was able to secure the space before it even went to market. The location was an ideal spot, according to Cody, because it was close to their home and in a city with a colorful past. Called the “19th-century Whaling Capital of the World,” a lot of the town’s interesting history was retained in that part of town; surrounding the gym are cobblestone streets, original buildings and an active harbor, for instance. “It’s really cool that we’re in the center of it,” Cody said of the city. “We’re in the center of this historic district, and the building is super rad…It’s been empty for ten years because they couldn’t figure out what to do with it because it’s such a unique space.” The building that houses Boulder Union was built in the mid-1900s as a Federal Reserve bank for the nation and held the architectural plans for every other Federal Reserve bank in the country, Cody explained. The structure was “crazily engineered and designed,” he said, with two-foot-thick, solid granite walls and a jail downstairs. The building had been renovated, but the renovations weren’t recorded. “They didn’t want bank robbers to know they just renovated the space [and] here are the architectural plans,” Cody said. “They kept everything super secret, so there are no records of any work that was done.” This past lent itself to unique challenges during construction since it wasn’t easy to know where the bricks, wood and granite would be. Fortunately, “There were no support pillars or beams we had to move,” Cody said. “It was just a clear, open space,” reaching 39 feet. The team opted for a bouldering gym because they felt it would be easier to enter the market, more affordable and more collaborative. “I think bouldering is naturally more community-driven, more community-oriented,” Cody elaborated. Boulder Union will feature two floors of climbing amenities: The first floor will house the boulders, and the second floor will feature the board room, in the former banker’s board conference room. The second floor also offers traditional fitness equipment, overlooking the facility. The team is keeping some original elements of the building, like the stained-glass windows and the mahogany fireplace.
Cody has been routesetting for nearly 20 years and has set over 100 private, USAC and IFSC competitions. Because competition routesetting is a huge part of his personal passion, he hopes to blend the commercial experience with the competition experience at Boulder Union. “We’re going to offer commercial climbing, but with hopefully a little bit more of a new–age touch as well,” Cody said. For example, he decided to purchase holds seen in the World Cup circuit and Olympics, to give “folks an opportunity to climb on those styles of [climbs] at a level that’s appropriate.” He hopes to invest in every climber, and “to set really creative, interesting, aesthetic challenges…while also still setting true–to–form, new–England–grit, straightforward rock climbs.” And while he doesn’t want to immediately overwhelm the community with a lot of big competitions, he plans to eventually host Qualifying Events, private comps, local and member events, USAC events, and clinics.
Walls: OnSite Flooring: OnSite CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: www.boulderunion.com Instagram: @Boulder_Union
In Their Words: “One thing for sure that we’re going to do, which I’m really excited about, is that, through what I do with Syndicate, this will be a great home base for a tremendous amount of youth training camps, adult training camps, routesetting workshops—both entry-level workshops all the way up through high–level, nationals–and–above workshops. Being a place where people can come and learn and hone their own skills—regardless of if they’re a newer climber, experienced climber, a newer setter, experienced setter and kind of everyone in between—is an aspect I’m really excited about.” – Cody Grodzki, Boulder Union Co-Founder and Co-Owner
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