Åre Klätterhall
Duved, Sweden
Specs: In the Åre Municipality of Sweden, there are a lot of ways to stay active: skiing, snowboarding and other snow activities are...
On today's episode of the CBJ Podcast, host John Burgman and guest Andrew Potter chat about gym startups, software startups, market analysis and much...
Comp season is never over. Yes, the World Cups have finished, US Nationals done, and our 2nd Olympic Games are in the rearview mirror. But local and youth comps are about to hit their stride, at least in the US. Props to the myriad setters, coaches, managers and volunteers who will be supporting local and youth comps this and many weekends to come over the fall and winter. The hustle is real for those on the guest setter circuit and working on their USAC levels – you got this! See The Freshest Job Posts Here
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…Gym ManagerThe Front
Millcreek, UT
“The Gym Manager manages gym operations and gym staff to ensure a high level of customer service and membership retention. They ensure a positive and efficient work environment throughout the entire facility. This includes overseeing staff scheduling and daily duties, implementing onboarding and training, managing employee productivity, and processing disciplinary action. The Gym Managers will also provide coaching and training for the Assistant Gym Managers and the Gym Staff Shift Leads on the team. The Gym Manager will report to the General Manager of The Front.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
Supporting Mental Health in the Workplace (Information and Tips)
By Andrei Kurtuy
“In some cases, work can have a positive impact on employees struggling with mental health. The right workplace can provide a supportive environment, a way to stay engaged and connected, and a support network. The opposite, however, can also be true. A negative work environment can lead employees to struggle with their mental illnesses more severely and push others to experience mental health problems such as burnout, work-related stress, and severe anxiety for the first time. In turn, this causes problems for employees and employers alike, with lack of productivity, work impairment, and loss of profitability being only a few of them.”Read the full article here
In what could be a cautionary tale for the climbing gym industry, it was recently announced that Bouldering Project (BP) has signed a lease to take over the space of the current Crux Climbing South Austin (Crux) location in Austin, Texas, according to multiple sources.
The news hit the Austin climbing community this week, beginning Tuesday with an email to BP members celebrating the gym chain’s new project, followed closely by an Instagram post from Crux lamenting the news. Crux founder and owner Kevin Goradia told CBJ he had been unaware that BP would be moving into the space and first learned of the move directly from a BP representative about five minutes before BP’s member email was sent. Over the ensuing hours and days, both BP and Crux addressed the situation through Instagram posts.
How did this situation happen? Certain aspects of the story are clear; however, there are also some conflicting claims. What is at the core of the story, though, is the fact that Crux’s lease, which Goradia confirms began in 2016, was not renewed and the landlord, 3423 Holdings LLC (LLC), re-leased the property to BP.
According to the Austin Monitor, in 2022, Crux notified the Austin Zoning and Platting Commission that the Crux team was planning to relocate the South Austin gym, pending rezoning of the proposed new location. Per Goradia, Crux’s current lease is in a two-year extension through January 31, 2025, after which it would automatically renew for successive one-year periods unless it was terminated by either party. Goradia told CBJ he intended to execute the automatic renewals to keep the South Austin gym open until the relocation could be completed.
Here is where the stories diverge: According to LLC, “Crux declined the opportunity to enter into a longer term commitment, stating that it wanted flexibility due to its plans to construct a replacement facility.” Only after Crux declined the longer-term lease was the termination option exercised, LLC told CBJ. However, in a conversation with CBJ, Goradia denied that a long-term lease was the nature of that negotiation between Crux and LCC, and Goradia said that LLC exploited an obscure loophole in the terms which allowed LLC to terminate the lease. “We have pursued lease renewal this entire time and were surprisingly served the termination notice on February 1st,” Goradia told CBJ. He explained that Crux did not address the situation publicly or with staff in the hopes that negotiations could be salvaged, as prior experience with the landlord suggested was possible.
Instead, LLC told CBJ that LLC had approached BP in September 2023 about the opportunity for a long-term lease at the location, and LLC added that BP was the only climbing gym operator LLC approached. The decision to approach BP had some history to it: The investors behind LLC also were landlords for BP’s Springdale location through 979 Springdale Road, LP, and have worked closely with BP since 2015, based on CBJ’s research. LLC informed CBJ that neither landlord, nor any of their affiliates, has a financial stake in BP beyond the tenant relationship.
In a conversation with CBJ, BP representatives explained how the opportunity to move into the space had felt like a win-win for both their business and the local community, who they believed were facing the loss of this climbing gym when Crux would be exiting the space. “It’s a bit disheartening to read the extent of the outrage,” Kyle Wiggins, BP Austin Market Director, told CBJ, adding, “We’ve been in Austin for over a decade.”
When asked, Wiggins told CBJ that in the coming months BP intends to open applications for employment at the former Crux location and “if former Crux employees are the right fit and want to work for BP, we would be psyched to have them join us.” At the same time, Goradia assured CBJ there would be opportunities for current Crux staff to work at Crux’s other locations, including the recently opened Pflugerfille gym or the relocated South Austin gym (slated to open in late 2025).
Panning out from the controversy in Austin this week, this episode should serve as a caution to climbing gym operators who lease their space. Difficulties with lease renewals are a common reason why climbing gyms close their doors. However, typically when a closure happens, the gym is demolished or deconstructed. Occasionally, a landlord in possession of a fully equipped gym may look for a new tenant to operate the space. Very often, doing so is a tenuous affair, since the economic reasons the previous gym operator did not renew the lease are the same headwinds facing another operator. But it’s another thing altogether if climbing gym developers begin to see growth opportunities through interfering with existing lease negotiations between landlords and gym operators who intend to continue operations. To be clear, despite allegations, that situation does not appear to be the case here in Austin. However, this moment opens the door to imagine that kind of thing happening somewhere in the future. It’s a reminder of the vulnerabilities that come with leasing gym spaces, as well as the importance of communication between gyms and the communities they serve.
Congrats to the new US National Champions! Unbelievably, Sharma was there too, and just missed finals. Hope he keeps showing up, it’s like the 90s again. Unlike the 90s, we now purchase crags to preserve access, some examples below. Also a few podcasts with comp support staff, changes at USA Climbing, and a few online sessions for gym staff. See The Freshest Job Posts Here
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…Facilities ManagerHalf Moon Bouldering
Seattle, WA
“We are seeking a highly motivated Route Setter that will collaborate with our Route Setting Team to create a memorable bouldering experience for climbers of all ages and abilities. You’ll be responsible for setting high quality boulder problems, based on the needs of the community while expressing what makes your setting unique.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
How To Prepare for an Industry Interview in 8 Steps
By Indeed Editorial Team
“Understanding details about an organization may provide insight to you about their values, certain industry-specific tools or techniques they may use and what they may look for in a candidate. Consider researching the company that you’re performing an interview with to help you prepare for the types of questions they may ask you or skills you may want to include in your answers. You can find out information about an organization by looking at their company website or asking people who worked there.”Read the full article here
Join Hans Florine in Kalymnos, Greece or Central Mexico!
Kalymnos, Greece
November 2-8th, 2024
Optional Multi Pitch Day Nov. 9 & 10th
7 Days of Climbing, Yoga And Culture
Through Earth Play Retreats with Heidi Wirtz and Marc Pietrolungo
Learn more and reserve your spot here!Central Mexico
January 4th – 10th 2025
Join us for the “Triple Crown” – 3 different world-class areas
A Climbing Retreat like no other!
Through Southern Xposure with Simeon Heimowitz
Learn more and reserve your spot here!CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
USA Climbing recently released its 2024-2025 Rulebook, which included several notable changes to previous years’ rules and regulations. The changes ranged from preparatory and operational alterations—such as host facilities being able to apply for a limited waiver allowing members of the public to climb on Qualification Events’ routes and boulders during setting week—to terminology tweaks, like an event’s Chief Routesetter now being referred to as the Head Routesetter. [Editor’s Note: Gym customers who climb on QE routes/boulders during setting week are prohibited from competing in said event; per the new rulebook, those customers cannot be “potential competitors, coaches, or representatives of potential competitors.”]Youth age categories were also changed for the 2024-2025 season, explained in-depth by USA Climbing here. The decision to change the age categories was largely the result of discussions and deliberation between USA Climbing staff and members of a Youth Series Task Force. Qualitative and quantitative data was also collected and “played a critical role in the decisions made for the upcoming 2024-2025 season,” per the announcement above.Most of the amendments to the rules are listed near the beginning of USA Climbing’s new rulebook, in a page titled “Highlighted Changes.” The full 2024-2025 rulebook can be found here.
Panning out, the various changes to the rules came approximately nine months after the formation of the Competition Advisory Committee, a joint group comprised of representatives from the Climbing Wall Association (including many gym owners and operators) and USA Climbing. The Competition Advisory Committee met biweekly to discuss the logistics of hosting competitions and to “provide advice on creating a sustainable competition climbing infrastructure that meets the needs of indoor climbing facilities, competitors, volunteers, and the climbing industry as a whole,” according to Garnet Moore, committee member and Executive Director of the CWA.The Competition Advisory Committee was not created with a goal of changing any particular USA Climbing rules, Moore explained, nor did the committee have voting authority regarding any rule alterations or changes. However, Moore noted that the Competition Advisory Committee was given notice that rule changes were coming (prior to the new rulebook’s publication) based on committee conversations. “I believe that this more collaborative effort has really helped give USA Climbing deeper insight into gym operations and a better understanding of the ways that certain rules and policies can have a higher impact than a non-operator might assume,” Moore told CBJ.
Cost:
Climbers: $45
Callers (VI categories only): $20* (competitors are required to bring their own caller)
*Callers for the top 3 climbers will receive a prize package alongside their climber.
Format: Modified Redpoint
Categories: Our hope is to run the categories listed below. Depending on the number of registrations, categories may be combined.
Neurological / Physical Disability
Visual Impairment (competitors are required to bring their own caller)
Upper Extremity Amputee
Lower Extremity Amputee
Bilateral Lower Limb Impairment***
***Significantly reduced functional use for climbing or absence of bilateral lower limbs
We will have categories for Non-Binary, Female, and Male. This competition is for all ages but we softly suggest ages 7+.
Location:
Central Rock Gym Randolph
445 High St, Randolph MA 02368
New to Paraclimbing Competitions?: If you are looking for additional information about paraclimbing competitions and our adaptive climbing programs, please feel free to contact CRG Adaptive as a resource. You can contact them through email at adaptiveclimbing@centralrockgym.com.
Volunteers: For information about volunteering, please click HERE.
Registration: Registration in advance is required! Register HERE.
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
Here in the US it’s a big weekend – National Championships in Salt Lake City. Over 200 top athletes including 5 champions from 2023 and 2 Olympians. Good luck to all competitors, volunteers and staff! Beyond comps below you’ll find a fresh perspectives on gyms, routesetting, climbing partners, and media. Consider a donation to support survivors of Hurricane Helene.See The Freshest Job Posts Here
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…Facilities ManagerEdgeworks
Bellevue/Seattle/Tacoma, WA
“The Facilities Manager is responsible for the day-to-day inspection, maintenance, repair and construction of Edgeworks facilities, equipment and expansion/improvement projects. The Facilities Manager reports to the Director of Operations and works in collaboration with the Gym Operations managers of each location as well as specific department managers/directors to ensure that the facilities and equipment are maintained and operating in order to provide the highest quality experience for customers and staff. In addition, the Facilities Manager collaborates in the planning and management of special projects and/or construction projects for expansion/improvement of Edgeworks Climbing facilities.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
Boundaries at work: Why they matter and how to set them
By CareerBuilder
“If you’re not good with boundaries or need to go above and beyond to prove yourself, try to shift your perspective. When you attach your self-worth to work, it can be challenging to stop working. You may feel like you always need to go that extra mile and work until you gain recognition to feel good about yourself. This path sets you up for burnout and leads to a constant cycle with a hole in your day-to-day living you can never fill. Instead, strive to see your worth beyond your work.”Read the full article here