New Climbing Holds and Volumes of October 2023
All the newest grips you need are right here, from hyper realistic features to ergonomic jugs, incut edges and even angle-changing macros. October’s grip roundup features the latest designs from 19 companies. Enjoy!
BRANDS INCLUDED BELOW:
360 Holds – Atomik – Bat Holds – Bluepill – Duck Holds – EP Climbing – Essential – Infinity – Kilter – Megalith – Nicros – Polytalon – Pusher – Secret Holds – Thrill Seeker – UNIT – Urban Plastix – Wataaah – TNUT Climbing
Climb Insider: podcasts and US Nationals next week
Just a few thoughts
So many great new podcasts this week spanning our industry. Founders of a new hold brand. Report from a medical symposium. Lessons from European gym development. Kilter versus Moon? Industry events of the future? And a bit of philosophy… being happy with less. Plus a nice variety of quality training articles. Last – good luck to all the competitors at next week’s USA Climbing National Championships! See The Freshest Job Posts HereCommunity & Culture
- Podcast: The Problem with Bucket Lists and How to Be Happy with Less (Clipping Chains)
- Podcast: Finger Injuries, RED-S, and more from the Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium (Training 4 Climbing)
- Video: Advanced belay tips… to get sendy this fall (Anna Hazelnutt)
Comp Scene
- Oct 11-15: USA Climbing National Championships in Idaho (USAC)
- Videos of 2023 NACS Sportrock: Lead Finals – Speed Finals
- 2023-2024 Board of Directors Announced (Christiane Marceau, CEC)
- China at the Double in Asian Games Speed Relay (IFSC)
For Gym Managers
- Oct 26: Mastering Business Risk, Safety, & Crisis (CBJ)
- Video: Safeguarding our Climbers (Climb Scotland)
- Indoor Climbing Expo Is Less Than Three Months Away (CBJ)
- Employee Performance Reviews Suck (Gavin Heverly, Rise Above Consulting)
- Podcast: What American gyms can learn from Europe’s gym industry – CBJ Podcast With Dean Privett (John Burgman, CBJ)
- Podcast: What is the Future of Industry Events? (Backcountry Marketing)
For Routesetters
- Oct 25-28: Competition Setting Workshop in Colorado (Routesetting Institute)
- Indoor Climbing Expo Is Less Than Three Months Away (CBJ)
- Binary Holds: Setting a New Industry Standard (CBJ)
- Podcast: Joey Jannsen & Rich Breuner (The Nugget)
Training Tips
- Podcast: Kilter Board of Moonboard (Tom Randall, Lattice Training)
- How Gut Health Can Impact Your Performance (Amity Warme, PhysiVantage)
- 4 Ways to Build Lungs of Steel – Without Running (Kaelyn Silva, Outside)
- How Climbers Should Train for Dynamic Movement (Sammi Iannucci, Outside)
- How to Deal with Pre-Send or Mid-Send Nerves (Neely Quinn, TrainingBeta)
- The Secret to Training Endurance? Ditch the Rope. (Steve Bechtel, Outside)
Work for Ascent – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2023 October 5
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Front Desk Staff Retail Manager Ascent Studio Fort Collins, CO “We are an energetic team of dedicated climbers working together to:
Front Desk Staff Retail Manager Ascent Studio Fort Collins, CO “We are an energetic team of dedicated climbers working together to:
- Foster community. We strive for a diverse, inclusive, friendly community with a shared passion for climbing.
- Serve the community. We have the duty and privilege to provide the front range with the best indoor climbing experience possible.
- Have fun! We’re always looking for creative ways to inspire and pleasantly surprise.
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
How To Write a Raise Letter (With Template and Example) By Indeed Editorial Team “WA raise letter is a document that a manager writes to inform an employee when they’ve earned a salary increase. It includes details regarding the amount of the raise and why the employee earned it. Raise letters serve as formal documents that an employer might use as a record for future reference. They document any discussions that the manager held with an employee about a salary increase and express the details of the increase and any changes to the employee’s workplace responsibilities.” Read the full article hereLATEST JOB OPENINGS
See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part timeRECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ | LOCATION | TYPE |
Assistant Coach and Routesetter at Gecko | Phoenix, AZ | FT – coach, instructor, routesetter |
Assistant General Manager at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | FT – manager |
Facilities Manager at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | FT – other |
Head Coach at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | PT – manager |
Head Routesetter at Movement RINO | Denver, CO | FT – routesetter |
Front Desk Staff at Ascent Studio | Fort Collins, CO | PT – front desk |
Retail Manager at Ascent Studio | Fort Collins, CO | PT – other |
Gym Manager at Rock Spot | Wallingford, CT | FT – manager |
Head Coach / Youth Coordinator at Sportrock | Gaithersburg, MD | FT – coach, manager |
Team Coach at Gravity Vault | Chatham, NJ | PT – coach |
Head of Youth Programming + Head Comp Coach at The Cliffs | Queens, NY | FT – manager |
Head Setter at Hub | Mississauga, ON | FT – routesetter |
Gym Supervisor at Multnomah Athletic Club | Portland, OR | FT – other |
Head Routesetter at Edgeworks | Tacoma, WA | FT – routesetter |
Team Coordinator at Boulders | Madison, WI | PT – coach, manager |
Wall Installer – Level 1 at EP | USA | FT – manufacturing |
Career Centers of Climbing Industry
NAME | TYPE | LOCATION | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.png | Access Fund | https://www.accessfund.org/about/careers | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wi-adventure-rock.png | Adventure Rock | https://adventurerock.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - WI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.png | Alpine Climbing Adventure Fitness | https://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/ | facility | USA - CA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/american-alpine-club.png | American Alpine Club | https://americanalpineclub.org/jobs | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.png | ASCEND Climbing | https://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobs | facility | USA - OH, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.png | Ascent Studio | https://ascentstudio.com/employment/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.png | Bouldering Project (pick location) | https://boulderingproject.com/ | facility | USA - MN, TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpg | Calgary Climbing Centre | https://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/ | facility | Canada - AB |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.png | Central Rock Gym | https://centralrockgym.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.png | Eldorado Climbing | https://eldowalls.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO - Louisville |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.png | EP Climbing | https://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careers | product | USA - OR - Bend |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.png | Everlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpression | https://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careers | product | USA - MN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.png | FA Climbing | https://faclimbing.com/careers/ | facility | USA - IL, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.png | Guelph Grotto | https://www.guelphgrotto.com/careers | facility | Canada - ON - Guelph |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.png | Head Rush Technologies // TRUBLUE | https://trublueclimbing.com/about/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.png | High Point Climbing & Fitness | https://www.highpointclimbing.com/employment | facility | USA - AL, TN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.png | IMPACT | https://impactclimbing.com/careers/ | product | Canada - ON - Milton |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.png | Junction Climbing Centre | https://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunities | facility | Canada - ON - London |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.png | MetroRock | https://metrorock.com/ | facility | USA - MA, NY, VT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.png | Momentum | https://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLC | facility | USA - TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.png | Movement Gyms | https://movementgyms.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.png | OLC Architecture | https://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammember | service | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.png | OnSite | https://www.theonsite.com/careers | product | Canada - QC |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.png | Organic Climbing | https://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunities | product | USA - PA - Philipsburg |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.png | Peak Experiences | https://www.peakexperiences.com/employment | facility | USA - VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.png | Salon de l'Escalade | https://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/ | organization | France |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.png | Stone Age | https://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/ | facility | USA - NM - Albuquerque |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.png | The Front | https://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/ | facility | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.png | The Gravity Vault | https://gravityvault.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NJ, NY, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.png | The Pad | https://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/ | facility | USA - CA, NV |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.png | The Spot | https://www.thespotgym.com/careers | facilities | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.png | Trango // Tenaya | https://trango.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.png | Treadwall | https://treadwallfitness.com/careers/ | product | USA - MA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.png | Triangle Rock Club (choose location) | https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/ | facility | USA - NC, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.png | Ubergrippen | https://ugclimbing.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.png | UKC (jobs in UK) | https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/ | organization | United Kingdom |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpg | Vertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebble | https://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careers | product | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.png | Vertical World | https://verticalworld.com/ | facility | USA - WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.png | Vital | https://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NY, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.png | Walltopia | https://careers.walltopia.com/ | products | Bulgaria |
What American gyms can learn from Europe’s gym industry – CBJ Podcast With Dean Privett
Today’s guest is Dean Privett. He’s the founder of Iron City Boulders in Pittsburgh and Blue Swan Boulders in Orlando; he’s also the president of Moments Climbing, a European gym chain operating three facilities in Finland. Privett gives his take on some of the ways the U.S. climbing gym industry and the European climbing gym industry are similar and different, based on his experience and conversations he’s had in his line of work. He dives into climbing gym construction and operating costs, location preferences, where U.S. gyms may be behind or ahead of the game, and other characteristics of climbing gyms across the pond versus gyms stateside.
Thank you Butora and TRUEBLUE for your support!
And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!
Timestamps
00:00 – Intro 02:39 – Privett’s indoor climbing industry experience 05:15 – Climbing gym construction in Europe 09:55 – Gym ownership in Europe vs. the U.S. 18:27 – Gym operating costs in Europe vs. the U.S. 23:39 – Climbing gyms in malls 26:41 – Operations of European gyms 31:03 – Is Europe or the U.S. ahead of the game? 38:01 – Routesetting in Europe vs. the U.S. 41:18 – Espresso 43:04 – How to contact Privett 44:04 – ClosingAbridged Transcript
BURGMAN: …At the very base level, you have to find somewhere to have your gym, right, whether it’s building or acquiring a space. So how does that go in Europe? If I’m in Europe and I want to start a gym, what’s that like?
PRIVETT: To clarify, most of my information I’ll be sharing is somewhat anecdotal, from sitting in Walltopia sales agents meetings, with all the different sales reps from Europe, where we present on our numbers, our figures, what projects we’re working on. And then of course I forged relationships with those people, and as I entered the climbing gym ownership and construction side, I asked them questions, leaned on them for consulting, the design stuff. Most of my information is just from conversations with people who have done it—and to clarify, I have not. My business partners have, and so we share a lot of information specific to the Nordic countries. So, I just want to make sure that if I say something that’s not true and some European calls it out, then that’s totally justified. But I’m going to give my best shot at this. And my understanding around the European market constraints for building climbing gyms are kind of specific to the fact that there’s just not giant flat fields where you can buy a piece of property and build a building from the ground up to open a 30,000-square-foot rope gym, right? So, that’s a little bit more true of Texas or the Midwest or cities that don’t have these existing geographic constraints of mountains and rivers. Arguably, Pittsburgh does. It’s pretty hard to buy property in Pittsburgh and build a big building on it until you get out to the suburbs because of that. But it’s much more true of Europe, especially around historic buildings and all those things. So, you see a lot more conversion of existing spaces into climbing gyms rather than new ground-up builds by the owners themselves. Now, the flip of that is there’s still obviously development that happens in European countries where a larger company will come in and buy a piece of property and either scrape it or build a large skyscraper or a building or a mall or something like that. And so, the European operators tend to find themselves partnering up with developers a lot more than the U.S. does—or at a higher percentage, I would say. I think everybody does a little bit of everything in every country. But the percentage of climbing gym operators that have to partner with developers to get to these locations versus buying the land or the property themselves is a lot higher…In Europe, are you seeing venture capitalists increasingly coming in and starting gyms or is it, the mountaineers, the people that just are diehard climbers? Is that similar or different to the US?
I don’t have enough recent information around that because it’s so new in the U.S. as well and I’ve been out of Walltopia for, now, up to four years and had less contact with that. I would say that’s not true in the Nordic market where I’m still more familiar with it, based on my business partners. I think the difference in terms of the climbing gym operators in Europe versus the U.S. is in the U.S., like you said, there are individuals who like climbing; there are individuals who have climbed and are climbers and want to open their own climbing gym. There are individuals who have identified this as a viable business opportunity and are kind of new to the industry but are opening the businesses anyways. And then there’s institutional or venture capital type of companies now coming in and entering the market. I think at least the first two definitely exist in Europe. I assume maybe the third does or they’re starting to as well. But the one thing that Europe has that the U.S. doesn’t is that they also have these kind of clubs or federations that have existed for tens or hundreds of years, essentially, that also can act as gym operators. So, that’s really unique to the European market that we have nothing of that type in the U.S. So, the most common example is the DAV in Germany or basically the Mountaineering Federation or the Alpine Club. It’s some acronym that doesn’t translate exactly in English. But DAV is essentially a mountaineering federation from Germany that I believe is 100 years or plus older, has paying members that support it, and then actually now entered into the climbing gym operations market. And they have a number of facilities all around Germany where if you’re a member of the federation, you can get free or discounted access to the facilities…I’m wondering if you can explain a little bit of the costs of opening a gym in Europe, or maybe specifically in the countries that you’re familiar with, compared to the cost of opening a gym here in the United States. Because here in the U.S. it is pretty expensive to open a gym and getting seemingly more and more expensive as people are coming to expect more and more amenities and programming as part of a gym. So how does that compare to Europe costs?
I can’t speak to the cost of climbing wall construction because I just don’t know—especially now what it has been since the pandemic; I haven’t built since the pandemic. In the U.S. vs. Europe, I think the product was always, even from the Walltopia side, a bit cheaper in Europe, but that was predominantly due to shipping and crew costs, not the product itself. So, there’s some cost savings there and just proximity. But in my experience of co-building gyms during the pandemic, which I did with my business partner—I was building in the U.S. while he was building over in KiipeilyAreena, their big rope gym Ristikko, which is beautiful and an amazing facility for the Nordics, a really large 30,000-square-foot rope gym with 15-meter walls. He built that for the same cost that I built a 10,000-square-foot bouldering gym here in the U.S. And so, most of that relates to trades and permitting and architectural services and the generic construction of a climbing gym. So, again, this is specific to the Nordics. I can’t speak to this in Europe or any of those countries. But in the Nordic markets, their construction costs are so much lower. Their hurdles, their red tape, so to speak, are a lot lower. So, they’re able to build a lot faster. He built that gym in less than six months or something. And granted, there was a pandemic window of production from Walltopia that was available, but the fact that you can even submit permits, get approvals, and build something like that in six months is basically impossible here in the U.S. And so, I think that while they have some barriers to entry that are greater, like the difficulty of finding locations and stuff like that, there are some barriers to entry that are lower, such as finding or getting through a permitting process and getting contractors to build and kind of not blow your budget out of the water. And another is I think worth noting: When it comes to funding and building gyms, especially for first time operators, the most difficult part of getting a gym off the ground is getting a bank to give you a loan based on projections that you have essentially made up and swear will come true because there’s no publicly available information on climbing gym finances yet. Whereas in Europe, almost every country is publicly financial; whether it’s 100% accurate or not depends on how they reported it. But you can basically go and look up the financials of a climbing gym competitor in your country in Europe and see what they did and say to the bank, “Hey, look how well this gym is doing. I want to do this thing in this space.” And it makes it a lot easier to prove the business case and the business model…Something I noticed when I lived in Asia that was very interesting because it was very different from what I was accustomed to seeing here in the United States was you would go to any mall, and there would be a bouldering gym in the mall. You’d see, whatever, the clothing store, and you’d see the food court, and then there would be a bouldering gym. And that’s not to say that doesn’t happen here in the United States; for example, I know First Ascent has a facility in a mall, and I’m sure there are several others. But how about Europe? Does Europe have that same model where you might be going to the mall to buy clothes and then just, “Oh, let’s go next door and have a bouldering session”?
Well, at least in Finland or the Nordic countries, yes, for sure. One of the KiipeilyAreena gyms, the Kalasatama location, is in a mall, and it’s their most successful location in terms of just the number of people that check in. It’s just putting a climbing gym where people are and where people want to be. So, I think the difference there is that what you’re looking at is a mall that was built in this really heavily populated downtown area that has not just retail stores, but restaurants surrounding it as an area, it’s waterfront. And then they built a bouldering gym out in the suburbs as well, closer to the airport in a really big, beautiful glass building, like a greenhouse style building, really cool, you would think would do equally as well. And it’s just not doing as well because it’s more destination based. So, I think that answer is true of any country if the mall is not destination based…I know that the European mall gym is definitely something that Walltopia [sales] reps were always talking about. And again, it’s more of, like, you’re partnering up with a developer who’s building something in a desirable location because it’s too cost prohibitive to buy that property yourself and do it.…Here in the United States, I’m going to go to this gym, I’m going to get a month membership or I’m going to get a year membership or whatever it is. And there are of course variations on that model. But is Europe similar with their revenue model or is it a little different?
My understanding of it is that it’s not heavily membership based. So, this is definitely true of the Finland gyms. I don’t know of it entirely for the other European gyms, but some quick research just going on websites, I struggled to find anything that was just like, “This is your monthly membership rate,” which is on literally every single climbing gym in the U.S.’s website. Because I think we take a lot more after the traditional fitness gym market here in the US., where you sign up for a monthly membership and the more you go, the more cost effective it is. Over there, at least in Finland, it’s definitely day pass and punch pass based. And so, where that can have benefits in that you’re actually getting more revenue per visit, per customer, your revenue is less predictable, less stable, a lot more cyclical. So, the thing that we see specifically in the Finnish gyms is that the summer is rough; it bottoms out because everybody leaves. And there’s a cultural aspect to that where you can leave for a month in Europe and go to a cabin in the woods and that’s completely normal; versus the U.S., where everybody gets one or two weeks off to go to the Ocean City, Maryland Boardwalk. So, it’s just a different lifestyle type of thing. But I think that [what] we’re finding, from just kind of having two gyms that are sharing a lot of information both in the U.S. and Finland for the first time, is that the membership model is really nice. It’s predictable. It allows you to kind of plan future growth and future investments because you can make these easily identifiable targets…It sounds like you’re painting this picture, and correct me if I’m wrong, of, in terms of the construction—meaning finding space, getting financing, the costs, having a more educated base—Europe is a little ahead of the U.S., or there are maybe some advantages to the way Europe does it. But when it comes to operations, at least when we’re talking about the revenue model, and you said you kind of like the membership idea, it sounds like the U.S. is maybe a little bit ahead of Europe, in a sense?
I don’t know if it’s ahead or behind. It’s just different…So, I think the biggest difference is that Europe has had climbing established for so long as a sport and an activity versus not, say, the U.S, but specifically cities like Pittsburgh or Midwest towns or Florida where there’s not an existing rock climb, right. So, that allows them to have an easier time, I believe, of getting customers. It’s just more people know what climbing is. In my experience as a gym operator and a gym customer and working in gyms and stuff, is that your greatest form of marketing is word of mouth. It’s like somebody who tried climbing and was like, “This was so fun, I’m going to bring back a bunch of friends.” Right? So, if that is just happening at a significantly higher rate in Europe, it’s easier for them to get customers. And maybe that happens at a high enough rate that you don’t need membership because so many people are coming in the door all the time to try out climbing. So, I do think that the U.S.’s kind of explosion of indoor climbing gyms in the past ten years and the success of them is something that nobody can ignore in terms of we’re obviously doing something right… I think one of the biggest things that’s worth mentioning is they have, specifically in Europe and less in the Nordic countries, really nailed the coffee/beer aspect of the climbing gym, which the U.S. has just failed to do kind of across the board. There are a couple operators that have had mixed success with it. I think even you and I spoke—like, I designed a coffee bar into all of my gyms, the pandemic happened, I didn’t want to serve coffee during the pandemic. So, I kind of shelved all of that, and we haven’t really brought it back. But almost every climbing gym in Europe, you walk in, you have an espresso, you go climbing, and you sit down, and you have a beer. So, whether you want to call that the “third place” that every business strives for—if it’s not work or home, where’s your third place? The atmosphere of the European climbing gyms catered to things above and beyond just climbing themselves…Vezi Otium Holds Are Here!
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Indoor Climbing Expo Is Less Than Three Months Away
Industry professionals and climbers of all stripes are getting excited for the inaugural Indoor Climbing Expo! You don’t want to miss it. Got your tickets yet?
One thing about Chattanooga in December…the outdoor climbing conditions can be incredible! It’s the best time of year for southern sandstone, and there is SO MUCH rock around—check out the Climbing Areas page on the SCC website for access details, parking information and beta. Here are some popular spots, but this list only scratches the surface. You can also stop by the SCC booth to get the beta directly.
Climbing Business Journal is pleased to be the official media partner of the Indoor Climbing Expo.
- TRAD – T-Wall and Sunset Rock are both classic single pitch, predominantly trad crags close to downtown.
- SPORT – Foster Falls, Denny Cove, Woodcock Cove and Deep Creek are all classic sport areas within an hour of Chattanooga.
- BOULDERING – Stone Fort, Middle Creek, Pep Boys, Lower Pot Point Boulders and Dayton are all great bouldering spots as well.
Lodging Partners & Options
It’s not too soon to make your lodging plans. Be sure to book through the links below for preferred pricing at the two hotels by the Convention Center. MARRIOTT DOWNTOWN (this hotel is attached to the Expo) Book through this link for preferred pricing. HOTEL BO (this hotel is across the street from the Expo) Book through this link for preferred pricing. THE CRASH PAD An amazing local climber-owned hostel in the heart of downtown that rents crash pads for $10-$15/day. Use code CLIMBEXPO for 10% off lodging. Redpoint Inn – campsite and restaurant in nearby town of Jasper, short drive from downtown and close to Foster Falls, Denny Cove and Castle Rock. Prentice Cooper State Forest – limited free primitive camping close to downtown.Expo Week Activities
There are a TON of activities planned during the Expo. Of course there are vendor booths in the Expo Hall (open Noon-5pm on Wed to Fri, and 10am-2pm on Sat), but that’s not even close to being everything there is to do:-
- Pro Athletes in a Board Comp—with big names like Maya Madere, Paul Robinson, Allison Vest, Ravioli Biceps, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Mickael Mawem and more—competing for a shot at the $15K+ cash purse to be held on the Expo Hall floor on Thursday evening.
- CBJ Grip Showcase at Synergy featuring 30 banger boulders set with the latest and greatest shapes from top brands.
- Bounty Boulders at High Point on Saturday night.
- Roundtable Topic Discussions each weekday morning, including discussions on opening a gym, routesetting, gym-to-crag, insurance, sustainability and USA Climbing.
- Hands-On Activities each weekday morning, including hold shaping, hold maintenance, and rope art creation.
- Routesetting & Training Clinics at local gyms and the Expo floor before opening.
- Meet a Nonprofit event to learn how your funds and energy help us gain and preserve access and drive progression in the sport.
- Educational sessions after expo hours, with topics on opening a gym, facility operations, targeted retail.
- Local Crag Tours by the SCC
Brands Who Plan To Exhibit
Does your brand want exposure at the Expo? A booth is the best way, but sponsorships will also get you seen. Register here to see sponsorship options and get ready to move fast on October 9th at Noon ET when they will be released on first-come first-serve basis.Climbing Business Journal is pleased to be the official media partner of the Indoor Climbing Expo.
TruBlue SENDtember Sales Event is Here! – Extended Through October
20% Off TruBlue iQ+ Auto Belay
Through October, you can save 20% on the new TRUBLUE iQ+ Auto Belay. With never-before-seen features like Catch-and-Hold Technology, the TRUBLUE iQ+ gives climbers the opportunity to shake out mid-route, chalk up, and send their favorite auto belay projects! Shop SaleTry TruBlue iQ+ For Free!
Try It Before You Buy It Request a free 60-day demo of the new TRUBLUE iQ+ today! Fill out the demo form to get started. Free DemoCBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
Binary Holds: Setting a New Industry Standard
Innovation within the climbing industry has long been driven by the community’s needs, and in that regard, Binary Holds is no exception. A sister brand of the Calgary Climbing Centre (CCC) chain of indoor climbing facilities and Flashed Climbing, Binary initially represented a way to keep business in-house. After all, CCC’s management figured, purchasing holds for five gym locations is an expensive undertaking—it would be cheaper and more efficient to produce exactly what they needed, when they needed it. Production began in 2014.
Like many hold manufacturers, Binary got its start making polyurethane (PU) holds. Over the next handful of years, the brand produced a full catalog of hold shapes and sizes, not only supplying CCC but earning its keep in the market. But something nagged at Binary’s management team, who knew firsthand how much waste a climbing facility can produce: once holds had outlived their usefulness, all that PU ended up in landfills.
There had to be a better way.
Sustainability efforts in the climbing holds sector have evolved a great deal over the years, and the Binary team wanted to take things a step further. “Our goal is to push for a more sustainable climbing industry,” says Binary employee Nevin Alexander. So, in 2020, the company began prototyping holds made from recyclable materials, eventually settling on acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS). It soon became clear that there wasn’t just potential for this recyclable hold idea to work in North America—the technology was ready, and manufacturing could begin in earnest. In November 2022, Binary halted all urethane production and committed to the switch to recyclable materials.
“A thousand years from now, there will still be urethane holds sitting in landfills,” Alexander says. “Urethane, fiberglass, they don’t break down. But ABS plastic is recyclable, and we can do it locally—it’s easily accessible.”
This story was paid for by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
A more sustainable hold…
Binary’s manufacturing technique cuts down on waste at every step in the process. The company uses vacuum thermoforming (VTF) technology, which involves heating a sheet of plastic (ABS, in this case) to the temperature at which it can be reshaped. The superheated ABS is then placed on a mold in the shape of a climbing hold; air is vacuumed out for a tight seal between the plastic and the mold. Once the plastic cools, it’s removed from the mold, leaving a hold unlike any predecessor on the market. In addition to being recyclable, Binary’s ABS grips are as light as their fiberglass counterparts and continue the hollow-back trend that has reduced plastic consumption over the years. It’s just 6mm of plastic with nothing in the middle, meaning they’re significantly lighter (in some cases, up to 50%) than traditional polyethylene (PE) and polyurethane (PU) holds attached to gym walls across North America, which is a huge advantage for routesetters. Plus, their hollow back also represents considerable cuts to shipping costs, as it allows Binary to nest like-shaped holds of different sizes, fitting more holds in fewer boxes. Setters appreciate the functionality of the new grips, too. “The first thing that caught my eye was how intentional the dual-texture parts of the holds were—a lot of companies add it for aesthetic purposes, but as a routesetter, it’s easier for me to incentivize movement thanks to those more intentionally placed dual-textured areas,” says Brendan Scorpio, a routesetter at Dyno Detroit. The Dyno Detroit team first encountered Binary Holds at the 2023 Climbing Wall Association Summit in Pittsburgh. They were impressed with the process and sold on the holds after getting a chance to climb on them. Scorpio also notes an impressive variety of shape sizes available: “Binary offers everything from those big holds to much smaller holds that you’d grab with one or two fingers,” he says. “These work really well for slabs and even for feet,” meaning the Dyno Detroit team can keep the set together rather than having to mix and match with other holds. And with the gym’s 50-foot walls, he says, it makes a big difference that lighter holds means making fewer trips or hauling fewer buckets up the wall—“it’s also easier on our backs,” he points out. The end result produces less waste, but the process itself is less wasteful, too. Unlike other manufacturing methods, which require different non-recyclable foam models for each size of a given shape of hold, the VTF technology Binary uses relies on a three-dimensional imaging process that can scan existing holds or masters and scale them to any size. No more foam models required.…for a more sustainable climbing industry
When a hold’s lifespan is over, it can be sent back to Binary to be recycled—literally, melted down and re-formed into a new hold. It’s good for business, too: mispours and production errors no longer represent costly mistakes; they can simply be recycled. Alexander notes that Binary is still fairly new to the process and is working to make the process more efficient and sustainable—switching to a bio-based epoxy, for example, meaning a percentage of the materials used to manufacture the epoxy is derived from renewable resources (plants), and making the leap from a mix of virgin and recycled plastic to fully recycled. He adds that while the material and method are a bit costlier than traditional PE or PU, they’re not as expensive as one might think. “By challenging the preconceptions of what climbing holds are, we want to set a new standard for sustainability and inspire other brands to consider more sustainable options for their hold production,” Alexander explains. Tellingly, Binary is willing to share the knowledge it has acquired about producing holds more sustainably. The brand laid out its process at the 2023 CWA Summit and plans to continue attending industry events to spread the word about just how doable it is to create sustainable climbing holds.The future is now
“By sharing our process to make ABS holds, we want to show the world that this technology is accessible and ready to go today,” says Alexander. Ready to go, indeed. At press time, Binary is working with multiple big–name brands—such as Kilter, Urban Plastix and Touchstone—on adding recyclable ABS holds to their lineups, as well as expanding its own shapes and sets. Binary’s own line of ABS holds placed sixth out of 28 competitors—including some manufactured by deeply established brands—at the CBJ Grip Showcase in Pittsburgh last May, confirming that the company has the right ingredients to make a big impact on the industry. In addition to upgrading its epoxy and switching to fully recyclable materials, Binary plans to improve their facility, acquiring more building space and dedicated machinery, as well as expanding their own lineup of holds, in the next year. “We envision a world with ‘fully recyclable gyms,’ even if it’s not all our product,” Alexander says. “We’re not trying to keep anything behind closed doors—we want others to start doing this!”This story was paid for by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
Climb Insider: huge auto belay settlement
Just a few thoughts
The big news this week was the $6M auto belay settlement out of Seattle, an event that has shaken many observers and gym managers in the US. Beyond that, the World Cup season wrapped up, the IFSC released the hold catalogue for Paris 2024, and a ton of great podcasts were published. And tomorrow Salon de l’Escalade begins in Grenoble. See The Freshest Job Posts HereCommunity & Culture
- Oct 25: Philippines Climb Night at The Post (Global Climbing Initiative)
- Earth Treks Founder Becomes the Second American to Summit Every 8,000-Meter Peak (Jake Stern, Outside)
- Podcast: Charlie Schreiber – The Kids are Alright (Enormocast)
- Podcast: Finding Balance and Joy in the Climbing Industry with Taylor Fragomeni(Sends And Suffers)
Auto Belay Settlement
- Gym and Auto Belay Manufacturer to Pay $6M in Settlement for Auto Belay Accident (Delaney Miller, Outside)
- Massive Auto Belay Lawsuit Settlement Hits the Industry (CBJ)
- Climbing Gym, Auto-Belay Maker Settle Lawsuit of Injured Climber for $6M(Andrew McLemore, GearJunkie)
- Will Climbing Gyms Survive the Lawsuits? (Andrew Bisharat, Evening Sends)
Wujiang World Cup
- Videos: Lead finals highlights – Speed finals highlights (IFSC)
- Video: Wujiang Suffers From Circuit Problems, Jessy Wins, Miroslaw Best Ever?(Tyler Norton, Plastic Weekly)
- Japan and China Close Out World Cup Season with Strong Performances (John Burgman, Outside)
- Japan and China dominate IFSC World Cup Lead and Speed – Wujiang 2023 (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
Comp Scene
- Deana Labriola Joins USA Climbing Board of Directors (CBJ)
- Sixty-Eight Climbers, 11 Countries to be Represented at Santiago 2023 (IFSC)
- CEC Announcements (Christiane Marceau, CEC)
- Open Letter – GB Climbing Athletes & Parents cite ‘Loss of Confidence’ in Leadership (Natalie Berry, UK Climbing)
For Gym Managers
- Podcast: Gym Development in Canada and “Making Friends Through Climbing” – CBJ Podcast With Jean-Marc de la Plante (John Burgman, CBJ)
- Create An Annual Indoor Climbing Gym Calendar (Paul Terbrueggen, CWA)
- Gym Owners & Indoor Climbing’s Boom – Part 1 (Chris Oshinski, CWA)
- Video: Climbing Gym Design – Walkways As A Starting Point (Chris Ryan Studio)
For Routesetters
- Podcast: Stefanie Myr (The Nugget)
- IFSC Presents P24 Catalogue – Holds, Macros and Volumes for the Olympic Games Paris 2024 (IFSC)
- Video: Top Tips for Setting Easy Boulders (Impact Route Setting)
- Video: I Recreated The Biggest Climbing Move Of The Year (Emil Abrahamsson)
Training Tips
- Video: Tension Board 2 Spray Wall Review (Ross Fulkerson)
- The Best Thing I Ever Did for My Climbing Was Quit (Corey Buhay, Outside)
- How to Make the Most of Your Climbing Gym (Seiji Ishii, GearJunkie)
- Podcast: Lowpointing – The Most Overlooked Climbing Tactic (The Power Company)
Head Routesetting at Hub Climbing – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2023 September 28
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Head Setter Hub Climbing Mississauga, ON “We are looking for a Head Routesetter to ensure our climbing offerings meet the diverse needs of our community. In this role, you will work closely with the Gym Management, Director of Routesetting and the Assistant Head Routesetter to manage the setting program at one of Canada’s largest climbing gyms. The facility you will manage has about 100 stations of top rope, lead and autobelay climbs. Walls are up to 49 feet in height and there are also several hundred linear feet of bouldering. Wall angles are very diverse.”
Head Setter Hub Climbing Mississauga, ON “We are looking for a Head Routesetter to ensure our climbing offerings meet the diverse needs of our community. In this role, you will work closely with the Gym Management, Director of Routesetting and the Assistant Head Routesetter to manage the setting program at one of Canada’s largest climbing gyms. The facility you will manage has about 100 stations of top rope, lead and autobelay climbs. Walls are up to 49 feet in height and there are also several hundred linear feet of bouldering. Wall angles are very diverse.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
You must chill: How to combat work stress By CareerBuilder “Whatever your job is, odds are you deal with pressure — and work-related stress — from time to time (or a lot of the time), and odds also are that you feel bad about letting your job get to you. Don’t! Even professional athletes can experience stress that can push them to the brink of walking away from a sport all together. If you’re not in a position to hang it up just yet, the good news is that there are ways to combat work stress without quitting your job. And you can incorporate them into your daily routine to help lighten your mood.” Read the full article hereLATEST JOB OPENINGS
See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part timeRECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ | LOCATION | TYPE |
Assistant Coach and Routesetter at Gecko | Phoenix, AZ | FT – coach, instructor, routesetter |
Assistant General Manager at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | FT – manager |
Facilities Manager at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | FT – other |
Head Coach at The Boulder Field | Sacramento, CA | PT – manager |
Assistant Director at Movement | Centennial, CO | FT – manager |
Head Routesetter at Movement RINO | Denver, CO | FT – routesetter |
Elite Team Coach at The Spot | Louisville, CO | PT – coach |
Operations Manager at HiClimb | Honolulu, HI | FT – manager |
Team Coach at Gravity Vault | Chatham, NJ | PT – coach |
Head Setter at Gravity Vault | Hoboken, NJ | FT – manager, routesetter |
Head Setter/Assistant Coach at Gravity Vault | Montclair, NJ | FT – manager, routesetter |
Head of Youth Programming + Head Comp Coach at The Cliffs | Queens, NY | FT – manager |
Head Setter at Hub | Mississauga, ON | FT – routesetter |
Gym Supervisor at Multnomah Athletic Club | Portland, OR | FT – other |
Janitorial Coordinator at Portland Rock Gym | Portland, OR | FT – other |
Customer Experience Manager at Mesa Rim | Austin, TX | FT – manager |
Retail Manager at Edgeworks | Bellevue, WA | FT – manager |
Head Routesetter at Edgeworks | Tacoma, WA | FT – routesetter |
Career Centers of Climbing Industry
NAME | TYPE | LOCATION | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.png | Access Fund | https://www.accessfund.org/about/careers | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wi-adventure-rock.png | Adventure Rock | https://adventurerock.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - WI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.png | Alpine Climbing Adventure Fitness | https://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/ | facility | USA - CA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/american-alpine-club.png | American Alpine Club | https://americanalpineclub.org/jobs | organization | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.png | ASCEND Climbing | https://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobs | facility | USA - OH, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.png | Ascent Studio | https://ascentstudio.com/employment/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.png | Bouldering Project (pick location) | https://boulderingproject.com/ | facility | USA - MN, TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpg | Calgary Climbing Centre | https://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/ | facility | Canada - AB |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.png | Central Rock Gym | https://centralrockgym.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.png | Eldorado Climbing | https://eldowalls.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO - Louisville |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.png | EP Climbing | https://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careers | product | USA - OR - Bend |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.png | Everlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpression | https://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careers | product | USA - MN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.png | FA Climbing | https://faclimbing.com/careers/ | facility | USA - IL, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.png | Guelph Grotto | https://www.guelphgrotto.com/careers | facility | Canada - ON - Guelph |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.png | Head Rush Technologies // TRUBLUE | https://trublueclimbing.com/about/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.png | High Point Climbing & Fitness | https://www.highpointclimbing.com/employment | facility | USA - AL, TN |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.png | IMPACT | https://impactclimbing.com/careers/ | product | Canada - ON - Milton |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.png | Junction Climbing Centre | https://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunities | facility | Canada - ON - London |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.png | MetroRock | https://metrorock.com/ | facility | USA - MA, NY, VT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.png | Momentum | https://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLC | facility | USA - TX, UT, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.png | Movement Gyms | https://movementgyms.com/careers/ | facility | USA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.png | OLC Architecture | https://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammember | service | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.png | OnSite | https://www.theonsite.com/careers | product | Canada - QC |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.png | Organic Climbing | https://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunities | product | USA - PA - Philipsburg |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.png | Peak Experiences | https://www.peakexperiences.com/employment | facility | USA - VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.png | Salon de l'Escalade | https://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/ | organization | France |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.png | Stone Age | https://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/ | facility | USA - NM - Albuquerque |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.png | The Front | https://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/ | facility | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.png | The Gravity Vault | https://gravityvault.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NJ, NY, PA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.png | The Pad | https://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/ | facility | USA - CA, NV |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.png | The Spot | https://www.thespotgym.com/careers | facilities | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.png | Trango // Tenaya | https://trango.com/pages/careers | product | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.png | Treadwall | https://treadwallfitness.com/careers/ | product | USA - MA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.png | Triangle Rock Club (choose location) | https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/ | facility | USA - NC, VA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.png | Ubergrippen | https://ugclimbing.com/jobs/ | facility | USA - CO |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.png | UKC (jobs in UK) | https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/ | organization | United Kingdom |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpg | Vertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebble | https://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careers | product | USA - UT |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.png | Vertical World | https://verticalworld.com/ | facility | USA - WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.png | Vital | https://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careers | facility | USA - CA, NY, WA |
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.png | Walltopia | https://careers.walltopia.com/ | products | Bulgaria |