Intro by Naomi Stevens
You may recognize Jason Chang from his Instagram (@theshortbeta) as a prolific climbing competition photographer. But what you may not know is Jason formerly ran The Short Beta website, where he and contributors wrote and shared articles specifically for youth athletes, coaches and parents. Jason is also a father of three youth climbers and works in the field of enterprise software, so he eventually decided to close the website to have more time for his family, day job and photography. As journalists ourselves, we didn’t want to see his website’s valuable resources become lost to the past; so, we’re resharing a selection of them on CBJ, in the hopes that the information lives on and continues to benefit the youth programs at your gym.
If you’re a team coach, at first glance it may seem like some of the content in this series is not for you. At times you may find yourself thinking, “Wait a minute, these stories are written for climbers and parents, not coaches.” We know, and we hope you’ll still take the time to read them. As a coach, you are the person who interacts with youth climbers and parents the most, and they look to you for guidance on learning how to handle failure, push past puberty, survive isolation and excel at comps. So, we encourage you to print out these articles and share them with the climbers on your team and their parents, as well as your coaching colleagues.
The first article in this multi-part series was written for youth athletes who have just made the competitive climbing team. While resources for training for the physical side of climbing—different exercises, the best hangboard workouts, strength training for climbing, etc.—are readily available on a myriad of climbing media outlets in CBJ’s directory, resources for the non-physical side of climbing can be more difficult to find, especially for young senders. This article aims to fill some of that gap by focusing on the mental side of joining a competitive youth climbing team. It serves as a reminder for any youth competitor starting a new comp season—seasoned crushers too—to always try hard, have fun and embrace the process.
To echo Chang’s closing words: “Get ready to have a great comp season!”
So, You Made the Competitive Climbing Team…Now What?
Authored by Jason Chang
[Editor’s Note: An earlier version of this article was first published on The Short Beta website in 2019.]
So, you made it through tryouts and were awarded a spot on the competitive youth climbing team. Congratulations! Now, how can you make the most of this competition season?
The six tips below have helped my kids mentally prepare for a new comp season, and I hope they help you too. As with any tips, mine aren’t commandments but rather suggestions to thoughtfully consider. It’s up to YOU what advice you choose to put inside your training bag or leave behind.
1. Come to practice ready to learn.
You made the team because you’re skilled and strong. However, your coaches also expect you to work hard to grow as a climber. Be prepared for difficult training sessions that expose your weaknesses. Expect to confront your fears and to exercise your “anti-style.” It won’t always be comfortable, but it will make you a better climber.
2. Be prepared for difficult training sessions that expose your weaknesses.
Arrive at the gym with a positive attitude, ready to try hard. Trust that your coaches have reasons for each drill and exercise—and for the rules they enforce. Be humble and listen. Even if you think their advice won’t help, do your best to follow their directions and give it a try when it’s safe to do so. As the saying goes, “Trust the process.”
(That being said, coaches aren’t perfect—they’re human. We aren’t recommending blind trust. If you have a genuine concern regarding your training regimen, especially if it involves athlete safety and health, approach your coach respectfully and talk about it in a safe setting, where a teammate or parent is present. A good coach will appreciate thoughtful questions and feedback.)
Embrace the challenge of team training and get psyched to improve your climbing game!
3. Recognize that competitive climbing is a journey, with ups and downs.
Good days and bad days are part of training and competing. Some days will be awesome, with new grades topped, personal best comp placements, etc. Celebrate those achievements! But you will also have high-gravity days when you start out excited to climb and you don’t send at the level you expect of yourself. Remember, everyone—even the best pro climber—has days on the struggle bus, and that bumpy ride is part of the process of improvement.
4. Remember, everyone has days on the struggle bus, and that bumpy ride is part of the process of improvement.
Expect highs and lows, not just at practice but throughout the competition season. Even within a single competition, you will probably experience ups and downs. Developing the ability to recover from mistakes quickly and to regain a focused, positive attitude is essential to competitive climbing.
When your climbing performance doesn’t meet your expectations, it’s natural to feel sad or frustrated. That’s okay. However, don’t stay sad and frustrated. Your scores do not define who you are as a climber. Learn from your experiences, put a smile back on your face, and take those lessons into your next round of climbing.
Enjoy the journey, knowing that those hills and valleys are all part of your progress as a competitor and a climber.
5. Invest in your team community.
Everything is more fun with friends! Take the time to get to know the other climbers (and parents) on your team. Get acquainted with the larger, local climbing community in your area, as well. Practice sessions and competitions are more enjoyable when you are surrounded by familiar, friendly faces.
6. Be intentional about building a community of mutual respect, enthusiastic support and the shared joy of climbing.
Be a supportive teammate. Notice and appreciate the energy and effort that others are putting into their climbing. Celebrate their milestones, whether it be a new V-grade achievement or a podium placement. Use your words and your actions to encourage others and to cheer them up and on—never to put them down.
Friends will help you get through those tough training sessions and through hard days at competitions. When you are lacking motivation, your buddies can get you fired up and back on the wall. If you tend to be too hard on yourself, your teammates can help you reframe your perspective—climbing is supposed to be FUN, after all!
Be intentional about building a community of mutual respect, enthusiastic support and the shared joy of climbing.
Get ready to have a great comp season!
Jason Chang is a passionate father of comp climbing kids who also loves photography and runs @theshortbeta Instagram account, where he shares his passion with others. For years, he ran The Short Beta website, which provided valuable information for families of comp climbers. When he decided to discontinue the website, we asked to republish the best timeless articles here on CBJ. In addition, he has contributed many comp and routesetting photos to CBJ over the years.
