I’ve been setting consistently in two different gyms and various competitions around the country over the last 13 years. BlocHaven is a brand new gym that will be one of the largest bouldering gyms in the southeast and will be my first bouldering gym, so I’m very excited [to be the head routesetter].
In my opinion, there’s so much more that goes on behind the scenes to routesetting than just bolting holds on a wall, and I think it’s very important for someone interested in routesetting to learn those aspects first. Rope/ladder management, stripping routes, washing holds, fixing t-nuts, forerunning, fundamentals of movement…just to name a few. When I start teaching a prospective routesetter, I focus on those basics first because they establish a foundation of understanding and competence. I think it builds confidence for a new routesetter to have that groundwork under them, so that when we get to the actual “bolting holds to the wall” part, we can really focus on the intricacies of movement and be more efficient. From there, I typically like to have assignments with specific goals for a routesetter “trainee,” to give them a direction and target to aim for. I find it helps to jumpstart the process.
One, the most important for me, is positive, constructive communication from a senior routesetter that explains why this sequence or move is not working. Two is patience and room for the prospective routesetter to make those mistakes—and for them to visibly see them pan out. I have been fortunate enough to have worked with a number of more seasoned routesetters who have afforded me that patience and allowed me to make stubborn mistakes.
Learn more about me at https://www.syndicateroutesetting.com
