Sierra Elevation (pictured), a roped climbing and bouldering gym located in Monterrey, Mexico, is teaming up with Adamanta, which now operates five locations throughout the country. (All photos courtesy of Adamanta)
In a recent Instagram post, Adamanta, a Mexican climbing gym chain, announced a merger with Sierra Elevation, a climbing gym in Monterrey, Mexico. Since opening its Santa Fé location in Mexico City in 2014, Adamanta has grown to become the largest climbing gym chain in Mexico, opening a second facility in the nation’s capital in 2019 (Escandón) and two more locations last year (Satélite and Puebla) in nearby Naucalpan de Juárez and Puebla. The Sierra Elevation merger extends the Adamanta name further north in the country and brings its total gym count to five.
According to Adrian Hovelman and Javier Díaz, founders and co-CEOs of Sierra Elevation, in 2016 the pair wrote a climbing gym business plan “with the dream of opening a world-class climbing gym in [their] hometown, Monterrey, Mexico.” Hoping the gym would be a “bridge that connects the people of Monterrey with the mountains that surround the city,” Hovelman and Díaz opened Sierra Elevation—a mixed-discipline climbing facility with three floors of climbing, fitness and yoga, plus an onsite restaurant—in February 2021.
The Sierra Elevation founders had plans to open a second location in Monterrey and spoke with their acquaintance Jose Saucedo, the founder and CEO of Adamanta, about the challenges endured while trying to expand. “It became clear that both companies had the same vision, values and business culture regarding the climbing industry and shared the same principles of bringing people together through climbing,” the trio told CBJ. “Instead of growing separately, we realized that we could achieve bigger and greater things together.”
Adamanta has gained four climbing facilities in the past four years, including the Escandón expansion (pictured), one of three bouldering-focused gyms the chain operates.Now, the three gym operators have been putting the merger into motion. “Shareholders from both companies will be fused, with the assets and liabilities of both companies now being managed under one company,” they stated. Sierra Elevation will adopt the Adamanta name, and memberships will include access to all locations for the same price. Additionally, the team plans to retain all staff members, with few organizational changes.
The owners concluded: “Through economies of scale, this [merger] allows us to pool our resources together to grow faster and introduce the sport of indoor climbing to a bigger and wider audience by offering high-quality routesetting, classes, courses and services—all for an accessible price.”
For more stories on climbing gym development in Mexico, be sure to check out last year’s Gyms & Trends report and read about the Mexican climbing gym scene here.
Capitan, the CRM for climbing gyms, has begun hosting round table discussions to foster collaboration between organizations around the world using Capitan. The first round table focused on how to utilize Capitan’s Check-in Challenges. A Check-in Challenge on Capitan is a way to incentivize customers to build up the habit of coming into the gym more frequently. Check-in count is the best predictor of whether a new customer will become a member and if a current member will retain their membership, so gyms using Capitan can reward customers for checking in in targeted ways. “Looking at the data, we know on average it takes customers four visits to purchase a membership, yet most customers only check in twice. Plus, once members stop checking in weekly, they are at higher risk of churning. Check-in challenges are designed to help gyms increase conversion and decrease churn” said Capitan Cofounder & CEO Mary Cornfield.Here are just a few ways Capitan customers are already using Check-in Challenges:
New customer challenges to increase conversion: Automatically add new customers to a challenge to build the habit of coming into the gym from the beginning. Sessions Climbing + Fitness in El Paso, Texas rewarded new customers that checked in 5 times within their first month with a Sessions branded keychain.
Reward customers at meaningful milestones to keep them engaged: Organizations can reward their most loyal customers with swag to keep positively promoting their business. Plus, branded prizes like t-shirts, hats and water bottles serve as additional marketing for organizations. Adrenaline Vault in Perth, Australia has different milestone levels to keep customers engaged and coming back, from 100 visits to be a “Gym Junkie”, to 250 to be a “Plastic Punisher”, to 500 to be a “Plywood Pioneer” and more.
Race to the top: Have members in your organization compete to check in the most in a set time period. One climbing gym in England ran a contest to see which member would hit 1000 check-ins first to boost competition amongst their customers. The winner received a free annual prepaid membership.
With Capitan, organizations can decide which customers are automatically added to a challenge, how many check-ins are required, how long customers have to complete the challenge, and track who has received their prize for completion, all while automatically tying challenges into their other marketing efforts with Capitan’s marketing integrations. Climbers can see their progress when logged into the web-based Climber App, unless an organization wants to hide the progress bar from customers to make it a fun surprise.While a portion of the round table was used for Capitan to share data about member conversions and retention, most of the time was devoted to letting gyms collaborate with each other. “Organizations are constantly asking us how other gyms are using Capitan, so we thought what better way to support our customers than to bring organizations together to collaborate with each other, share their learnings and explore how to continue growing their own businesses” said Cornfield.Each organization received a worksheet to use as a blueprint to continue the conversation with their own teams, a breakdown of reports on Capitan to track their progress, and the opportunity to share additional feedback with the Capitan team on ways to continue evolving challenges to better suit their needs. Maddie Gilmer, COO at the New Orleans Boulder Lounge and attendee of the first round table said of the first discussion “I was excited for the opportunity to connect further with other gyms, and take part in the creative energy and client connection Capitan brings. Our gym, NOBL, left with ideas on how to utilize check-in challenges to benefit our clients and our business, and we cannot wait for the next round table”.“Capitan is a powerful platform with an abundance of tools. We are constantly amazed at the innovative and creative ways organizations use the platform, so we are so excited to create a space for gyms all over the world, whether they are building their first gym as we speak or been around for years, in Colorado or Cardiff, a single location or multi-location organization, to learn from each other” said Cornfield. Future round table discussions will be based around other topics Capitan’s customers are most interested in exploring and open to all staff members of organizations using Capitan.About Capitan:Capitan is a climbing-specific CRM that streamlines waivers, entry passes, memberships, events and more. Their open and supported API allows organizations to connect with all other tools they use to run their business. Capitan is used in climbing gyms across multiple countries, from boutique bouldering facilities to large, multi-location organizations.Round tables are limited to existing Capitan customers. Interested in learning more about check-in challenges or seeing if Capitan could be a good fit for your organization? Book a time here for an intro call or email Capitan at info@hellocapitan.com.CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
The Indoor Climbing Expo is approaching fast, and now is the time to plan your schedule! There are a ton of activities all week long. Below is a breakdown of what’s happening.
Still need lodging?Check out all these lodging options.Curious about Chatt and local climbing?Check out this stuff to do locally.
Activities in the Convention Center
Expo Hall (included)- check out great products and services, and mingle with fellow climbers
Seminars (included) – learn from experts about opening a gym, team planning, routesetting
Board Comp (included) – watch pro athletes throw down on Thursday for a cash purse
Job Fair (included) – find a new job or qualified candidates on Saturday
Roundtables ($5 ea) – hear the latest info on a variety of topics: USAC, routesetting, opening a gym, insurance, sustainability and gym-to-crag
Hands Ons ($20 ea) – get experience with rope art, hold shaping and hold/volume maintenance
REGISTRATION BETA – Registration for these sessions is through the Cvent portal where you purchased your main attendee ticket. (1) Login (2) scroll to the bottom/left and click Modify Registration (3) proceed to Session Add Ons (4) checkout and pay.
Routesetting & Training Clinics
@ High Point Downtown ($200 ea, register here) – training clinics with Sierra Blair-Coyle on Tuesday and Wednesday
@ Crux Conditioning ($200 ea, register here) – training clinics with Paul Robinson, Allison Vest, and Ravioli Biceps from Tuesday through Friday
@ Synergy Climbing & Ninja ($200 ea, register here) – training clinics with Paul Robinson and Maya Madere
@ High Point Cleveland ($200 ea, register here) – routesetting clinics with Ally Cruz, Blake Green, Sarah Filler and Pierre Despagne on Thursday and Friday
CWA Certifications
Level 1 Work At Height ($1000/$750 ea, register here) – earn authorized worker certification on Tuesday
Level 1 Professional Routesetting ($750/$600 ea, register here) – earn boulder routesetter certification on Wednesday
Does your brand want exposure at the Indoor Climbing Expo? Sponsorships are still available. Contact info@indoorclimbingexpo.com to learn your options.
“I don’t need help managing my online reputation because our reviews are great and word of mouth is our primary source of marketing.” We hear these words time and again from climbing gym operators who are looking to run their business on a shoestring budget. This approach is common for startups, but to grow you have to cultivate your reputation. Think of word-of-mouth marketing as people planting seeds for your business, and your online reputation as the fertilizer; the customers may help plant the seeds,but the business needs to maintain its growth by nurturing those seeds.In this article, we’ll address key factors that relate to your gym business’s growth and brand recognition, and what we can do to help interest in your gym sprout and flourish.
Generating New Leads
Based on our analysis, a majority of climbing gyms already rank on the first page of Google searches in their area. In the climbing world, showing up on the first page of Google isn’t an achievement—it’s expected. The industry, in most markets, simply isn’t saturated enough to not show up on the first page when someone in your local area searches for “climbing near me.” Many gym operators see that result and think their job is done, but here’s why it is not: “Climbing near me” isn’t a popular enough search to grow your business. In fact, the only people who will be searching for “climbing near me” will already be interested in climbing, and the industry isn’t big enough yet to rely on existing interest alone to grow your business, year over year, without cultivating new interest.Improving your gym’s SEO performance concerns keywords for both basic and broader searches—just one of many brand recognition factors that can be tracked with Approach’s Reputation Management tool. (All images by Approach)In the world of climbing gyms, there are generally two primary business models: The first model relies on diehard climbers who have monthly or annual memberships and desire to keep their gym kid-free and not crowded. In order for that kind of gym business to grow its reputation and attract serious climbers, the operators may find it beneficial to be hyper-focused on creating an experience that engages the climbers and celebrates their achievements and failures alike. Gyms that are serving climbers well on the wall and sharing videos of their climbs on social media appear to get more online engagement.The second type of climbing gym business model is the model designed to attract families, new climbers, kids, and aims to operate as a fun, entertainment facility. In order for that gym business to grow from its online reputation, it must attract prospects from broader search bases on Google and other search engines. Every weekend should be viewed as an opportunity to get five new families to come into the gym. The most reliable way to do so is to build an online reputation that gets your business ranking well for broader searches a family may be typing into Google on a Saturday or Sunday, such as “fun things to do near me”, or “family fun in my area.” Showing up on searches like these is a clear indication of a stellar online reputation.“Consistent reviews, star ratings, keywords, and responsiveness to your reviews” all impact the local brand visibility of a climbing gym business and can be monitored via Approach.Five new families of four people every weekend is twenty new leads for a recurring membership model. Twenty new leads a week is 1,040 new leads a year. At a five percent conversion rate, you would have 52 new members a year. That’s 52 new people helping you out with the word-of-mouth marketing that many businesses covet most. In this model, your company would grow an additional $50,000-$100,000+ in annual revenue, before any other marketing efforts, for as long as it remained effective in sustaining that conversion rate.
Growing Engagement
How do we start ranking well for those kinds of searches? This is the question you should be asking yourself, and the answer is simple: consistent reviews, star ratings, keywords, and responsiveness to your reviews. None of these parts of the equation should be surprising. Receiving more reviews equates to more keywords being tapped, giving a gym business more opportunities to respond and trigger more keywords.Of course, your star ratings are important, and the good news is that most climbing gyms are already doing a great job at receiving 4.6 to 5.0 stars consistently. Ifyour gym is not, then you need to focus on getting more reviews because the solution to pollution is dilution—which is to say, your star ratings will more accurately represent the quality of your service when the rare bad reviews get outnumbered by the many more good ones. And remember to always take the time to respond to reviews, whether good or bad.With the Reputation Management tool, good and bad reviews can be collected and organized by topic, allowing gym operators to understand, compare and address root causes.The next piece of the online reputation puzzle is your social media posting, presence and profile. Practically every gym operator is doing social media in some capacity, but the general sentiment we’ve observed is that almost everyone feels clueless when it comes to knowing how much revenue or conversion their efforts are driving. Operators are also finding themselves in a reactionary state on social media, in which it is a piece of work crammed into the middle of someone’s day to get something out at all. This approach to social media marketing results in inconsistency, low engagement, and relatively low brand recognition or excitement.So, how do we fix this approach? First off, we can’t control what other people do, but we can control our response. And becoming consistent in how we respond is crucial for climbing gym social media. Focus on posting consistently, and posting quality content that engages people. In speaking with gym owners every day and viewing their gym’s social media profiles, the takeaway is overwhelming: Videos of climbers climbing is the thing that gets the most engagement. Our profiles need to be celebrating the people on our walls. Every. Single. Day. Gym businesses that are recording climbers (with their permission) and sharing their climbs, cheering them on, and making them the stars are crushing the social media game, and their businesses appear to have more potential.Getting footage of climbers at the gym solving problems, conquering obstacles, and outright failing are all great ways to engage your community. People feel seen and supported when the staff at your gym spend time with them, watching them climb and getting a video, and these climbers become the ones who engage with your online content and help promote the stoke. There’s a reason why amusement parks sell photos when you get off the roller coaster: It creates engagement, and the same principle can help you build a community of engaged members at your gym.Genuine engagement on social media is crucial to a gym business’s online reputation, and Approach helps consolidate that work for gym staff, “[aggregating] all your social profiles under one roof.”
Streamlining Reputation Management
The problem is, all that work takes time, and there are always other responsibilities that require staff attention throughout the day and interruptions that come up. To recap all the things we need to do to cultivate a stellar online reputation that converts online interactions into in-person experiences at your gym:
Create unforgettable experiences.
Capture and share those experiences.
Get more five-star reviews.
Respond to those reviews.
Rinse and repeat.
It’s not rocket science, but it does take time.But what if you had a tool that aggregated all your social profiles under one roof, and tracked all your reviews, star scores and posts? What if this tool automated the process of requesting a five-star review, and even the process of responding to each and every review? And what if it also allowed you to plan and schedule when and where each and every social media post went out? Is there a tool that would give the staff at your gym more time to record members’ best moments, and streamline the job of posting to socials, getting reviews and responding to those reviews?Reputation Management through Approach does exactly that, helping our gym partners improve their online reputation through consistent automation and the ability to plan and schedule their social posting so they can be proactive as opposed to reactive.Approach’s Reputation Management tool makes it easy to post to social media platforms, analyze and respond to reviews, and track statistics related to a gym business’s growth and brand recognition.And for the diehard climbing gyms out there, as we head into the winter season and the serious outdoor climbers shift their time to indoor climbing, ask yourself: “If they found you online, what would draw those serious climbers to your gym? Does your reputation exude your gym’s essence? Does it appear they will get better by coming to your gym?”Every weekend, people everywhere make the decision to go out and do something that breaks them out of their routine. That something might be coming to climb at your gym, but for that visit to happen they have to know you are there. So, if you want to grow, set your sights on showing up for those broader searches where the weekenders are looking for something to do.Prioritize posting, responding to and getting reviews, and committing to spending more time capturing your visitors’ moments together, because that’s what people come back for. As we all know, somebody’s first climbing experience could end up being their last, so remember: You only get one chance to make a first impression.
About the Author
Luke Miller is a business consultant currently working with Approach. With a strong focus on business development and strategy, Luke aims to solve everyday business challenges with out-of-the-box thinking. From medical spas and plastic surgery practices to gyms specializing in niche offerings, Luke enjoys the process of digging into specific business models to determine where processes may be streamlined and where revenue can be driven.This story was paid for by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
It’s just over a month to the inaugural Indoor Climbing Expo and now you can see the full Expo schedule! It includes CWA certification courses, sToKed training and setting clinics, CBJ x Rise Above seminars, roundtables and hands on activities, afterparties, and more. It’s not too late to join the festivities in Chattanooga!See The Freshest Job Posts Here
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…Gym Marketing ManagerEdgeworks Climbing
Bellevue, WA
“The Gym Marketing Manager plays a vital role in supporting the Marketing Director and gym operations team by assisting in the implementation of various marketing strategies and campaigns. Key responsibilities include supporting social media initiatives, creating engaging content, and ensuring consistent brand messaging across different channels. Each Gym Marketing Manager is responsible for executing marketing campaigns and materials that promote their facility and programs through various channels and visual messaging tools; supporting business goals, building community, and advancing the Edgeworks brand.”
JOB SEEKER TIPS:
Questions to Ask During a Job Interview
By Geoff Williams
“While you could ask these questions throughout the interview, generally, at the end of an interview, you’ll be asked if you have anything you’d like to ask the interviewer, and that’s when you’ll want to start tossing some questions their way. Unless you truly want to know the answers to all of these questions, it’s best to aim to ask one to three questions. No need to drag out the interview until the end of time.”Read the full article here
Routesetting on ropes requires a full suite of technical equipment on hand, from full-body harnesses to ascenders and descenders, pulleys and etriers, XL hold buckets and more. (Photo of a setting day at The Cliffs Callowhill by Amalia Wompa; all other images by the respective brand, unless otherwise noted)[Editor’s Note: This article was written by Foxman McCarthy-James, with support from Jackie Hueftle and the CBJ editorial team, as a ropes-focused supplement to 9 Routesetting Essentials and The Drill: A Routesetter’s Best Friend, which cover other essential routesetting tools.]As the climbing industry grows, the realm of setting rope routes has evolved dramatically. Setters who ten years ago would be tying catastrophe knots below their GRIGRIs as they set out of a 5-gallon bucket clipped to their sport harnesses are now becoming rope access technicians with dual-rope systems and mobile fall arrest devices (though a catastrophe knot as a final backup is never a bad idea). While the rapid development can feel overwhelming to those of us who started in a lower-tech, less cumbersome environment, it signals an important move toward professionalism in the fast-growing world of routesetting. Setters are now getting MEWP Operator certifications in order to use boom lifts, and gyms are asking applicants if they have their CWA Work at Height Certification.
Knowing that I approach the subject of working at height from the perspective of a routesetter, I wanted to ensure that I addressed the blind spot in my experience. There are many professions that utilize similar gear, and as I have little to no experience working with brands that cater to arborists and tower climbers, I went to a local company (Arizona Hiking Shack) that specializes in rope access and rescue gear. I looked at gear from many companies I’ve never worked with, (including a CT Climbing ascender that nearly won me over with its integrated roll-clip pulley), but ultimately I concluded that the most practical focus for this article should be the gear that routesetters are most likely to encounter within our specialty. Companies like Skylotec, CT Climbing and CAMP Gear all manufacture work at height gear, but I will not be discussing these products here, due equally to my lack of experience with them and their absence from the common use within commercial routesetting in the U.S.(Scroll down or click on the links below to navigate to each section.)SUSPENSION
It takes a mix of technical tools and know-how to set routes at height, and it’s never a bad idea to get work at height certified. (Photo of Holly Yu Tung Chen setting at Übergrippen Denver)
SUSPENSION
Let’s start with the basics. In order to do our jobs, routesetters need to be suspended—they need to be able to move and sit in a vertical space. Let’s look at the gear that allows us to protect ourselves as we efficiently move up and down rope systems.Metolius Safe Tech Waldo Sit Harness
Harnesses: Sit, Chest, Full-Body
For routesetters spending hours in a vertical workspace, a comfortable harness is critical. Sport harnesses quickly become uncomfortable and restrictive when weighted, and they are far from ideal in a work scenario. Many routesetters who regularly set routes opt for a big wall harness that allows them to forerun and make tweaks comfortably. The most common big wall harnesses used by routesetters are Metolius’ Safe Tech Waldo and Black Diamond’s Big Gun. Both harnesses sport two belay loops, ideal for positioning while suspended. The Waldo also features gear loops that are full strength, making it possible to attach buckets of tweak holds during forerunning (which should never be done with non-rated gear loops).Where to Buy:
Petzl AVAO Full-Body HarnessAs the industry expands, many gyms are adopting rope access techniques from industrial climbing in order to provide setters with a safer workplace. In addition to utilizing a fall arrest system (which I will cover in more depth later), best practices include wearing a full-body harness while setting. For these harnesses, setters have a few options. A chest harness such as the Petzl CHEST’AIR can be combined with a seat harness in order to create a fall arrest harness, allowing a setter to work in their big wall harness without forgoing the protection of a fall arrest device. Petzl also makes several complete full-body harnesses. The AVAO provides a single central point tie-in for suspension on a work line, as well as both a sternal and dorsal point for fall arrest. The ASTRO provides multiple central point tie-in points, convenient for separating a descender from positioning devices, but the ASTRO full-body harness also has an integrated KROLL chest ascender, which is not useful for most routesetters. We can get the best of both worlds, however, by combining the ASTRO Sit harness with one of Petzl’s chest harnesses. Edelrid also now sports a complete professional line of work harnesses, with similar options in sit, chest and full-body configurations.Where to Buy:
An increasingly emphasized addition to a rope routesetter’s kit over the years, a bosun’s chair makes sitting in a harness for a few hours significantly easier on a routesetter’s body. These chairs are essentially a system that includes an actual flat seat to take your weight—the BD Bosun’s Chair or the Petzl Podium are two options. The Petzl Podium can be integrated into a system with a Petzl harness, and the BD Bosun’s Chair can be used with your ascenders and regular harness to create a setting chair that holds your weight while your harness backs you up. No matter what system you use, make sure you have proper training on the setup and are always tied in directly!Where to Buy:
While many of us have worked suspended on a GRIGRI (Petzl’s assisted braking device), we all know it is not designed to be utilized as a hands-free device. Many of us spent years tying catastrophe knots below us in case of failure. Fortunately, better options are becoming standard practice across the industry. The most commonly used descender is Petzl’s RIG. Resembling an overgrown GriGri, the RIG offers several features that make it an ideal tool for routesetters. First and foremost, the RIG offers an AUTO-LOCK feature which allows routesetters to work in a braked position hands-free. (Older models require the setter to move the brake handle to the locked position before going hands-free.) Additionally, the loading gate can be opened without manipulating the connecting carabiner, making it possible for a setter to transfer ropes without detaching the RIG from their harness.Where to Buy:Petzl Rig DescenderBack to TopA Black Diamond ascender (Photo by McCarthy-James)
Ascender
As their name suggests, ascenders are camming devices that allow setters to ascend a fixed rope. While they exist in a number of forms across rope access industries, routesetters most often use a handheld version (aka a jumar) that attaches to the rope above us, giving us a handle to pull on in order to move upward and an easy thumb release when we need to move down. While foot and chest ascenders are extremely efficient for rope access professionals who need to move in a singular direction, they are less than ideal for routesetters, who regularly switch between ascending and descending. A complete rope setting kit should have two ascenders: one for the routesetter and one for their haul system. Handheld ascenders are designed for the left or right hand, and you can use either for either hand, but they’re definitely more comfortable for the hand they’re designed for. I personally recommend getting one of each, and using your dominant side for your suspension system and the non-dominant side ascender for your haul system.Where to Buy:
Back to TopTwo pulleys for routesetting on ropes (Photo by McCarthy-James)
Pulleys
While pulleys can seem like an unnecessary accessory, the mechanical advantage they provide can both expedite the setting process and promote career longevity by reducing wear and tear on a routesetter’s body. By attaching a pulley to their ascender, a routesetter can pull slack out of their descender with an ergonomic downward motion. While some teams use a carabiner to similarly redirect their descender brake line, a pulley reduces friction, making the system more efficient. When movements are repeated hundreds of times over the course of a workday, any efficiency adds up quickly. There are plenty of options to choose from depending on a setter’s preference, from fixed pulleys to systems that are integrated into a carabiner, such as the PETZL Rollclip Z.Where to Buy:
This French word refers to a portable ladder, and it’s a step or steps made of webbing that attach to an ascender to allow setters to stand as they ascend the rope. For setting you really only need one step or maybe two, and in most cases one adjustable step gets the job done in a small package. Metolius makes both a single-step adjustable aider called an Easy Aider and a lightweight multi-step aider called a Pocket Aider, both of which pack into small pouches for easy travel. Petzl’s single-step adjustable option, the FOOTAPE, is also a popular choice. For those wanting a traditional ladder with more steps, Black Diamond makes a six-step Etrier and a lightweight Alpine Aider.Where to Buy:
Now that we’ve covered moving up and down a rope system, let’s look at the devices that allow setters to move laterally across walls. Whether navigating steep overhangs or a wandering route, setters use an array of positioning systems to tether themselves and their holds in their workspace.Metolius Easy Daisy
Positioning Lanyards
Positioning lanyards and personal anchor systems (PAS’s) help setters to both position themselves laterally and anchor themselves to the wall. These can come in a variety of forms, but they are usually adjustable, allowing a setter to control their distance from the wall while remaining connected to their suspension system. Two popular options are Metolius’ Easy Daisy and Petzl’s PROGRESS ADJUST. The PROGRESS ADJUST is an update on the CONNECT ADJUST and provides a more ergonomic release handle, but it still has the downside of needing to be unweighted in order to be released. Working with two adjustable devices helps setters control their way back and forth across the wall, although some setters prefer the more advanced GRILLON (below).Where to Buy:
A more robust positioning device, Petzl’s GRILLON has the advantage of a levered release system similar to the GRIGRI, allowing for a smooth release without needing to unweight the system. The GRILLON also has a protective sheath, allowing it to be used to wrap around beams and scaffolding as we work behind the wall. It can be outfitted with either carabiners or lobster claws. Its longer length and larger profile, while making it ideal for steep overhangs and behind-the-wall access, can make it unwieldy to climb with, so most setters use it in conjunction with another positioning device—ideally something smaller that gives closer access to the wall, such as a PROGRESS ADJUST.Where to Buy:Petzl GRILLONBack to TopPetzl COEUR STEEL 12mm Hanger
Hangers
In order to position themselves on a wall, setters need something on the wall to clip their PAS to. Quickdraws and their hangers are perfect when already installed on the wall, but when not, setters must affix one. Metolius, Edelrid and Petzl all make a hanger that is EN 959 compliant. It is to be noted, however, that a hanger attached to a T-nut for positioning purposes is not suitable for taking falls or hauling excessive loads. You’ll also want to secure the bolt in the hanger to prevent dropping it when it’s not in use.Where to Buy:
A relatively new development in professional routesetting is the introduction of a fall arrest system in addition to our suspension system. Adding a backup in case of a main line failure, these dual-rope systems have been standard practice in other rope access professions and are becoming increasingly common in gyms as an additional safety measure for those of us working at height. Here are the components you’ll need to set up a dual-rope system, based on Climbing Wall Association Work at Height recommendations.Sterling 11mm WorkPro Static Line
Static Lines
While the practicality of using an existing semi-static top rope for all of our work lines can be appealing, fall arrest systems are designed to be used on static ropes measuring 11mm-13mm.Where to Buy:
A fall arrester is a piece of equipment that moves freely up and down a rope with a routesetter, providing backup in case of catastrophe analogous to a seatbelt. In the case of an uncontrolled descent, a centrifugal brake system engages to stop the fall. The current industry standard is Petzl’s ASAP, although Edelrid will be releasing a new fall arrest device later in 2023, called the FUSE.Where to Buy:
Back to TopPetzl ASAP’SORBER AXESS Energy Absorber
Energy Absorber
In the case of a catastrophic failure resulting in the deployment of a fall arrest device, significant force factors come into play. While a Factor 2 fall is functionally impossible for most gym climbers, it is a real possibility for routesetters, who may fall onto a static line system from above their fall arrest device. For this reason, all fall arrest devices are used in conjunction with an energy absorber. These single-use devices deploy in the case of a catastrophic fall to absorb the energy created by the force of a setter falling, much in the way that a dynamic rope cushions a lead fall. These energy absorbers are also needed for worker safety in static work environments at height; for example, when setting off a lift, a setter must use energy-absorbing lanyards for their personal safety system.Where to Buy: Petzl ASAP’SORBER AXESSBack to TopEdelrid VERTIC TRIPLE LOCK Full-Body Harness
Fall Arrest Harness
As we noted earlier, implementing rope access practices that utilize a fall arrest system means using full-body harnesses while working. Fall arrest systems CANNOT be used with a sit harness unless it is paired with an appropriate chest harness. The forces generated by a Factor 2 fall, if not distributed properly, can lead to serious injury. The sternal or dorsal attachment points on a chest or full-body harness are designed to distribute force along the spine in a less catastrophic manner.Where to Buy:
Now that we’ve gotten ourselves moving up and down the wall, we need to get our holds and hardware off the ground. While each setter has their preferred setup for a hauling system, most setters will use a combination of buckets and pulleys in order to gain mechanical advantage.XL hold bucket covers (Photo by McCarthy-James)
Hold Buckets
As walls get taller and holds get bigger, routesetters have moved away from 5-gallon Home Depot buckets toward systems specifically designed to meet the needs of the evolving climbing industry. Gyms building out a setting department should plan for several buckets of varying sizes for each setter’s rope setting system. Flashed and So iLL both make sewn bucket covers at 5 and 17 gallons, equipped with webbing perfect for attaching gear and volumes. The Flashed bucket has the advantage of massive side compartments, but it can be unwieldy for smaller setters due to length of the attachment straps. The So iLL bucket provides easier access for smaller setters, but the side compartments are smaller and less sturdy. Other companies, including Organic and Escape, make multi-pocket 5-gallon bucket covers. There are also soft strong buckets available from other work-at-height industries—if you choose these options, make sure they have a rigid mouth and base or they will collapse around the holds inside and be annoying to use. In Europe, it is not uncommon to use strong rectangular post-boxes rigged with ropes and webbing. Whatever you choose, make sure the bucket and its handle/connection system is properly rated for the weight you are going to put in it and the ways you are going to be moving it around the wall.Where to Buy:
Back to TopPetzl PRO TRAXION (Photo by McCarthy-James)
Progress-Capture Pulley
When moving large buckets of heavy holds up a wall, mechanical advantage is a routesetter’s best friend. By combining the ascenders and pulleys we’ve already discussed, routesetters can easily create a 2:1 pulley system in order to haul their hold bucket. All the mechanical advantage in the world doesn’t matter, though, if we aren’t using the right device to keep our bucket in place. A GRIGRI, while for some setters the only option available, is not only not rated to hold a load suspended hands-free, but also introduces friction into the system, thereby decreasing the efficiency of that system. A much better tool is a progress-capture pulley, such as PETZL’s PRO TRAXION or MICRO TRAXION. Both devices will capture the rope as you haul, while also functioning as an efficient part of the pulley system.Where to Buy:
While most setters are moving away from working on a GRIGRI on their suspension line, the device remains an invaluable tool for any rope setter. Beyond their intended use within sport climbing, assisted-braking belay devices are useful for lowering heavy loads on a pulley system. While progress-capture pulleys are the perfect tool for moving loads up, they are less than ideal for lowering, as they must be unweighted in order to disengage the brake. A GRIGRI, however, can lower a volume just as easily as it can lower a climber. (It should be noted, however, that an assisted-braking belay device always needs an active brake hand, so in a situation such as extended hold removal, the RIG might be a more appropriate tool.)Where to Buy:Petzl GRIGRIBack to Top
MISCELLANEOUS
Beyond the essentials for moving yourself and your gear in a vertical space, there are a number of miscellaneous items that you should take into consideration when building out your gym’s rope routesetting program. These essentials range from critical safety measures, like drill leashes, to tools of convenience, such as magnetic bit holders. Some may be more appropriate for a routesetting department, as opposed to an individual setter’s personal kit.The Hold Room Safety Barriers
Work Zone
A designated work zone, while not part of an individual’s rope setting kit, is a non-negotiable part of commercial gym safety. Particularly when setters may be high above climbers on the ground, it is important to have a physical barrier that prevents people from walking into a drop zone.Where to Buy: The Hold Room Safety BarriersBack to Top
Spare Rope
You never know when you’re going to need some extra rope! This is more of a setter closet necessity than an everyday need, but a few extra ropes can come in handy in a number of situations, from creating a positioning device on the fly to hauling volumes and keeping them secured until they’re attached properly to the wall.Where to Buy:See Static Lines above and Lead Lines below.Back to TopIn addition to static lines for setting, setter-specific lead lines come in handy for forerunning. (Photo of forerunning at Alta Climbing Gilbert by McCarthy-James)
Lead Lines
It’s also good to have setter-specific lead lines for forerunning, so setters aren’t waiting in line for ropes at the desk. Note these ropes should be ONLY used for lead climbing and NOT used for hauling or other tasks that might interfere with the integrity of the rope as a life-saving line.Where to Buy:
There isn’t much worse than being short a connecter when you need one. Since many of the devices in a rope kit require different shapes of carabiners, it is good to have an assortment of different types of rated carabiners, or at least several of the carabiners you know you’ll need to use. In any situation where a setter’s life depends on a connector, it must be locking, preferably auto-locking.Where to Buy:
Not every gym requires routesetters to wear helmets while working on ropes, but it is highly recommended and is crucial in spaces where people may be working above you. Most climbing helmets, however, aren’t rated for the type of impact one can encounter in a work situation, so make sure to find one with an appropriate ANSI rating.Where to Buy:Petzl VERTEX HelmetBack to TopTrango 16mm Nylon Sling
Slings
Whereas most of the tools in a rope setting kit have a hyper-specific purpose, slings are a true jack-of-all-trades. They can be fashioned into a drill leash, used as an etrier in a pinch, tied into a chest harness for rescues, and any number of other uses. A couple of slings might not be part of your everyday setup, but you’ll be glad you have them when you need them.Where to Buy:
Back to TopEndless Climbing Routesetting Wristband
Bit Holder
Dropping bits from 40 feet in the air is a pain. Not only are they a hazard, but they have to be retrieved in order to continue setting. Decrease drops with attachments that hold extra bits in place, either on a drill or clipped to you or your haul bag. Keychain socket adapters provide both a secure and accessible place to store bits. Magnets can be helpful, but should be stored in a pouch to decrease potential drops by removing the risk of brushing a bit off your wrist while rummaging in a bucket or moving around on ropes. Setting-specific wristbands are especially cool—the pictured Endless Climbing Routesetting Wristband features a magnet and nice double-elastic bit slots, so it works for both a quick bit hold and the more secure storage needed for work at height.Where to Buy:
When working at height, our tools should always be tethered to ourselves. Leashes can be purchased from a number of makers, or they can be made from rated cordelette. Milwaukee and Trango both make a bungee leash that clips easily to a harness. Make sure your leash and attachment points are appropriate for the setting environment, and note that locking carabiners which are part of a bungee system (as pictured above) are not necessarily rated for safety and catching larger weights like climbing carabiners are.Where to Buy:Milwaukee Locking Tool LanyardBack to TopPetzl JAG RESCUE KIT
Rescue System
The Petzl JAG SYSTEM is a pre-packaged leverage kit to help with on-the-wall rescues; for example, for removing tension from a system and picking an unconscious setter off their lines. These systems are not standard in gyms yet, but their use is taught in Work at Height courses, and eventually a JAG RESCUE KIT or similar system will be expected in the emergency kit of any setting closet.Where to Buy:
Back to TopWorking at height and using routesetting tools always requires proper training. (Photo of routesetting on ropes at The Cliffs Callowhill by Amalia Wompa)
More Resources
As previously mentioned, this list focuses on essentials for routesetting on ropes and is not exhaustive of all the products on the market, nor all the equipment routesetting requires. For more routesetting essentials, be sure to check out The Drill: A Routesetter’s Best Friend and 9 Routesetting Essentials, which cover other basics, like impact drivers and PPE, as well as the need for training procedures. Routesetters working at height should always be properly trained in their craft. In addition to CWA Work at Height Certification, there are several resources out there for further professional development, some of which are listed below. Remember: Routesetters create the core product of a climbing gym, so investing into a routesetting program and the routesetters on the team is an investment into the community at the gym and well worth making.Where to Learn:
Dave Perozzo and John Kudelka own and operate four climbing facilities in Ontario between the two of them, now that The Core Climbing Gym (pictured) has joined the mix. (Photo courtesy of The Core Climbing Gym)
According to an Instagram post earlier this week, The Core Climbing Gym, a bouldering-focused facility in Ontario, Canada, recently changed ownership. The new owners are a pair of longtime Ontario gym operators, Dave Perozzo and John Kudelka.
In addition to The Core, Perozzo owns the Guelph Grotto, a gym he has operated since 1994, which gained a sizable expansion last year. The pair also owns and operates the Junction Climbing Centre and J2 Bouldering in Ontario, the latter of which was completed last year, as well.
“The Core is an incredible bouldering facility that has served the Cambridge community since 2017,” the Instagram post read. “The Core’s inclusive and welcoming community makes this climbing gym a natural fit with the Grotto and Junction family.”
There are some membership implications with the change in ownership, including current members of The Core being granted access to the other gyms that Perozzo and Kudelka own (Guelph Grotto, Junction and J2) through the end of 2023. However, The Core website indicates that general operations at The Core will not change as a result of the new ownership: “This new partnership is going to provide an opportunity to learn from the wealth of knowledge and experience the new owners have and allow for so many more possibilities.”
Stay tuned to CBJ for the latest news on climbing gym mergers/acquisitions and openings/projects in North America and around the world.
New Paltz, NY USA – Furnace Industries introduces F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds, a new line of steel drytooling holds.
F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds have been designed to change and deeply challenge the way climbers approach their training for Ice, Mixed and Drytool climbing.
In ice & mixed climbing nothing is certain, especially your next pick placement. The way one approaches and prepares for this uncertainty should be an integral part of everyone’s training routine.
On the surface, each hold looks exactly the same. Hidden behind each top plate is a unique hold design requiring you to discover the hold, engage your pick, and unlock the sequence. The result is ultra sharp placement skills cultivated by a deeper focus on pick feedback, body tension, footwork, and overall climbing tenacity.
Forged from bullet hard steel, the F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds are designed to endure the consistent and persistent training required to prepare for the next great ascent!
Discover your true potential and prepare for the unexpected with F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds.
Technical Specifications:
Hold Material: AR 500 Steel (Hardness 50-60 HRC) Backing Plate Material: 7075 Aluminum Footprint: 3” x 4” (7.62cm x 10.16cm)
Stands off wall: 5/8” (1.58cm)
Mount: Screw on
Weight: 8.25oz (232g)
Press Photos: Available Here
About Furnace Industries:
Founded in 2011, Furnace Industries is the leading provider of ice, mixed & drytooling training equipment in North America. Furnace Industries is committed to promoting and supporting the sport of ice and mixed climbing and competition drytooling around the world.
Media Contact:
Nick Hernandez
Co-Owner – Head of Marketing & Sales
Nicholas@Furnace-Industries.com
973-868-8774
www.Furnace-Industries.comCBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
EP Climbing Celebrates Grand Opening of Portland Rock Gym’s Beaverton Location
Featuring US-First Titan Bouldering Wall
Beaverton, Oregon – November 6, 2023 – EP Climbing, a leading climbing wall manufacturer, celebrates the grand opening of Portland Rock Gym‘s state-of-the-art facility in Beaverton, a significant milestone in their ongoing partnership.
When Portland Rock Gym opened in 1988, it was one of the few modular climbing gyms in the world and the second in the United States. PRG became a hub for Oregon’s climbing community and an innovator in climbing training.
Today, Portland Rock Gym continues its legacy of innovation with the introduction of its largest facility yet at Cedar Mill’s Peterkort Towne Square, formerly Orchard Supply Hardware. This remarkable 64,000-square-foot gym is set to become the country’s largest climbing gym.
The Beaverton location, currently undergoing a two-phase completion, promises diverse climbing experiences suitable for all skill levels. The first phase, opened in September 2023, features 8,300 square feet of climbing terrain, including beginner-friendly walls, two adjustable training walls, a colorful spray wall, including the Titan boulder which will also be included in the 2024 Paris Olympics.
The second phase, anticipated for spring 2024, expands the facility with a 60-foot rope climbing wall expands into a 60,000 square foot building, locker rooms, showers, more bouldering space, and a speed wall certified by the International Federation of Sport Climbing.
Beyond climbing walls, the facility includes yoga studios, a gear retail area, and an open workout space. Portland Rock Gym’s mission extends to fostering a community hub where climbing enthusiasts can connect.
Notably, the Beaverton location features the Titan bouldering wall, a groundbreaking training tool. The Titan boulder, designed by EP Climbing in collaboration with the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), made its competitive debut at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern. It will be the bouldering wall for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games in the Combined Boulder and Lead event.
The Titan boulder has also been installed at gyms across Europe and Asia, allowing members of the public to climb on the very same wall as future Olympians. The first Titan Boulder installation in North America can be found at the Beaverton location of Portland Rock Gym.
“We take pride in Portland Rock Gym’s pioneering role with the Titan Boulder,” said Bryce Benge, CEO of EP Climbing (USA). “This addition is a game-changer and a testament to their forward-thinking approach.”
Local businesses in the area anticipate a positive impact on the community as this facility attracts climbers. The official grand opening party took place on October 17, 2023.
For more information about EP Climbing and the Titan Boulder, please visit www.epclimbing.com.
About EP Climbing:
EP Climbing, a leading climbing wall manufacturer, collaborates with gyms worldwide to create innovative climbing spaces, earning a strong reputation in the industry.
Capitan, the CRM for climbing gyms, has begun hosting round table discussions to foster collaboration between organizations around the world using Capitan. The first round table focused on how to utilize Capitan’s Check-in Challenges.
A Check-in Challenge on Capitan is a way to incentivize customers to build up the habit of coming into the gym more frequently. Check-in count is the best predictor of whether a new customer will become a member and if a current member will retain their membership, so gyms using Capitan can reward customers for checking in in targeted ways. “Looking at the data, we know on average it takes customers four visits to purchase a membership, yet most customers only check in twice. Plus, once members stop checking in weekly, they are at higher risk of churning. Check-in challenges are designed to help gyms increase conversion and decrease churn” said Capitan Cofounder & CEO Mary Cornfield.
Here are just a few ways Capitan customers are already using Check-in Challenges:
The Indoor Climbing Expo is approaching fast, and now is the time to plan your schedule! There are a ton of activities all week long. Below is a breakdown of what’s happening.
Still need lodging?
Check out all these lodging options.
Curious about Chatt and local climbing?
Check out this stuff to do locally.
Echo Stone Holds
Luke Miller is a business consultant currently working with Approach. With a strong focus on business development and strategy, Luke aims to solve everyday business challenges with out-of-the-box thinking. From medical spas and plastic surgery practices to gyms specializing in niche offerings, Luke enjoys the process of digging into specific business models to determine where processes may be streamlined and where revenue can be driven.
CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
New Paltz, NY USA – Furnace Industries introduces F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds, a new line of steel drytooling holds.
F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds have been designed to change and deeply challenge the way climbers approach their training for Ice, Mixed and Drytool climbing.
In ice & mixed climbing nothing is certain, especially your next pick placement. The way one approaches and prepares for this uncertainty should be an integral part of everyone’s training routine.
On the surface, each hold looks exactly the same. Hidden behind each top plate is a unique hold design requiring you to discover the hold, engage your pick, and unlock the sequence. The result is ultra sharp placement skills cultivated by a deeper focus on pick feedback, body tension, footwork, and overall climbing tenacity.
Forged from bullet hard steel, the F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds are designed to endure the consistent and persistent training required to prepare for the next great ascent!
Discover your true potential and prepare for the unexpected with F-Line Hidden Drytooling Holds.
Technical Specifications:
Hold Material: AR 500 Steel (Hardness 50-60 HRC) Backing Plate Material: 7075 Aluminum Footprint: 3” x 4” (7.62cm x 10.16cm)
Stands off wall: 5/8” (1.58cm)
Mount: Screw on
Weight: 8.25oz (232g)
Press Photos: Available Here
About Furnace Industries:
Founded in 2011, Furnace Industries is the leading provider of ice, mixed & drytooling training equipment in North America. Furnace Industries is committed to promoting and supporting the sport of ice and mixed climbing and competition drytooling around the world.
Media Contact:
Nick Hernandez
Co-Owner – Head of Marketing & Sales
Nicholas@Furnace-Industries.com
973-868-8774
www.Furnace-Industries.com
