Addressing the Entire Climbing Cycle – CBJ Podcast with Chris Klinke

CBJ Podcast with Chris Klinke
Graphic by Climbing Business Journal; all photos courtesy of Chris Klinke
Chris Klinke is the President of Trango, a Colorado-based designer and manufacturer of climbing gear and holds, with history dating back to the company’s founding in 1991 by Malcolm Daly. Trango is now a producer of carabiners, harnesses, chalk, hangboards, ropes and more, and the company is also a distributor of Tenaya shoes in the U.S. Chris specifically has had a really fascinating, winding path to becoming president of Trango, and he has gained a lot of business acumen from that multifaceted career journey. As a side note, be sure to start writing down your goals, whatever they may be, because written goals have played a crucial role in helping Chris experience such a cool life and career. Thank you OnSite for your support! And thank you Devin Dabney for your music!

Timestamps

00:00 – Intro 03:49 – Office Talk 07:49 – Chapters of Klinke’s Career 14:17 – Advice for Making a Career Change 26:10 – Moving up the Company Ladder 29:06 – Conception of Ideas at Trango 35:11 – Diversifying a Product Line 37:40 – Climbing Brand Advertising 41:19 – Growth of the Climbing Community 44:57 – Choosing Partners 49:26 – Business Consolidation 54:59 – New Trango Products 57:24 – Closing

OnSite Climbing Walls

Abridged Transcript

BURGMAN: …When I was doing research for this call, I kind of thought that your career, your life—among other chapters—can really be divided into three distinct periods: The first of which being, according to the Trango website, you were VP for a large Fortune 50 financial services organization…And then after that, you climbed Everest and you worked as a mountain guide and kind of a career adventurer, it sounds like, for a number of years. And then the current chapter, which is president of Trango, so you have sort of reentered, so to speak, the more traditional business world—traveling a little bit, but you’re not working predominantly on mountaintops and all of that. So, I thought maybe we would just look at those three chapters, kind of put them under a microscope, and you can tell me about them…

KLINKE: My role evolved into being a business consultant and helping people increase their financial services practice, which really came down to some really basic things: activity and effectiveness. How many people are you seeing, and how effective are you at your interactions with your clients? How do you service your clients? How do you meet their needs? How do you educate them? How do you help them make good investment decisions that benefit them in the long run? The better job you do at that, the more clients you will have, the more assets you will have, the more income you will have, and the easier everybody’s life becomes. Because long term, the financial world is investment market. Take any ten-year period in the stock market, do a diversified portfolio, you’re going to be further ahead in ten years than you were last week. That’s large numbers. And so, my job was to go in and help advisors put together a strategy to meet with their clients, to service their clients effectively, to help recruit new clients, recruit new advisors, and to do that with 300 people over three states. It was 70, 80 hours a week. So, it was a lot…On average, I’d have 30 to 40 meetings a week, but it would be spread out across ten different offices. It was just, it was a lot.

And so, I got to a point where I’m looking at what I’m doing, realized that there was more to life than just working. I got big into adventure racing. I was part of an adventure racing team. And so, I’d fit that in early morning or late at night, doing the training and working on weekends with my team. And, you know, we qualified for nationals a couple times and all that other fun stuff back when that was early 2000s, I guess. And so, I just realized I’m not having that much fun working. Like, my job isn’t giving me personal satisfaction. So, I kind of got to a point where I was like, “I need to make a change.” And I had found a list of goals I put together when I was twelve. This sounds really corny, but it’s true. And the list of goals had five different goals on it. And the only one I hadn’t achieved was climbing Mount Everest, which is really funny. And I remember writing this list of goals together and it came in a box of stuff my mom had given me…But the only one I hadn’t achieved was climbing Mount Everest. So I’m like, “Oh, well, maybe I should do that.” And I found this list of goals when I was like 30. Took me four years to make the decision to leave. It wasn’t an easy decision because the path I was on was definitely financial freedom, independent, like being able to retire at 45 if I wanted to or earlier. It was pretty lucrative. Let’s call it what it is: I walked away from a lot of opportunity on the financial side for something that was more personally rewarding. And everybody thought I was crazy, and I was in a lot of ways [laughs]. But when I did that, it was because I knew there were more things I wanted to do in my life than just run a financial services organization and be in metro Detroit and do the same thing for the next 30 years. That would have driven me insane.
Klinke in the high mountains
Klinke has experience in the five disciplines for which Trango crafts gear and products: gym climbing, bouldering, sport, trad and alpine.

…For anybody that has those moments, those revelatory moments in their own life, assessing their own career, and realizes, “I should make a change,” what can you say to people about getting them to cross the threshold and actually do it?…

I think the biggest thing is to believe in yourself. And again, the hardest part is I didn’t know what the end result was going to be. I literally thought, “I’m going to leave, I’m going to take six months off, and I’m going to come back into financial services because it’s safe and I know how to survive in that industry.” I kept all my licenses intact for twelve years after I left, as my safety net [laughs]. Again, you keep your securities license, and I had managing principle—I had all these licenses. And I kept them all active, continued my CE every year to make sure I had that fallback position. Just like in climbing, you always want to make sure you have a safety net, you have a plan, you have a strategy, but you might not always know where the end is going to take you. Sometimes you just have to trust yourself…
Trango Holds Pardners
What I really figured out, after spending a few years trying to figure out what am I going to do next—I got offered to buy a new climbing business, offered to buy a climbing gym, all these different things back in 2007, 2008, 2009. And what I figured out is you just have to commit and start going in a direction. The great thing about that is: You start going in that direction and you realize it’s quick sand, you can turn around, you can go a different direction. The biggest failure people do is fail to commit to a direction at all. And so you have to just commit to a direction. What people forget is you can change your mind [laughs]. It’s not forever…

You have a way of, it sounds like, cruising up the ladder at a company very quickly, whether it’s in finances or, in this case, whether it’s in the outdoor industry, in a company like Trango. And you said it wasn’t your plan to necessarily do that, but you’re pretty good at it. You must know what you’re doing to rise up like that.

…At times, yes. I think what it’s about with anything is just being dedicated and willing to put in the work. I mean, this is the part that everybody forgets about, is there is a lot of work: getting goals in front of people, getting a direction in front of people, establishing what are the metrics. And I’ll go back to what I talked about at the beginning, which is activity plus effectiveness. And it’s figuring out how those metrics apply in Trango versus how they apply in financial services versus how they apply in guiding. It’s still the same thing. In guiding, activity is: “How many clients do you have and how effective are you at getting them to the top, and how well do they tell that story when they get done.” In financial services, it’s: “How many clients are you seeing a week? How are you influencing them to give you additional assets? What does that look like?” And in Trango, it’s: “How many products are you creating and how do people value those? How do you keep that going?” …So, there’s a lot of pieces to it; it’s not simple. But for each one of those areas, I break it down into—on the Trango side, it’s been product, marketing, sales and operations. Those four things apply to every business I’ve been in. And how do you manage those?

…Because Trango makes so many products—beaners, harnesses, chalk, on and on—can you give me an example of a product, just gear, and how was something conceived? What was the process like? Or at least how does it work at the Trango office to get something from idea to store shelf and whatnot?

…I want Trango to create innovative products that climbers trust. And so that means whether it’s a climbing hold, whether it’s a carabiner, whether it’s a rope—these are all things that I want us to be able to promote and actively talk about in the marketplace, that these are innovative products climbers trust. So, Red Flag was a concept that I tried to get made for ten years—of the final five yards of a rope that has a different color—and it’s all because I watched somebody deck. They just belayed off, let somebody off the end of the rope, not paying attention. They clipped the draw a little too high, the anchors were a little higher than their rope, and just belayed them off the end of the rope and decked the final ten feet and broke an ankle. And I’m like, “That’s preventable. How can we make an indicator? How can we make it obvious?” Those are the types of things that we’re trying to do.

OnSite

…For years and years, I would think there is a strange disconnect in the climbing industry, where you look at what brands are doing in terms of their advertisement, in terms of what they present to the public—it was almost all outdoor climbing. Very glorified, romanticized, outdoor climbing. I mean, everybody loves the great outdoor climbing shot…And yet, I know, a lot of my friends, they only climb in the gym. So why aren’t these brands showcasing gym climbing in their advertisements and in their promotion? But it does seem like maybe now brands are starting to come along a little bit. I’m starting to see more advertisements that feature gym shots, gym photos, in embrace of this gym culture…Am I correct in sensing that shift?

I think the shift is starting to happen now more so than before. But people—here’s the funny thing—people always want that aspirational goal. Again, statistics, CBJ has done these statistics ad nauseam, CWA. How many people from climbing in the gym are going to actually migrate outside in any given year? It’s not a huge percentage, but it doesn’t mean they don’t all have that aspiration, right? You know, again, twelve-year-old kid reading National Geographic about Reinhold Messner and climbing without oxygen on Everest leads me to put that on a piece of paper that triggers me 18 years later [laughs]. That same thing is true, right? It’s that aspirational goal, and everybody has those. And having that aspirational goal is, I think, what everybody needs to have internally. You need to write those goals down at different points in your life and say, “This is what I want to do.” Climbing in a gym helps you become part of a community…For a lot of people, the climbing gym is their community. And that’s huge, and that’s where value is. Climbing creates those communities, whether it’s the trad community, the sport climbing community, bouldering, gym, alpine…The communities you are tightest with are the communities you are drawn to. And I think that’s the thing we have to always remember about climbing. And what I try and focus on with Trango is we’re about helping build those five communities, and people are always going to transition between them…
Klinke climbing outdoors
“You might know this better than me, but I think it’s 90% of climbers, or 95% of climbers, start their climbing journey in the gym. And most of them now are starting somewhere between the age of seven and twelve, is when they first go to a climbing gym,” Klinke says. “And that is one of the big trends that we’ve seen over the last ten years. 100% of outdoor climbers identify as climbing in a gym as well. Because climbing in a gym helps you train to get stronger for outside. It makes it safer for outside for many people. So being able to address that through the entire cycle is something I want Trango to be able to do.”

…I know you said you’re a gearhead. Real quick, in closing, what gets you most excited about the future of the industry?

…I would love for everything to become faster and lighter. Everybody wants faster and lighter. So, we’re coming out with a new sling, Atomic sling, it’s a new material, lighter than Dyneema, stronger than Dyneema. It’s coming out this fall. Those types of things are fun. And we call it Atomic. And it’s fun and exciting to talk about those types of things and get in on the development and talk about how you get something like that made; those things are fun for us. What I’m most excited about as we move forward is continuing to develop our categories to create compelling products and tell that story of: “Here’s what we’re doing, here’s who we are. We can service you as a facility, as a retail shop, as an online dealer. But we also have to be very cognizant of: “The market itself has shifted.” In the last ten years, more people—If somebody is walking into a climbing gym, 100% chance they’re a climber. If somebody is walking into a specialty outdoor shop, maybe a 1 in 20 chance they’re a climber, maybe a 1 in 30. So, they have different segments within their shops. And then where do most people shop? They buy stuff online. So, we have to make sure we’re educating everybody in a way that is different than the way we used to educate people. And that’s the hard part, because how do you start educating people? How many people now get all their information via online versus walking into a shop and talking to someone. How do you start transitioning? And that has been a big focus for us: “How do we start that education process differently? How do we approach that differently? But at the same time, valuing everybody that we work with?” And again, walking into those shops and talking to people is still the number one goal we have: “How do we help educate our customers, our dealers, on our product, our services. And how do we become effective at that.” And that’s an ongoing process, and it always will be…

Introducing RUSTAM – Available to Preorder Before June 25th

Debuting in North America: Rustam Climbing

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CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Climb Insider: podcasts, gear talk, revenue

image of portland rock gym grip showcase

Just a few thoughts

This week has podcasts galore alongside meaningful articles and videos. We hear how a community almost lost it’s climbing wall. The third installment of invaluable advice about driving business growth. A full walkthrough the newest ABD for leading. Training board frames and award-winning holds. And… the final Olympic Qualifier next week!! See The Freshest Job Posts Here

Community & Culture

Elevate Climbing Walls

Comp Scene

The Gear We Use

For Managers

For Routesetters

OnSite

Training Tips

Direct Youth Programs at Edgeworks – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 June 13

dream job at Edgeworks Climbing Gyms CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Youth Programs Director Edgeworks Bellevue, Seattle, Tacoma, WA “Responsible as the key director and manager of all youth instruction, program development and operations, and ensuring management and training with respect to those programs. The Youth Programs Director works in collaboration with Gym Youth Program Managers, the Owner, the Director of Operations, other senior staff, and directly with Gym Managers to ensure consistent company growth by providing the highest quality experience for program guests and students.”
Trango Holds Pardners

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

101 Essential Skills to Put on a Resume in 2024 By NovoResume “Soft skills, on the other hand, are attributes and habits that describe how you work individually or with others. They are typically not job-specific but rather transferable skills that indirectly help you adapt to the work environment and company culture.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
General Manager at High Altitude Truckee, CA FT – manager
Head Coach at High Altitude Truckee, CA PT – coach, manager
Head Routesetter at Metrorock Boston, MA FT – routesetter
Assistant Head Coach at MetroRock Newburyport, MA PT – coach
Marketing Manager at Climb So iLL St. Louis, MO FT – mktg/sales
Head Coach/Team Manager at Spire Bozeman, MT FT – coach, manager
Level 2 Coach at Mesa Rim Reno, NV PT – coach
Head Coach at Reach Philadelphia, PA FT – coach
General Manager at Momentum Millcreek, UT FT – manager
Gym Manager at The Front Salt Lake City, UT FT – manager
Shop Carpenter at Vertical Solutions Salt Lake City, UT FT – other
Youth Programs Director at Edgeworks Bellevue, Seattle, Tacoma, WA FT – manager
Retail Buyer at Movement Remote FT – mktg/sales

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

NAMETYPELOCATION
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.pngAscent Studiohttps://ascentstudio.com/employment/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.pngBouldering Project (pick location)https://boulderingproject.com/facilityUSA - MN, TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpgCalgary Climbing Centrehttps://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/facilityCanada - AB
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.pngCentral Rock Gymhttps://centralrockgym.com/careers/facilityUSA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.pngEP Climbinghttps://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careersproductUSA - OR - Bend
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.pngFA Climbinghttps://faclimbing.com/careers/facilityUSA - IL, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.pngGuelph Grottohttps://www.guelphgrotto.com/careersfacilityCanada - ON - Guelph
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.pngHead Rush Technologies // TRUBLUEhttps://trublueclimbing.com/about/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.pngHigh Point Climbing & Fitnesshttps://www.highpointclimbing.com/employmentfacilityUSA - AL, TN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.pngMomentumhttps://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLCfacilityUSA - TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.pngMovement Gymshttps://movementgyms.com/careers/facilityUSA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.pngOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.pngStone Agehttps://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/facilityUSA - NM - Albuquerque
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.pngThe Fronthttps://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/facilityUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.pngThe Gravity Vaulthttps://gravityvault.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NJ, NY, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.pngThe Padhttps://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/facilityUSA - CA, NV
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.pngThe Spothttps://www.thespotgym.com/careersfacilitiesUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.pngTrango // Tenayahttps://trango.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.pngTreadwallhttps://treadwallfitness.com/careers/productUSA - MA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.pngTriangle Rock Club (choose location)https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/facilityUSA - NC, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.pngUbergrippenhttps://ugclimbing.com/jobs/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.pngUKC (jobs in UK)https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/organizationUnited Kingdom
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.pngVertical Worldhttps://verticalworld.com/facilityUSA - WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.pngVitalhttps://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NY, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.pngWalltopiahttps://careers.walltopia.com/productsBulgaria

Climbing Partners Add a Third Bouldering Hub in London

City Bouldering owners Serge Semenov and Richard Lawrence at the Stratford gym
Serge Semenov (left) and Richard Lawrence (right) recently opened their third gym together in London, a former garage in the Stratford area that now features 6,997 square feet of climbing. (All photos by Ben Donaghue, courtesy of City Bouldering)

City Bouldering Stratford London, United Kingdom

Specs: City Bouldering Stratford, East London’s newest bouldering gym, opened its doors to UK climbers in late April. Owned and operated by Richard Lawrence and Serge Semenov, City Bouldering is the result of a mutual love of climbing and multi-pitch routes. After sharing a wild adventure in Monsterrat—which included a harrowing first pitch, unexpected rock falls, late night climbing, and finally successful sends—Lawrence said the pair “smiled at each other, knowing we had found a great partner who was equally crazy and loved to push boundaries.”

Atomik Climbing Holds
Lawrence and Semenov found they both wanted to start a new career and identified a shared passion for connecting through travel, nature, and new experiences—a passion that led to the creation of a travel adventure company. “We loved doing it, but we didn’t want to charge people really high amounts of money to do things in nature,” Lawrence shared. So, they eventually decided to close their travel business, turning their attention to starting a bouldering gym instead.
Inside the new City Bouldering Stratford gym
“The building—previously a garage—is big enough for us to create a space which is both social and able to host climbers of all levels, from first timers to those training for big trips,” Lawrence said of the new gym (pictured).
In October 2021, City Bouldering opened its first location in Aldgate, followed by the White City location in April 2022. “The concept for City Bouldering was to create a ‘home base’ for these connections; to spread kindness, meet like-minded people, have fun exercising, and help people be the best version of themselves,” summed up Lawrence. The third location opened in Stratford with a goal of making climbing more accessible in the area and growing the community. According to Lawrence, the new gym is a short walk from “the 7th busiest train station in the country,” in an area that previously didn’t have a commercial climbing gym. Stratford is also near Aldgate and, Lawrence admitted, his home, where he “needed a good center.” “The process of finding climbing walls in London is more limited by the spaces you can find that are affordable,” Lawrence added. “We can’t pay the standard rent levels other businesses do, as climbing just doesn’t generate that much revenue.” Fortunately, the team found a former garage that could house 4.5-meter (14.8-foot) walls and still have room for socializing. “Nestled amongst newer buildings, the site brings together the old and the new with its sawtooth roof, typical of the area’s industrial past, mixed with a modern and spacious design inside,” detailed Lawrence.
Climbing at the new Stratford gym
Climbing programming at the Stratford gym includes weekly “Womens+ Social” and “Beginner Social” events, courses for climbers of all ages, and a summer bouldering league held across the three City Bouldering locations.
While the space fit the team’s vision, repurposing it for climbing came with challenges. “The building had asbestos, a leaking roof, an uneven floor, oil from being a car garage,” Lawrence recalled, “so we had to spend huge amounts to get the planning and bring it into line with leisure standards.” After overcoming those challenges and finishing the build out this year, the team opened a 10,000-square-foot facility that features a variety of bouldering terrainwith over 100 bouldering problemsand a 16-foot Kilter Board. The recently opened gym also has a café, plus “loads of chill out space and an area for kids and beginners,” Lawrence said.
Trango Holds Pardners

Walls: Dreamwall Flooring: Core CRM Software: Rock Gym Pro Website: www.citybouldering.co.uk/locations/stratford Instagram: @CityBoulderingStratford

In Their Words: “Since the opening of the first site in Aldgate, City Bouldering has always looked to drive a sense of community through beginner-friendly socials, events, and contributing to larger philanthropic projects. A third site in Stratford will allow us to grow our community further and put more resources towards our aims of bringing more people to climbing.” – Richard Lawrence, City Bouldering co-founder, co-owner and CEO

Grip Showcase Portland: New Climbing Holds and Volumes of Spring 2024

Grip Showcase Portland

Congrats to SupR, winner of the CBJ Grip Showcase Portland!

There’s nothing quite like an aesthetic wall in a new climbing gym with a path of fresh, colorful holds leading the way up and a community of climbers looking on, ready to crush… That was the scene at the Grip Showcase Portland for the official CWA Summit afterparty. Kudos to Portland Rock Gym for hosting a great event and space for all of us industry insiders to hang out and climb! It was awesome to see so many guest setters—many representing the sponsor brands—accompanying the ace in-house team at PRG. Everyone got to check out the first Titan Boulder in the U.S. while enjoying music, drinks, and good friends. Every hold from every brand was beautiful and professionally made, but we must congratulate SupR for winning the vote for the Grip Showcase Portland Award! Everyone loved climbing on their new Shields family of holds. SupR also won the previous Grip Showcase, so major props are due! SUPR won the 2024 Grip Showcase Portland
  1. SupR (orange) with 3.401 average and 173 5-star ratings
  2. Unleashed (white) with 3.238 average and 132 5-star ratings
  3. Ocelot (blue) with 3.046 average and 113 5-star ratings
  4. Trango (pink) with 2.914 average and 67 5-star ratings
  5. EP (black) with 2.9111 average and 105 5-star ratings
  6. Unit (yellow) with 2.884 average and 72 5-star ratings
  7. Under Blue Hold (white) with 2.873 average and 72 5-star ratings
  8. 360 (black/white) with 2.763 average and 109 5-star ratings
  9. Grizzly (yellow) with 2.761 average and 98 5-star ratings
  10. HRT (yellow) with 2.746 average and 62 5-star ratings
  11. Walltopia (blue) with 2.743 average and 83 5-star ratings
  12. Method (purple) with 2.692 average and 60 5-star ratings
  13. Digital (green) with 2.649 average and 77 5-star ratings
  14. Secret (yellow) with 2.598 average and 49 5-star ratings
  15. Vola (purple) with 2.572 average and 62 5-star ratings
  16. Binary (clear/black) with 2.565 average and 61 5-star ratings
  17. Kingdom (orange) with 2.442 average and 41 5-star ratings
  18. Escape (blue) with 2.440 average and 36 5-star ratings
  19. Rock Candy (pink) with 2.427 (tie) average and 31 5-star ratings
  20. Thrill Seeker (green) with 2.427 (tie) average and 32 5-star ratings
  21. Nicros (yellow) with 2.375 average and 28 5-star ratings
  22. Lacuna (purple) with 2.297 average and 57 5-star ratings
Special thanks to the multitude of routesetters who crafted the sweet boulders: Nickolas Gagliardi (head setter), Payton Hansen, Rob Richter, Anna Bifano, Gabe Olson, Gaby Eck, Holly Yu Tung Chen, Joey Jannsen, Gautier Supper, Nate Gerhardt, Simon Margon, Jack, Dean Privett, Anthony Richard and Tom Wojtkowiak. Don’t miss the next CBJ Grip Showcase, taking place in Salt Lake City at The Front South Main on September 12, during the Setter Summit!
OnSite

#1 SupR

Featured holds from SupR:

#2 Unleashed

Featured holds from Unleashed:

#3 Ocelot

Featured holds from Ocelot:

#4 Trango

Featured holds from Trango:

#5 EP

Featured holds from EP:

#6 Unit

Featured holds from Unit:

#7 Under Blue Hold

Featured holds from Under Blue Hold:

#8 360

Featured holds from 360:

#9 Grizzly

Featured holds from Grizzly:

#10 HRT

Featured holds from HRT:

#11 Walltopia

Featured holds from Walltopia:

#12 Method

Featured holds from Method:

#13 Digital

Featured holds from Digital:

#14 Secret

Featured holds from Secret:

#15 Vola

Featured volumes from Vola:

#16 Binary

Featured holds from Binary:

#17 Kingdom

Featured holds from Kingdom:

#18 Escape

Featured holds and volumes from Escape:

#19 (tie) Rock Candy

Featured holds and volumes from Rock Candy:

#19 (tie) Thrill Seeker

Featured holds from Thrill Seeker:

#21 Nicros

Featured holds and volumes from Nicros:

#22 Lacuna

Featured holds from Lacuna:

Trango Hires Roy Quanstrom as Facility Sales Coordinator

image of roy quanstrom Trango, the Colorado-based designer and manufacturer of premier climbing gear and holds, is proud to announce that Roy Quanstrom has joined the brand as Facility Sales Coordinator. The Facility Sales Coordinator position is new for Trango. There are 657 commercial gyms in the US and a total of 1390 “wall accounts” (commercial gyms plus rec center and universities with climbing walls). Quanstrom will be working with Trango’s independent sales teams to enhance the relationship within these communities and organizations.   “Working with the Trango team and our gym partners is really a dream job for me,” says Quanstrom. “I’m very excited about Trango’s climbing hold development, especially with our new line of ABS recyclable holds that are made from recycled materials. We offer more material options than any other brand, with a focus on sustainability and I’m proud to be part of it.” image of roy quanstrom Quanstrom brings a strong background in climbing holds, routesetting (he’s a USAC Level 4 routesetter), as well as extensive sales and retail experience. He has been working as a Trango Holds Shaper since 2020; his hold designs include the popular Fuegos Calientes and Khans. Quanstrom is also known for his excellent climbing skills; one of the prerequisites for Level 4 routesetting is that you must be able to forerun 5.13+ and V9.  “Roy is a great addition to our team,” says Trango Vice President, Keith Patterson. “His knowledge and experience with holds and setting, as well as his relationships with setters, mesh well with Trango’s focus on deepening partnerships with gyms. Roy’s expertise in leading routesetter training clinics also positions him well when it comes to training our sales force on the hold market. We have high expectations for Roy and are confident he will be successful. We are excited to have Roy join our team.”   About Trango Founded in Boulder, Colorado in 1991, Trango is an athlete-driven brand, dedicated to challenging the status quo of climbing and to advancing indoor gym technology. In addition to designing and producing premier climbing equipment, Trango is the sole US distributor for Tenaya climbing shoes. At Trango, we create innovative equipment that climbers trust. Our company is passionate about solution-oriented products that help climbers pursue the sport we love. You can count on Trango gear to deliver something extra, something special, that will contribute to your climbing adventure, indoors or out. 
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Movement Climbing, Yoga and Fitness Partners with Access Fund to Promote Responsible Climbing Practices

Movement and Access Fund join forces to conserve outdoor spaces and work promote responsible climbing habits and sustainability within the climbing community

movement x access fund header

Denver, CO (PRUnderground) June 5th, 2024 – Movement Climbing, Yoga and Fitness, the nation’s largest climbing gym operator, is thrilled to announce its partnership with Access Fund, the national advocacy organization that leads and inspires the climbing community toward sustainable access and conservation of the climbing environment, as a part of their Move with Purpose program. This collaboration aims to promote environmental stewardship and responsible climbing practices within the climbing community.

“I am beyond delighted to announce a new partnership between Movement Climbing, Yoga, and Fitness and Access Fund,” said Heather Thorne, Executive Director of Access Fund. “Throughout the coming year, we will work together to connect with climbers everywhere and help them have access to the tools, resources, and education they need to become the next generation of outdoor climbing advocates. As the first step of the partnership, Movement will be featured as the matching donor for Access Fund’s June match campaign. Running from June 3-14, this digital campaign will champion Movement as a leader in this space and will be marketed to climbers across the country, inviting them to join Movement in making a meaningful donation to help advance Access Fund’s work to mentor climbers about responsible outdoor ethics. As one of the largest gym communities in the country, I admire Movement’s focus on climbing access and conservation both in the gym space and beyond, and am grateful for their support and partnership in the year to come.” With the recent launch of the Move with Purpose program, Movement seeks to reduce barriers of access to those who haven’t been able to experience the transformative effects of climbing, and to preserve the spaces in which the community recreates. Through this partnership with Access Fund, Movement hopes to further their mission of creating a positive impact on both individuals and the environment. “Having experienced Access Fund’s impact at my local crags, I firmly believe we must protect the places we love,” said Stephanie Ko, Movement COO and an avid climber of 25 years. “This partnership with Access Fund is a natural extension of Movement’s commitment to sustainability and responsible climbing. Together, we’ll inspire our community to be environmental stewards, ensuring these beautiful areas are preserved for future generations.” This partnership between Movement and Access Fund is a testament to the growing awareness and importance of environmental protection in the climbing community. Together, they hope to make a positive impact and preserve the beauty of our natural climbing areas. For more information on the Move with Purpose program and how to get involved, visit Movement’s Move with Purpose website. About Movement Movement is the largest nationwide community of indoor climbing gyms. Every Movement facility is committed to growing the climbing community through a shared vision to empower personal transformation. Movement gyms feature bouldering, top-roping, and lead climbing, as well as amenities like yoga studios, functional fitness, cardio zones, and climbing gear shops. Each facility caters to participants of all abilities – from competitive athletes to weekend adventurers and families. Learn more at www.movementgyms.com
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Prefabricated Climbing Walls for Training Boards 2024

Climbing Walls for Training Boards - a CBJ Buyer's Guide
The frame is an essential component of modern training boards. As the prevalence of training boards in climbing gyms increases, so too do the quantity and quality of prefabricated walls on the market. (All images courtesy of the respective brand)
[Editor’s Note: This article was first published on February 25, 2022, and was updated on June 7, 2024, to reflect changes in the training boards market.] Installing a training board in a climbing facility has become a no-brainer. With just a small footprint of space, and powered by app and LED technology, your customers can train on thousands of new boulder problems. No routesetter required. Choosing your hold system may be the first step, but next it’s time to decide what to do about the wall and frame itself. True, it’s possible to make do with DIY walls, and many gyms opt for that solution. However, there are many prefabricated, engineered walls on the market offering a level of professional quality and advanced features that are difficult for DIYers to implement on their own.
Rockwerx
Here are factors to consider when choosing a training board wall:
  1. SIZE: How much room do you have? For years the standard wall size has been 8×12 feet, but other sizes are available, from micro 6×7 to huge 16×14 frames. Most of these walls are designed to fit within a typical bouldering gym ceiling height of 15 feet, and some sizes even fit within a garage.
  2. ANGLES: What angles do you want to provide your customers? Typically boards have been in the 25°-40° range, but today’s frames often push that range to 10°-60° and even further. Vertical and slab boards are growing in popularity, too.
  3. ADJUSTABILITY: How does the wall change angles, if at all? Hand crank, or electronic system? The adjustability of the frame has a huge impact on your customer’s experience, and it’s also a major driver of the cost of the wall.
  4. STRUCTURE: Is the frame freestanding or attached to an existing structure? What is best for your long-term use? Both options have pros and cons.
  5. BUDGET: A new training board is not a trivial expense, and so the cost of the system and perhaps the availability of financing options matters.
Below are several options on the market today for prefabricated training board walls.
OnSite
All details above are accurate as of the publishing date. However, there is constant innovation with these products, and new options may have been added or prices may have changed since then. Pricing below excludes taxes and delivery.

FULL-SIZE CLIMBING TRAINING BOARD FRAMES


BenkyFrame

  • First sold: 2021
  • Available extras: custom angles, padding options, professional installation
  • Pricing: starts at €15,000
Learn more about the BenkyFrame at www.benkyclimbing.com

Digital Board

  • First sold: 2017
  • Available extras: any size/shape of wall can be digitized
  • Pricing: starts at £750
Learn more about the Digital Board at digital-climbing.com/digital-brand-board/

Eldo Board

  • First sold: 2021
  • Available extras: padding options, professional installation, indoors or outdoors
  • Pricing: starts at $15,995
Learn more about the Eldo Board at www.eldowalls.com

Grasshopper Adjustable Climbing Wall

  • First sold: 2019
  • Available extras: XL sizes by conjoining walls, custom CNC panels, padding options, professional installation
  • Pricing: starts at $6,700, with financing available through SweetPay
Learn more about Grasshopper Adjustable Climbing Walls at www.grasshopperclimbing.com

Kumiki EverActive® & EverActive® Jr Adjustable Walls

  • First sold: 2019
  • Available extras: custom color frame/panels, padding options, professional installation
  • Protected by U.S. Patent 10,918,925 (patent pending for EverActive Jr)
  • Pricing: starts at $4,999, with financing available through Navitas
Learn more about Kumiki EverActive® Adjustable Walls at www.kumikiclimbing.com

LEMUR Design Adjustable Wall

  • First sold: 2019
  • Available extras: custom sizes, panels marked for Kilter Board holds, padding options, professional installation
  • Pricing: starts at $7,056, with financing options
Learn more about LEMUR Design Adjustable Walls at www.lemurdesign.ca or at www.settercloset.com Moonboard

Freestanding MoonBoard

  • First sold: 2015
  • Available extras: padding options
  • Pricing: starts at £9,000
Learn more about the Freestanding MoonBoard at www.moonclimbing.com Nectar Board

Nectar Board

  • First sold: 09/2023
  • Available extras: light-up hold set (coming Fall/Winter 2024)
  • Pricing: starts at $34,000
Learn more about the Nectar Board at www.nectarclimbing.com

OnSite Training Wall

  • First sold: 2020
  • Available extras: custom sizes, padding options, professional installation; standard set at 55 degrees, inquire for a steeper angle
  • Pricing: starts at $2,325
Learn more about Onsite Training Walls at www.theonsite.com

Revival Adjustable Climbing Wall

  • First sold: 2021
  • Available extras: digital electronics, custom-sized padding, professional installation
  • Pricing: starts at $5,000, with financing available through SweetPay
Learn more about the Revival Adjustable Climbing Wall at www.revivalclimbing.com

Vertical Solutions Adjustable Training Platform

  • First sold: 2021
  • Available extras: custom sizes, padding options, required professional installation (nationwide)
  • Pricing: starts at $30,000, with financing options
Learn more about the Vertical Solutions Adjustable Training Platform at www.vsclimbinggyms.com

Walltopia Adjustable Angle Board

  • First sold: 2017
  • Available extras: padding options, professional installation, holds, routesetting, touchscreen tablet upgrade for angle control
  • Pricing: starts at €17,500
Learn more about the Walltopia Adjustable Angle Board at  walltopia.com/products/training-boards/
Atomik Climbing Holds

COMPACT CLIMBING TRAINING BOARD FRAMES


ArtLine Homewall

  • First sold: 2021
  • Available extras: hold/volume packages
  • Pricing: starts at €1,550
Learn more about the ArtLine Homewall at www.artline-holds.com

Escape Climbing Freestanding Board

  • First sold: 2018
  • Available extras: padding and holds; DIY panels
  • Pricing: starts at $4,699
Learn more about the Escape Climbing Freestanding Board at escapeclimbing.com

Interface Ground-Up Wall

  • First sold: 2020
  • Available extras: padding options, hold packages
  • Pricing: starts at £1,045
Learn more about Interface Ground-Up Walls at www.interfaceclimbing.com

Rockstar Volumes Rocket Wall

  • First sold: 2020
  • Available extras: padding options, hold packages
  • Pricing: starts at $1,700, with financing available through Affirm
Learn more about Rockstar Volumes Rocket Walls at www.rockstarvolumes.com

Treadwall Boulderboard® Training Station

  • First sold: 2010
  • Available extras: hangboard attachment, upgrade for outdoor use, hold packages, professional installation
  • Pricing: starts at $1,250
Learn more about the Treadwall Boulderboard® Training Station at www.treadwallfitness.com  
Editor’s Note: ArtLine, Benky, Digital, Eldorado, Grasshopper, Kumiki, LEMUR, OnSite, Revival, Rockstar, Treadwall, Vertical Solutions and Walltopia are financial supporters of CBJ.

Beloved Routesetter Lee Hansche Dies in Tragic Climbing Gym Accident

Routesetting equipment in the gym [Editor’s Note: This article was written with Holly Yu Tung Chen] Lee Hansche, 46, of Allenstown, New Hampshire, died on May 21, 2024, following an accident at Vertical Dreams in Manchester, New Hampshire. A post on Hansche’s Instagram profile indicated the accident took place while Hansche was routesetting. According to information in a news report on Patch.com, Hansche fell from a height of 40 to 60 feet. Manchester Fire and AMR responded to Vertical Dreams and transported Hansche to Elliot Hospital, where he succumbed to his injuries. Per the news report, Manchester Police have confirmed the fall, and Vertical Dreams confirmed Hansche’s passing in a Facebook post. While details of the accident are still unknown, according to the news report the U.S. Department of Labor has confirmed that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) has opened an inspection of Vertical Dreams to determine if any violations of workplace safety standards contributed to the incident. The investigation is ongoing and could take up to six months to complete. Vertical Dreams has not yet responded to requests for comment. If the OSHA investigation indeed confirms the accident happened while routesetting, to our knowledge at CBJ it would mark the first death of a routesetter on the job that’s been confirmed in the U.S., highlighting the inherent risks of climbing even in a relatively safe environment of an indoor gym. (Routesetting work at height requires special training. The Climbing Wall Association has a Work at Height Certification, and proper gear is always essential.)

A Steward of the Climbing Community

Hansche was a cherished member of the New Hampshire and Rumney climbing community, known for his unwavering commitment to bettering the community. Not only was he a professional routesetter, Hansche was also a Manager at Vertical Dreams where, according to the gym’s Facebook post, he had dedicated 20 years of his life. At Vertical Dreams, Hansche mentored countless young climbers and made everyone feel at home. A friend of Hansche’s commented on Instagram, remembering when he taught Summer Camp campers how to set routes, and many others chimed in to remember moments when Hansche extended a helping hand. His impact also extended beyond the walls of the gym, with his influence felt in the wider climbing world. Hansche’s work on the Gunks Apps, First Ascent Podcast, and route development and maintenance in Rumney are among his many contributions to the community. Hansche’s first contribution to Mountain Project dates back to 2007, and he was also a contributor to Common Climber. A true steward of the climbing community, Hansche’s legacy is not limited to his climbing achievements. Friends say Hansche was also a passionate conservationist, particularly dedicated to bird conservation. Hansche worked with the New Hampshire Audubon, assisting in banding peregrine falcons and educating others about these magnificent birds. His efforts helped raise awareness and foster a deeper appreciation for avian wildlife among those he mentored. Tributes to Hansche have flooded social media platforms and forums, including on Mountain Project, Instagram, Facebook, Reddit and Google Groups, where gym members and fellow climbers have shared heartfelt messages remembering his generosity, friendship and mentorship. “Climbing was Lee and Lee was climbing,” wrote Jay Knower, a friend and co-host of First Ascent Podcast. “But as good as he was on the rock, and he was excellent on the rock, he was an even better person. He had kindness. Not the surface facade of kindness, but kindness all the way down to his core. And he had a sense of service. He gave to the community in so many ways.” “His passion for climbing was contagious and he openly shared his sport with anyone who happened to walk through the door,” read Vertical Dream’s Facebook post. “He embodied a spirit of inclusivity and fostered a place where people felt at home—no matter your age, ability, or experience.” Hansche’s contributions to both the climbing and conservation communities were vast and varied. His dedication to bolting and maintaining routes ensured that climbers could enjoy safe and challenging experiences. Simultaneously, his work with the NH Audubon brought attention to the importance of bird conservation, showcasing his diverse interests and commitment to making a difference. A memorial fund at GoFundMe has been set up in honor of Hansche, with donations going to the Central NH Climbers’ Association and Rumney Climbers’ Association, and a memorial page for Hansche at Roan Family Funeral Home can be found here. Other coverage of this story has been published at Gripped and GearJunkie.