2024 has been an exhilarating year for the holds sector of the climbing gym industry. Despite the ongoing challenges of an ever-shifting economy, climbing gyms and routesetters have been continuing to put their best foot forward, and so have the hold businesses and shapers powering the core product within those gyms. As 2024 unfolds, it’s clear that many suppliers in the industry are no longer just rebounding from the pandemic—they’re charging ahead.
Setters’ needs have been evolving rapidly as the sport of climbing continues to grow and diversify, driven in part by shifting trends in competition formats, training methodologies, and a broader range of climber demographics. This growth has been putting pressure on suppliers to keep up with the evolving needs of modern climbing spaces, compelling many hold companies and shapers to innovate at a breakneck speed to stay competitive in their craft.
Lead and production times for new grips have largely returned to pre-pandemic norms, making it easier for gyms to quickly equip a setting team with the latest creations. On the other hand, shipping costs around the industry have reportedly continued to increase, due to myriad national and global factors, so brands and gyms have been looking for new ways to keep costs down.
In 2024, big macros and fiberglass shapes have still been setter favorites—from World Cups to local gyms—but jibs, screw-ons and micro-holds seem to be re-entering the mainstream zeitgeist after arguably sitting quietly in the background for years; this year, we have seen smaller shapes take up a larger portion of the hold catalogs at multiple leading brands. 3D modeling and scanning technology also appears to be becoming a more common tool among shapers. And more brands of late have been leveraging vacuum-thermoforming technology (VTF) to further lighten holds, decrease shipping costs, and incorporate new eco-friendly options into their lineup.
On the international stage, the biggest excitement of 2024 was, of course, the Paris Olympics. The routes and boulders testing the world’s best climbers featured a number of fresh grips from top brands, putting a global spotlight on the new shapes, styles, technology and innovations that have been pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in modern competition and gym climbing.
The CBJ Grip List Survey responses have become more global practically every year, and that trend continued in 2024: For the first time ever, a higher percentage of votes came from outside the United States (55%) than within the United States (45%). Setter voting from Europe, in particular, rose to an all-time high in 2024 (35%). In addition to honoring industry titans, the Grip List this year features some promising up-and-comers and the first-ever Favorite New Brand and Favorite Shaper awards. The homewall categories, on the other hand, were not included in this year’s survey; instead, we devoted space to asking setters around the globe about the recent trends they’ve been seeing in routesetting of late. Be sure to stay tuned to CBJ for those results, in a forthcoming follow-up to last year’s routesetting trends article.
Now that Paris 2024 is in the rearview mirror and climbing and paraclimbing athletes are chasing the dream of Los Angeles 2028, gyms and hold brands alike are looking toward the horizon. A special thanks goes to all the shapers who bring these holds to life, the routesetters who design our favorite problems (and cast their votes), and all the professionals and climbers who continue to shape the future of climbing. Your passion is what makes this industry thrive.
AVA – BLOCZ – CHEETA – DAN YAGMIN – DECOY – FLATHOLD – KAYA/PLASTICK – KILTER – OCELOT – STŌKT – SUPR – TEKNIK
Setter’s Choice Holds – 5th Place
TEKNIK
You would be hard pressed to walk into a setting closet and not see Teknik shapes sitting on the shelves. From the team’s simplistic and effective shaping philosophy to its hilarious hold names, Teknik is no stranger to the Grip List, having won 13 awards in the Grip List’s 11-year history. The passion brought forth by Seth and Zoe Johnston, owners and shapers of Teknik, keeps producing results that setters value.
In an increasingly competitive holds sector, the Johnstons seem unfazed, nor do they feel the need to have a flashier brand. They prefer to stick to the no-frills approach that has brought them success, even keeping their old-school website because of how easy it is for setters to navigate. Nonetheless, the Johnstons are by no means stuck in the past; both shapers are still avid outdoor and gym climbers, and their continued presence in the gyms keeps them current of evolutions in setting and shaping, said Zoe.
When it comes to shaping, the Johnstons told CBJ that they rely primarily on their climbing instincts for guidance. “We pretty much just make things that we ourselves would want to climb on,” said Zoe, “and happily it turns out that lots of other people want to climb on them too.” In addition to producing their classic shapes that are still appreciated by setters today, the pair have recently been introducing more low-profile shapes (like the Micro Elytra grips) and larger shapes (like the Longy Long Tall Pinchi Pinches) to round out their catalog.
In short, Zoe and Seth continue to rely on their 25 years of experience in the climbing industry to inform their philosophy of focusing on basic, utilitarian and highly functional shapes for all occasions. Comments from this year’s Grip List Survey show that setters love Teknik because of their classic, essential and versatile grips.
When we asked whether Teknik had introduced new shapers to the company, their response brought laughter: “Just us, Seth and Zoe. Have we mentioned so far that we reaaaally love climbing holds?”
Hear From the Setters Who Love Teknik:
“Having simple, understandable holds is still key to making effective edits on short timelines.”
– Blake Green, Head Setter, Goat Climbing Gym, USA
“I love the texture, and their simplicity—they get the job done without needing any fancy shapes, dual-tex, etc.”
– Ethan Moore, Head Setter, Active Climbing LLC, USA
“Teknik isn’t a flashy company, but they pretty much make the best holds of every style—jugs (Supervillains), crimps (Meatlets) and mini-jugs (Runts).”
– Micah Kogan, Routesetter, The Spot Gyms, USA
Setter’s Choice Holds – 4th Place
DECOY
Decoy continues to solidify its reputation for unique and innovative designs. After winning two Grip List wards in 2023, the brainchild of New England climber, artist and setter Dan Yagmin returned to the Top 5 for a second year in a row.
Yagmin told CBJ last year that his approach to running the company is not focused on aggressive growth or becoming a massive enterprise. That philosophy has not changed: “We do our best to treat our hold catalog as you would an art portfolio,” he told CBJ this year, “where one attempts to only put their best work forward.”
The Decoy team prefers to simplify and downsize where possible. “We do this by editing sets/removing ones that did not work well,” said Yagmin, “and by replacing them with new ones that fit the line in a more suitable way, or that function in the way we had intended.” Yagmin is committed to refining his current product lines, improving existing shapes, and prioritizing the quality and artistry of his brand over sheer volume of options.
Another focus at Decoy has been forming lasting relationships with customers. With just a small team of two or three employees, it’s no small feat. The results in the main vote and the new Favorite Shaper category this year show that even in an increasingly competitive market for holds and shapers, setters know Yagmin by name.
Since last year’s awards, Decoy has been steadfast in building its presence on the gym scene. Shortly after the 2023 Grip List results were announced, Decoy released several more shapes in the Rollies family, created in tandem with TJ Kelly, the previous Head Setter at the Denver Bouldering Club. Some of the poly fiber macros added to the original line include the Rollie DT Raised Rails, Rollie Stumps, Rollie Scoops, and other medium-to-large pieces created for both commercial and competition sets. The new shapes have been getting attention, with multiple routesetters mentioning the expanded line and showing praise for it in this year’s Grip List Survey.
“Some of these shapes were created using the 3D program Z-Brush,” Yagmin told us. Other shapes created through that program include the Rollie Micro Stumps, Rollie Pancake Jibs, Rollie Symm Crimps and Rollie Symm Pinches—as well as 90% of the Decoy Board shapes. According to Yagmin, leveraging 3D shaping technology has allowed the Decoy team to easily produce symmetrical, mirrored shapes with even greater precision. “[This is] a newer innovation in our shaping repertoire that we hope to be incorporating into more of our workflow in upcoming years,” said Yagmin.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Decoy:
“Ergonomic above all.”
– Sidney Dunn, Routesetter, Urban Climb, USA
“Great ergonomics, and absolutely beautiful visually. Also, better price point than other companies with comparable hold quality.”
– Stephen Sallemi, Routesetter, Metro Rock Climbing Gym, USA
“Comfortable grips, great texture to grab onto, and the usage is endless!”
– Sunkook Iwasaki, Routesetter, Movement, USA
Setter’s Choice Holds – 3rd Place
Favorite Board System
KILTER
Kilter is owned by industry titans Jackie Hueftle and Ian Powell, and in the decade plus time that Kilter has been around, they have created what is likely the largest catalog of holds and macros in the world, with over 7,000+ shapes. Kilter has also accumulated a whopping two dozen Grip List awards over the years—a number that keeps climbing.
“Ergonomic” is a word that pops up more than any other word when setters talk about Kilter in the Grip List Survey comments, both in reference to Kilter’s holds and macros as well as Kilter Board holds. That aspect of Hueftle and Powell’s vision is one of the factors the duo attributes to Kilter being the most decorated brand in Grip List history, alongside the brand’s versatility.
“Kilter is about designing systems of holds for routesetters to create whatever they are trying to create for their customer base,” Hueftle told CBJ. While Kilter is known for producing bold, eye-catching holds with large footprints, there’s an understanding at the company that climbing gyms require a wide range of holds in all sizes. According to Hueftle, the team at Kilter works diligently to ensure that their series offer variety and depth, even among smaller holds.
In late 2023, Kilter shaper Jimmy Webb introduced new dual-texture holds that made appearances in several World Cup competitions, alongside Powell’s Dual-Tex Sandstone holds. After being chosen for the Tokyo Games, Kilter’s grips appeared in the Olympic Qualifier Series Budapest 2024 event leading up to the Paris Games.
In 2024, Kilter finally launched its highly anticipated VTF Comp Holds, in tandem with sister brand Urban Plastix and partner Binary Holds. Praised for being light, strong and easily maneuverable, the holds were used in both international and local competitions.
Another familiar presence in the Grip List awards is the Kilter Board. After the board was first released in 2018, the training board hold system became a mainstay in both the Grip List awards and gyms across the world. Since the Favorite Board System vote began in 2021, Kilter has taken home the award every year. The board’s popularity is born in no small part from meticulous design and countless months of experimentation, Hueftle told CBJ.
“We tested holds and versions of the layout for over a year before releasing the Original Kilter Board,” said Hueftle. “We had climbers of all sizes and abilities, from newbie computer programmers to top-tier pros, climb on our Kilter Board prototype at different angles and help us tweak and test over and over until we were happy.”
The team at Kilter repeated that process for the HW Fullride layout, but they did it in six months rather than a year, having learned essential lessons from the first time around, and likewise for the current 10×12 configuration. Additionally, Kilter recently completed an expansion of the original layout, resulting in a wider 16×12 Original Kilter Board alongside the 10×12 HW Fullride Kilter Board, providing more variety and versatility.
The board’s appeal to both rental-shoe-wearing newcomers to Olympians was evident in the Grip List Survey comments. Hueftle and Powell described for us their goal to design a board that would appeal to as many people as possible, and they expressed satisfaction with the final outcome.
“Overall we’ve been very happy with how the Original Kilter Board has remained fun over time. The problem database keeps growing with new climbs and we love seeing everyone’s send videos online,” they told us.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Kilter Holds:
“Simple, large shapes and nice blocker pairs.”
– Tom Llyod, Chief Routesetter & Freelance Routesetter, Climbing Hut, Europe
“Long lasting, great texture and durability. Large variety of shapes /styles.”
– Andrew Boere, Head Setter, Basecamp Adventures Wanaka, Australia
“The attention to detail in every single series, family, and individual hold is next to none…The absolute obsessive detail that can be found in any hold from the granite complex series still bows my mind. I’m always finding a new way to interact with these holds as both a climber and a setter, and that’s a really special thing.”
– Val Gross, Head Setter, AZ On The Rocks, USA
Hear From the People Who Love Kilter Boards:
“It’s pretty. It’s also the most user-friendly and has jugs. The clientele at our gym don’t demand outdoor style training, so it would fit our demographic best.”
– Wendy Beio, Routesetter, MW Climbing, USA
“The board is everything you want: adjustable, huge variety, well set, ergonomic, and hard when it needs to be but easy enough to warm up on.”
– John Wilder, Director of Facilities, Movement, USA
“It’s big. Holds are ergonomic, and the board has circuits.”
– Travis Rangi, Head Routesetter, Boulder Co, Australia
Setter’s Choice Holds – 2nd Place
CHEETA
Cheeta started in the 1990s in a French barn alongside barrels of the world’s best wines. Founder Laurent Laporte, a climber and competitor who began shaping holds to train with his friends, has since brought the company to global acclaim in the climbing industry.
The team at Cheeta told CBJ that they attribute the popularity of the brand to the setters and endless creativity within the industry. Cheeta’s philosophy is allowing setters to “shape the movement,” and they’ve strived to follow that approach since day one and continue to do so today. “We are always trying to innovate,” Pierre Mellot told CBJ, “to create the shapes and variations to make setting a fun and innovative game. We want to help setters push the boundaries.”
“We’re certain there still are plenty of great movements to be shaped out there,” Matéo Laporte told us last year.
“Routesetting is a team work, and so is shaping,” added Mellot. The majority of the Cheeta team consists of routesetters, who often find themselves lacking the right product to fine tune a desired movement or intensity. So, the setters at Cheeta aim to fill in those gaps themselves.
With that objective in mind, they worked on new ways at Cheeta to make setters’ jobs easier and broaden the possibility of new movement ahead of the Paris Games. Recently, the team explored different material combinations, leading to the creation of a new “Hybrid” category of grips at the company. By combining polyurethane (PU), fiberglass, plywood and thermoplastic, they aim to harness the strengths of each material while minimizing their drawbacks. The concept is a step away from the traditional categories of holds, macros and volumes, and the team at Cheeta hope it will spark a “small revolution.”
The first of these new products are the Link Hybrid and Sky-Base ranges. Link Hybrid grips, for example, consist of PU with a wooden plate, designed with stacking, easy screw-ins and adaptable angles in mind. The wood addresses the common issue of screwing into PU or fiberglass, and the plates can be replaced as needed, so the product can last longer. More Hybrid ranges are expected soon.
These connectors are particularly suited for use with the Shaperiders line and two newly launched ranges, the Odyssey and Stadiums—both of which were specifically designed for the Paris Olympics. Building on the Shaperiders concept, the new Odyssey and Stadium lines are crafted to fit onto Shaperider bases, offering greater flexibility and variety. Both ranges feature “open” designs intended to foster the dynamic, visually spectacular moves that are a staple of competition climbing.
Laurent Laporte, a renowned international routesetter, and Nicolas Marat are the creative minds behind the brand’s latest products. Laporte, the founder of Cheeta, contributes his extensive experience in routesetting and organic shaping, having designed all the shapes up until 2023. Marat, who joined the team last year, complements Laporte’s expertise with his skills in design software, 3D scanning, and modeling. Routesetters must be appreciating the end result of their teamwork: This year, Cheeta earned its highest finish in the main Grip List vote since 2019.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Cheeta:
“Great mix of commercially comfy and competition excitement.”
– Alexandra Fox, Director of Routesetting, Ascent, USA
“A nice balance of usable surface and dual-tex. I haven’t found any of the holds to be painful to hold.”
– Sara Meehan-Mainich, Routesetter, Central Rock Climbing, USA
“Multiple great sets which are incredibly versatile and visually pleasing, made with the best PU on the market but still very affordable.”
– Victor Meulendijks, Chief Setter, Mountain Network, Europe
Setter’s Choice Holds – 1st Place (Grand Prize)
All-Time Favorite Holds
Favorite Macros
FLATHOLD
Flathold, a brand co-led by Manuel Hassler and Mathieu Achermann, thrives on the complementary partnership between the two. They took home multiple Grip List awards in 2023 and they’re back for more, defending all three of their titles in the Favorite Holds, All-Time Favorite Holds and Favorite Macros categories. It’s the second Grand Prize for the company, and Flathold has yet to be unseated in the Favorite Macros vote, since it started five years ago.
As equal partners in the business, Hassler and Achermann share responsibility for the brand’s growth and development. Hassler takes the lead on research, development and technical aspects, while Achermann focuses on marketing and communication. Both are also involved in shaping the holds themselves. The duo pointed to their close collaboration as a key factor in Flathold’s success over the years. Achermann told CBJ that they’ve rarely faced conflicts in over 15 years of working together, with important decisions made through smooth and open communication, a hallmark of their partnership.
One of the big innovations at Flathold recently was the UTURN modular macros that launched late last year, which was a prominent fixture in the Paris Games. UTURN offers routesetters the ability to move fiberglass shapes on a spherical surface, allowing for precise adjustments.
Flathold has always been influenced by competition climbing, Achermann told CBJ. Hassler, a longtime IFSC routesetter, draws much of his inspiration from his professional experiences in the field. Hassler’s professional needs in setting high-level, challenging and dynamic routes often inspire new ideas, especially after returning from setting projects. As a result, Flathold’s product development has been shaped by Hassler’s vision to create practical and innovative shapes for any context, from local commercial gyms to international competition stages.
After spending recent years exploring new processes and technologies—including the development of the UTURN system—the Flathold team shifted its focus this year back to their core expertise: shaping innovative climbing holds. The decision reflects a return to fundamentals after the complex UTURN project. They introduced the Floating Point family in 2024, a new range of macros shaped by Achermann, along with an extension of their classic Lucha Libre line, shaped by Hassler.
The concept behind the latter stemmed from a desire to further explore dual texture, focusing on a more organic feel rather than a sharply defined surface. The initial inspiration came when Hassler collaborated with Laurent Laporte to shape the 2018 range for Cheeta, where they experimented with organic textures. Hassler later refined this idea for Flathold’s Lucha Libre line, using slightly different techniques to achieve the fine, organic texture that has since become a hallmark of the series.
As for the Floating Point macros, Achermann’s goal was to build on the long, thin forms he had previously developed for the Borderline series. Unlike the round, sloping shapes of Borderline, Floating Point features curved ramps designed to challenge climbers by pushing them toward the edges of the holds. While basic dual-texture macros are common in the industry and innovation in this area can be difficult, the goal was not to create something entirely new but to extend the options of essential shapes that are crucial for routesetters.
In 2025, Flathold is expected to release an increased number of grips, following the team’s significant time in the workshop this year. “2025 should be a prolific year in terms of holds,” said Achermann.
Flathold has also brought on a new external shaper, Yoris Delahay, who previously worked for SNAP. His contributions mark the first time a Flathold range may come from an external shaper, signaling a new chapter for the brand.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Flathold:
“Great use of usable surface and aesthetics.”
– Shi hui Tan, Head Setter and Gym Owner, Lighthouse Climbing, Singapore
“Rustic, clean, functional, modern. They haven’t released many new shapes recently, but there is no need. They hit it out of the ballpark with their current selection.”
– Aaron Young, Head Routesetter, Rockfish Climbing, USA
“Flathold is willing to push the limits of what a hold can be while having some great classic shapes.”
– Yan Mijatovic, Routesetting Apprentice, Alta Climbing, USA
Favorite Wood Volumes
BLOCZ
For a fifth straight year, Blocz brings home the Favorite Wood Volumes award in the Grip List.
The design process behind the company’s products is rooted in hands-on experimentation and extensive real-world testing. From the outset, the team dedicated significant time to evaluating their volumes in both large commercial gyms and smaller facilities, striving for high performance across diverse conditions. Collaborating closely with routesetters, gym owners and climbers of various skill levels, the company gathered a wide array of feedback to refine their products. Input from setters who use their volumes daily has been instrumental in the team shaping new, exciting challenges for climbers.
After nearly a decade of development, the brand has earned a reputation for crafting some of the most durable volumes on the market. In the Grip List Survey comments this year, setters showed appreciation not only for Blocz’s unique designs, but also for the ability of Blocz’s volumes to be put through the wringer. Cited as having top-notch texture, robust joints, high-quality t-nuts and solid construction, the volumes have consistently stood up to the wear and tear of busy climbing gyms.
Before looking ahead to 2025, the Blocz team has been looking back on 2024 with pride. Their collaboration with Unit Holds has already been living up to expectations. Additionally, the use of Blocz’s wood volumes during the Olympic Games marked a highlight of the year for the company. And the introduction of new wood volumes, especially the Giants of the Deep series, has been receiving positive feedback from professional setters. The set includes 10 volumes in three groups of sizes: Orca, Shark and Dolphin. The largest Orca volumes measure five-and-a-half feet in length.
“The uniqueness of these volumes lies in their non-uniform geometry,” Verena Keim at Blocz told CBJ. Keim also pointed out how the “dynamic edges” feature of the volumes provide a variety of gripping positions that require a higher level of precision from the climber.
The Blocz team has several exciting developments in the pipeline. They have redesigned their square volumes, which will debut this month at the Vertical Pro trade show. In 2025, they plan to revamp their rectangle volumes to improve how they function as a cohesive set. Additionally, the team is set to introduce a new line of macros and holds called Esperantos, featuring a blend of round and angular shapes. The Fontaineblocz line will soon be available in PE, and their popular Bird Macros will be expanded with new shapes, along with matching footholds.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Blocz:
“Basic to weird, it’s all good!”
– Molly Beard, Head Setter, Brimstone Boulders, USA
“Their unique shapes and early adoption of no-tex has them producing some high-quality products.”
– Marc Akbar, Routesetter, Climbing Collective, USA
“Great texture and designs, and tons of bolt-on options as well, which I wish more companies would include.”
– Danny Howard, Director of Setting, Rock Spot Climbing, USA
Favorite Routesetting App
KAYA/PLASTICK
Only one brand has won the Favorite Routesetting App award in the Grip List, and that trend continued in 2024, with KAYA/PLASTICK topping the vote for a third consecutive edition. Over the past year, the team at KAYA has stayed focused on one of the company’s core goals: providing features designed to empower climbing gyms with data, so they can better enhance the experiences of their members.
When it comes to routesetting, the two parts of the platform address both sides of that equation: In PLASTICK, setters can plan sets and the distribution of climbs in a gym; in KAYA, climbers can interact with those climbs, log their ascents and share beta with other climbers. While PLASTICK is widely known for its routesetting tools, the team at KAYA has been expanding the platform’s role as a comprehensive member engagement and retention tool for its partner gyms.
“Whether you are a cutting-edge pro, a crusty old schooler or just starting out, climbing brings us all together,” John Oungst told CBJ. “KAYA is the digital layer that keeps climbers connected with their community even outside of the gym.”
KAYA not only helps climbers stay engaged but also assists them with unlocking beta and discovering new projects. As the company continues to evolve, the KAYA team said they’re committed to keeping climbers at the forefront of development. “We will continue to build KAYA to help cultivate meaningful connections,” they added.
Hear From the Setters Who Love Kaya/Plastick:
“PLASTICK is super easy to use and makes the workday immensely easier.”
– Connor Erickson, Routesetter, Frontier Climbing, USA
“Most robust.”
– Nickolas Gagliardi, Director of Routesetting, Portland Rock Gym, USA
“The back-end tracking allows users to easily keep track of what is in the gym, from grade distribution to how many dynamic boulders are up in the gym currently.”
– Kyle Vandervelden, General Manager, Aspire Climbing & Fitness, Canada
Favorite Spraywall App
STŌKT
Stōkt won its third straight Grip List award this year by a large margin, claiming 64% of the Favorite Spraywall App vote. In the eyes of setters, it’s clear that Stōkt remains the go-to app for spraywall and homewall setting. Comments in the Grip List Survey this year showed praise for Stōkt’s simplicity, affordability and intuitive design. Setters appreciated the ease with which they can create and share routes through Stōkt, noting the app’s user-friendly interface.
Community is a driving factor in the company’s philosophy. Besides being used for training, Stōkt is also being used to build a stronger network in gyms. The app’s credibility has been bolstered by its adoption by Olympic medalists and elite climbers for both gym and home training, highlighting the trust it has gained within the climbing community.
Stōkt co-owner and co-founder Nicolas De Pontaud told CBJ that community feedback has been driving ongoing innovations at the company. In 2024, Stōkt introduced support for adjustable board angles, allowing users to configure their walls directly within the app, further enhancing its versatility for training. Additionally, improvements to internal automation were made to help streamline wall resets and uploads.
Another one of Stōkt’s developments in 2024 was its LED kit, which has been installed in gyms across the UK and Europe. This system illuminates spraywalls, making them more engaging and accessible, with gyms reporting a surge in climber interest following installation. “We’re confident that this will become a gamechanger for climbers in 2025,” said De Pontaud.
Looking ahead to 2025, Stōkt is focusing on expanding the LED kit’s reach to more walls. The company’s Stōkt on Tour initiative will continue, where the team visit gyms worldwide to help foster global engagement and provide insights for future innovations at Stōkt.
Hear From the People Who Love Stōkt:
“Really user-friendly and a great way of building a board community in a gym.”
– Alistair Baird, Routesetter, Freelance, United Kingdom
“It’s just great. The ease of use is so good, and its hold recognition is great. Phenomenal app.”
– Brandon Keller, Head routesetter, Arq Mountain Centre, Canada
“Ease of use.”
– Tyron Foose, Vice President of Product, Trango Holds, USA
Favorite New Brand
OCELOT
The CBJ team added a new category to the Grip List this year: Favorite New Brand. To qualify for this award, a brand needed to be introduced within two years of the Grip List Survey.
Taking home the title in the award’s debut is Ocelot Grips. Owned and operated by Joey Jannsen and Rich Breuner, Ocelot is based in Bend, Oregon, with manufacturing handled by Peak Performance Polymers. Jannsen is also a renowned routesetter and has experience shaping for many other brands.
The team at Ocelot believes routesetters are increasingly looking to diversify their hold selection, and they’re hoping to fill in the gaps with affordable, functional options. The team has implemented several features to enhance the usability of their climbing holds, such as making all Ocelot holds screw-on compatible and creating large, cohesive families intended to fit with any existing hold set at a gym.
“We have tried hard to shape and organize our holds in a way that really supports the way routesetters use holds,” said Jannsen.
Jannsen also told CBJ about how Ocelot’s catalog organization helps the brand simplify its shopping and ordering process. The company features four main families of holds, each encompassing large, diverse series that facilitate the creation of routes with a cohesive and continuous aesthetic. While this organizational strategy may seem subtle, it’s designed to take the decision fatigue out of shopping.
This year Ocelot launched the Shade Theory series, built with multiple stacking configuration options that allow for blocking and pairing holds. A defining characteristic across the series is the consistent radius found in each size, which produces a cohesive look. In fact, multiple setters commented in the Grip List Survey on the aesthetics of Ocelot shapes. The flexibility of the modular, interactive system also means there’s the potential for configuration possibilities to significantly expand as new holds are added to the series.
Based on the warm reception of Ocelot’s creations for routesetters, it’s safe to assume the team is just getting started.
“Routesetters are our people, and we are so grateful to be a part of such a fun, collaborative community,” Jannsen concluded.
Hear From the People Who Love Ocelot:
“Ocelot is a newer brand adding a unique set of shapes to an otherwise redundant market.”
– Nicholas Ferguson, Routesetting Manager, Denver Bouldering Club, USA
“Simple designs that really pop on the wall, in addition to maybe the comfiest jugs I’ve ever used. It’s hard to find a comfy jug that doesn’t hit the tendons weird, yet these jugs are comfy at every angle. Love the fact that the holds in each pack are a little different, making it easy to switch out for another to find the perfect one for the climb.”
– Jen Chmiel, Head Setter, Ascent Climbing Gym, USA
“Very smart, intentional shaping; original and creative.”
– Stef Myr, General Manager/Head Routesetter, Climb Tacoma, USA
Favorite Shaper
DAN YAGMIN
In addition to his brand winning another Favorite Holds award, Dan Yagmin—owner and shaper at Decoy—also won the Favorite Shaper award this year. True to Decoy’s art portfolio approach, the Grip List Survey comments showed Yagmin is repeatedly touted by setters as a true artist who rides the line between art and function.
Yagmin draws significant inspiration from nature and the various climbing environments he frequents. He emphasized the importance of experiencing the textures, forms and movements found in these outdoor settings. “I like to go to a place, feel the textures, look at the forms,” he stated. Yagmin added that his goal is not to replicate these elements exactly but rather “to create something that captures the essence or feel of a particular rock type,” he explained, noting how that perspective is reflected in the three-dimensional forms he develops.
For Yagmin, success isn’t measured by rapid expansion but by maintaining a balance that supports his simple lifestyle. “If [Decoy] can feed me and my dog, employ a person or two, and support my climbing habit, then I’m happy,” summed up Yagmin.
Hear From the People Who Love Dan Yagmin’s Shaping:
“Dan has an irrepressible psyche for climbing which bleeds into has shapes in obvious and tangible ways.”
– Ewan Bennett, Regional Head Setter, RSC, USA
“Dan is a shaping wizard and a true artist. He has shaped for many brands over the years, and you always know a Yagmin shape when you see it. Beautiful aesthetics, undeniable ergonomics, and setting-informed fastener infrastructure.”
– Nicholas Ferguson, Routesetting Manager, Denver Bouldering Club, USA
“He is an artist. Every shape is from top to bottom a piece of art and works amazingly on the wall.”
– Nico Astudillo, Routesetter, Europe
CBJ Grip Showcase
SUPR & AVA
Setters weren’t the only ones drooling over holds in 2024. Since the first CBJ Grip Showcase was held at The Front South Main in 2022—which was preceded by the Shape Gallery at Wooden Mountain in 2019—CBJ has been organizing onsite hold extravaganzas with climbing gym partners around the country, held alongside other industry events. For each Showcase, hold brands supply a specific set of holds, a setting team creates a single boulder per brand using only that brand’s holds, and then climbers get to come in and rate each hold set or vote online. Each event is a celebration of beautiful holds, creative movements and the talented setters who build functional artwork for us to enjoy.
Three Grip Showcase events have taken place since last year’s Grip List awards:
- December 15, 2023, in Chattanooga –held at Synergy Climbing & Ninja during the official Indoor Climbing Expo afterparty
- May 16, 2024, in Portland –held at Portland Rock Gym during the official CWA Summit afterparty
- September 15, 2024, in Salt Lake City – held at The Front South Main alongside their Setter Summit
Congratulations to this year’s CBJ Grip List Showcase award winners!
CBJ Grip Showcase Portland and Chattanooga Winner: SupR
SupR wowed not once but twice on the Grip Showcase tour over the past 12 months. In Chattanooga, the brand’s Majestic family of holds was all the rage, and in Portland it was the dual-tex Shields macros—which look much like they sound—that took center stage.
The company’s name comes from the last name of Gautier Supper, who co-founded the France-based brand with Thibault Toussaint. Supper starred on the international competition circuit for over a decade, and Toussaint is an entrepreneur and artist who has worked in business across four continents.
“We leverage over 30 years of combined experience in the climbing industry, which includes Gautier Supper’s invaluable World Cup climbing expertise and Thibault Toussaint’s deep knowledge of art,” a representative at SupR told CBJ.
In 2024, Will Watkins from Unleashed Climbing joined the team, bringing his technical expertise to enhance the comfort and design of the holds. SupR’s designs aim to make advancements in both texture and functionality, while appealing to athletes and climbers of all skill levels.
“We hope you’ll have a SupR great time climbing!” the team said last year, and with two Grip List Showcase awards in hand, it’s evident that climbers have been doing exactly that.
CBJ Grip Showcase Salt Lake City Winner: AVA
AVA Volumes made its first appearance in the Grip Showcase series this fall and was an instant hit. The brand boasts over 200 volume options and more than 350 panel options in total, but in Salt Lake City it was AVA’s new no-tex volume panels that impressed.
Founded in 2020 in Warsaw, Poland, AVA’s volumes are all “made of 18 mm waterproof plywood, high-quality hardware, and a special grip texture,” according to the brand’s website, and are built by a team of designers and setters “with a passion for climbing and woodworking.”
“When we see climbing walls using our volumes, we feel immense pride—both in our collaboration and in the way our AVA products are being used,” the team shared on Instagram last month. “Every project in our catalog often comes with a story—sometimes a client dreams of something special, and we get inspired to bring it to life! …[We’re] proud to work with people who pour their hearts into creating places full of energy and love for climbing.”
Later this month, AVA will be bringing some of its latest models to the Vertical Pro trade show, including some new releases that for now the team said “are still our little secret.”
Methodology
This year’s Grip List Survey methodology functioned similarly to past year’s (except there were no homewall categories this year). All routesetter votes were compiled to decide all the Setter’s Choice awards. For the Grand Prize and the Favorite Holds awards, we assigned these points: each first pick got 5pts; each second pick got 4pts; each third pick got 3pts. For a full breakdown of the methodology as well as complete voting results, please click here.
Thank you routesetters for voting for the 2024 Grip List awards!
SETTER’S CHOICE HOLDS
#1 (Grand Prize): Flathold
#2: Cheeta
#3: Kilter
#4: Decoy
#5: Teknik
ALL-TIME FAVORITE HOLDS
Winner: Flathold
Honorable Mention: Teknik, Cheeta, Decoy, Kilter, Pusher
FAVORITE WOOD VOLUMES
Winner: Blocz
Honorable Mention: AVA, Cheeta, Fit, Dimension
FAVORITE FIBERGLASS MACROS
Winner: Flathold
Honorable Mention: Bluepill, Cheeta, 360, Rockcity
FAVORITE BOARD SYSTEM
Winner: Kilter
Honorable Mention: Tension, Moon, Beastmaker
FAVORITE ROUTESETTING APP
Winner: KAYA/PLASTICK
Honorable Mention: TopLogger, Vertical-Life, Kilter, Pebble, Stōkt
FAVORITE SPRAYWALL APP
Winner: Stōkt
Honorable Mention: Retro Flash, Boulder Book, Kilter
FAVORITE NEW BRAND
Winner: Ocelot
Honorable Mention: Blokholds, Motif, Olio, Vezi
FAVORITE SHAPER
Winner: Dan Yagmin
Honorable Mention: Ian Powell, Manu Hassler, Will Watkins
GRIP SHOWCASE SALT LAKE CITY
Winner: AVA
Honorable Mention: Trango, Vertical Solutions, Kai, Agripp
GRIP SHOWCASE PORTLAND
Winner: SupR
Honorable Mention: Unleashed, Ocelot, Trango, EP
GRIP SHOWCASE CHATTANOOGA
Winner: SupR
Honorable Mention: Unleashed, EP, Elevation, Thrill Seeker
Holly grew up in Taiwan and Hong Kong. Now she lives in Denver where she reports, writes and routesets. Beyond the Climbing Business Journal, her writing has been published by Alpinist Magazine, Climbing Magazine, Gym Climber and Sharp End Publishing. Holly’s motto has always been: “keep it interesting.”
Read our interview with Holly: Storytelling Through Movement
