Climb Insider: podcasts, webinars, clinics

Climbing Business Journal
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Climb Insider: podcasts, webinars, clinics
image of routesetter

Just a few thoughts

You would expect a slow week after the Olympics, but still plenty for you below. Bunch of podcasts, a few lingering Paris reactions, and some professional development opportunities. Anyone looking for business financing should watch Chris Ryan’s poignant video below. Thanks for your continued patience with our buggy website. We are hustling to bring you a new better web experience soon. See The Freshest Job Posts Here

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Full Time Positions at Portland Rock Gym – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 August 22

Climbing Business Journal
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Full Time Positions at Portland Rock Gym – Climbing Jobs Weekly 2024 August 22
portland rock gym header image CBJ hosts the most active job board for climbing businesses and organizations. Below are the latest posts from this past week…
Assistant Gym Manager Marketing Director Routesetter Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR “Since 1987, Portland Rock Gym has been dedicated to teaching and training rock climbing indoors while celebrating and preserving our local cliffs and boulders. As a privately held, direct-to-consumer service, we are experiencing rapid growth with the upcoming completion of our full-service Beaverton location, set to be one of the largest climbing facilities in the nation. By November 2024, our total space will expand to 85,000 square feet across two locations.”
Eldorado Climbing

JOB SEEKER TIPS:

Master Your LinkedIn Profile With These Hacks By Noto Group “Titles are the quickest way for a recruiter to identify if a candidate is at the right level and has the right scope for a role. That said, recruiters often begin a search with different titles they are open to. For instance, “Director of Marketing”, “Marketing Director”, “Marketing Brand Director” or “Sr. Marketing Manager”. If you are someone looking for a new role and have an obscure title, it is acceptable to change it to something more common within your industry.” Read the full article here

LATEST JOB OPENINGS

See all current jobs // Post your job FT = full time PT = part time
RECENT/TOP JOB POSTS AT CBJ LOCATION TYPE
Assistant Youth Programs Director at Alaska Rock Gym Anchorage, AK FT – coach, instructor, manager
Front Desk Manager at Alaska Rock Gym Anchorage, AK FT – front desk, manager
Head Coach at High Point Birmingham, AL FT – coach
Head Routesetter at Alta Gilbert/Chandler, AZ FT – routesetter
Rec Team Coach at The Wall San Diego, CA PT – coach
Assistant Program Director at Central Rock Gym Watertown, MA FT – coach, manager, routesetter
Routesetter at DYNO Detroit Detroit, MI FT – routesetter
Gym Director at Shift Holland, MI FT – manager
Assistant Manager at The Gravity Vault Brick, NJ FT – manager
Instructor at The Gravity Vault Hoboken, NJ PT – instructor
Gym Manager at The Gravity Vault Princeton, NJ FT – manager
Instructor at The Gravity Vault Upper Saddle River, NJ PT – instructor
Comp Team Coach at Movement Valhalla, NY PT – coach
Gym Manager at The Circuit Eugene, OR FT – manager
Assistant Gym Manager at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – front desk, manager
Marketing Director at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – manager, mktg/sales
Routesetter at Portland Rock Gym Portland, OR FT – routesetter
Training and Development Coordinator at Drexel University Philadelphia, PA FT – instructor, other
Facilities Associate at Movement Dallas, TX FT – manufacturing
Teen Club Coordinator at The Mountaineers Seattle, WA FT – instructor

Career Centers of Climbing Industry

NAMETYPELOCATION
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/access-fund.pngAccess Fundhttps://www.accessfund.org/about/careersorganizationUSA - CO
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-alpine.pngAlpine Climbing Adventure Fitnesshttps://climbatalpine.com/about/careers/facilityUSA - CA
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http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/pa-ascend.pngASCEND Climbinghttps://www.ascendclimbing.com/ascend-jobsfacilityUSA - OH, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ascent-studio.pngAscent Studiohttps://ascentstudio.com/employment/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/bouldering-project-1.pngBouldering Project (pick location)https://boulderingproject.com/facilityUSA - MN, TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ab-calgary-climbing-centre.jpgCalgary Climbing Centrehttps://calgaryclimbing.com/employment/facilityCanada - AB
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/central-rock-gym-1.pngCentral Rock Gymhttps://centralrockgym.com/careers/facilityUSA - CT, FL, MA, NY, RI
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/eldorado-wall-company.pngEldorado Climbinghttps://eldowalls.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO - Louisville
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/entre-prises.pngEP Climbinghttps://epclimbing.com/na/en/ep-usa-careersproductUSA - OR - Bend
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/everlast.pngEverlast / Kumiki / Groperz / eXpressionhttps://everlastclimbing.com/pages/careersproductUSA - MN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/il-first-ascent.pngFA Climbinghttps://faclimbing.com/careers/facilityUSA - IL, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-guelph-grotto.pngGuelph Grottohttps://www.guelphgrotto.com/careersfacilityCanada - ON - Guelph
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/head-rush.pngHead Rush Technologies // TRUBLUEhttps://trublueclimbing.com/about/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/tn-high-point.pngHigh Point Climbing & Fitnesshttps://www.highpointclimbing.com/employmentfacilityUSA - AL, TN
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/impact.pngIMPACThttps://impactclimbing.com/careers/productCanada - ON - Milton
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/on-junction.pngJunction Climbing Centrehttps://www.junctionclimbing.com/employment-opportunitiesfacilityCanada - ON - London
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ma-metrorock.pngMetroRockhttps://metrorock.com/facilityUSA - MA, NY, VT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/momentum-1.pngMomentumhttps://recruiting.paylocity.com/recruiting/jobs/All/df699b76-9e67-4daa-9236-27d597e75dbf/Momentum-LLCfacilityUSA - TX, UT, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/movement-1.pngMovement Gymshttps://movementgyms.com/careers/facilityUSA - CA, CO, IL, MD, OR, TX, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/olc-architecture.pngOLC Architecturehttps://www.olcdesigns.com/about-us/#teammemberserviceUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/onsite.pngOnSitehttps://www.theonsite.com/careersproductCanada - QC
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/organic.pngOrganic Climbinghttps://organicclimbing.com/pages/employment-opportunitiesproductUSA - PA - Philipsburg
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/va-peak-experiences.pngPeak Experienceshttps://www.peakexperiences.com/employmentfacilityUSA - VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/salon-de-lescalade.pngSalon de l'Escaladehttps://www.salon-escalade.com/vertical-jobs/recruteurs/organizationFrance
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nm-stone-age.pngStone Agehttps://climbstoneage.com/employment-staff/facilityUSA - NM - Albuquerque
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ut-the-front.pngThe Fronthttps://thefrontclimbingclub.com/careers/facilityUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/the-gravity-vault.pngThe Gravity Vaulthttps://gravityvault.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NJ, NY, PA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-the-pad.pngThe Padhttps://www.thepadclimbing.org/employment/facilityUSA - CA, NV
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-the-spot.pngThe Spothttps://www.thespotgym.com/careersfacilitiesUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/trango.pngTrango // Tenayahttps://trango.com/pages/careersproductUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/treadwall-fitness.pngTreadwallhttps://treadwallfitness.com/careers/productUSA - MA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/nc-triangle-rock-club.pngTriangle Rock Club (choose location)https://www.trianglerockclub.com/morrisville/about/employment/facilityUSA - NC, VA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/co-ubergrippen.pngUbergrippenhttps://ugclimbing.com/jobs/facilityUSA - CO
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/UK-Climbing.pngUKC (jobs in UK)https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/job_finder/organizationUnited Kingdom
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/vertical-solutions.jpgVertical Solutions // Habit // Proxy // Pebblehttps://vsclimbinggyms.com/company/careersproductUSA - UT
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/wa-vertical-world.pngVertical Worldhttps://verticalworld.com/facilityUSA - WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/ca-vital.pngVitalhttps://www.vitalclimbinggym.com/careersfacilityUSA - CA, NY, WA
http://climbsesh2024.flywheelsites.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/walltopia.pngWalltopiahttps://careers.walltopia.com/productsBulgaria

Turning First-Time Visits Into Memberships: The Impact of a Well-Made Rental Shoe and Butora’s New Habara

Butora
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Turning First-Time Visits Into Memberships: The Impact of a Well-Made Rental Shoe and Butora’s New Habara
Longmont Climbing Collective
Owners of climbing gyms themselves—including Longmont Climbing Collective (pictured)—the Butora team has seen the importance of an enjoyable first-time experience and how rental shoes can make all the difference. (All photos courtesy of HMH Outdoors)
Authored by Mack Maier In 2017, the city of Longmont, Colorado, didn’t have a climbing gym. My business partner and I had been running HMH Outdoors, a climbing gym distribution business, for a few years. We were based in the small, sleepy town outside of Boulder, and it was becoming increasingly busy. We began our climbing careers outdoors, but we also enjoyed the training and convenience of indoor climbing. With the absence of a climbing gym in Longmont, we were members of a gym in Boulder. It was and remains a nice facility, but we grew weary of the constant commute, especially during Colorado’s long winters. This story likely hits home with many of North America’s climbing gyms: passionate climbers saw a need for their community and looked to provide a solution.
Climbing at LCC
Even gyms started with the best of intentions need other ingredients to be successful, from supportive staff to proper equipment.
Opening a climbing gym (or in our case now, three) is not easy. You spend months, if not years, building your business plan, sourcing funding from whoever will give you money, filling out countless forms for banks, putting liens on effectively everything you own, finding investors, etc. It is an arduous, yet rewarding process. All of this work takes place before you ever put a shovel to dirt. As gym owners, we take great risk to build and open businesses in communities that need them. But this passion alone does not guarantee success. Once the gym is finally open, the real work begins—especially in today’s market, where climbers have a choice of where they spend their hard-earned dollars. Gyms must earn their members and guests. At least for us, and likely most climbing gyms, membership is the core of the business. Programming, retail, yoga, guest/punch passes and other offerings are important, but getting membership right is essential. We need customers to enjoy the experience of the gym.
Slacklining at LCC
Rental shoes need to be built to last, especially when high-performing ones are just too comfortable to want to take off.

Making a Strong First Impression

When someone enters our gym as a new climber, the first thing they are handed, after filling out a waiver and paying, is a pair of rental shoes (and if they are rope climbing, a rental harness and belay device). Our job as gym owners is to ensure that the customer who walks in the door for the first time has a pleasant, enjoyable experience and wants to come back for more. First impressions mean everything, and if a visitor doesn’t enjoy the experience, they’re unlikely to come back. Rental shoes, climbing holds, friendly staff, clean restrooms…these basics are what will impact a customer’s first day. If the rental shoes are smelly, old, and don’t fit and don’t perform well, or if the holds are old and not fun and set in a good manner, then it’s hard to get a customer to enjoy the experience and want to return and possibly purchase a membership. At least at our gym, a pair of rental shoes is paid off after being rented about nine times. We ultimately rent them out hundreds, if not thousands of times. To say their ROI is exceptional is an understatement. I’ve been to hundreds of gyms around the United States and Canada (as well as in Asia and Europe) and I’m always perplexed by the poor state of rental shoes that I often find. Of course, I am biased, since I’m involved with Butora and we have a large market share of rental shoes.
Butora's new Habara Markless
Already a fan favorite, Butora’s Habara Markless rental shoes now have a new-and-improved outsole.
We believe that rental shoes should last a long time and perform as good as they reasonably can. A poor-performing rental shoe that doesn’t climb well or hold up to abuse is absolutely detrimental to a gym’s business, in our experience. That’s why we offer a leading, world-class rental shoe that excels in both performance and durability, and we’ve just added a 5-millimeter outsole to make it even better. Check out the Butora Habara, as well as the rest of our rental lineup, at www.butorausa.com, and contact your Account Manager or sales@hmhoutdoors.com for more information and to place an order. Our rental shoes are always in stock in the U.S. and can often ship out the same day an order is placed, or shortly thereafter.  
This story was paid for by the sponsor and does not necessarily represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Paraclimbing Routesetting Clinic

CBJ Press Release Service
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Paraclimbing Routesetting Clinic

In-depth instructional clinic for setting for adaptive athletes

paraclimbing clinic header

Tuesday December 3rd – Saturday December 7th
Central Rock Gym- Kennesaw, GA

About​

This multi-day instructional clinic will provide route setters an in-depth knowledge and skill to set for Adaptive Climbing. The 4-day clinic will culminate in the Southeast Paraclimbing Competition. Clinic attendees will incorporate setting routes for the competition throughout the clinic and on the day of competition, will have an opportunity to watch competitive adaptive athletes climb their routes.

Note: This is not a USAC sanctioned clinic and does not provide any certification. This clinic is designed for route setters or route setting directors looking to learn more about adaptive route setting from a competition standpoint, but will also provide the necessary info to better serve the adaptive community, commercially, at their home facility.

Instructors​

Aaron Davis

Aaron is the Head Setter at BlocHaven in Greenville, SC, a USAC L4 National Chief Routesetter/Instructor and IFSC Paraclimbing Routesetter. He has been setting for USAC Paraclimbing National events since 2019 plus over 16 years setting commercially and for championship competitions around the country.

Nohl Haeckel

Nohl is the Director of Setting at Flowstone Climbing in Redlands, CA, a USAC L5 National Chief Routesetter/Instructor and IFSC Paraclimbing Routesetter. He has been setting USAC Paraclimbing National events since 2018 plus over 16 years setting commercially and for championship competitions around the country. ​

Eligibility Criteria

  • Minimum of 2 years Rope Access Routesetting

  • Minimum of having set 2 top rope/lead competitions

  • Minimum Forerunning level of 5.11a

  • USAC L1 or higher certification (preferred)

  • Must have own setting equipment

    • impact driver, bits, etc.

    • leash/tether(s) for working at height

    • setting harness

    • helmet

    • RIG, pulley(s), directionals, etc.

    • setting bucket(if possible)

    • safety glasses, ear protection

    • own static rope (if you have it) for ascending/hauling

    • any other gear you use for route setting at height

  • Strong desire to learn more about Adaptive Routesetting

Cost: $600 per person​

What’s Included: Para/Adaptive Setters Workshop Category-specific sets 1:1 feedback from Aaron Davis / Nohl Haeckel In-depth instructional clinic for setting for adaptive athletes Watch competitive adaptive athletes climb your routes (para-nationals simulation comp) Learn to set for your local gym athletes. Lunch each day​

Attendees should arrange their own travel/accommodation. We can help connect you all to arrange group accommodation if preferred.​

Questions? Email emily@catalystsports.org 

Register
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Friction Labs Launches Athletic Hands, a Revolutionary Restorative Hand Cream for Athletes

CBJ Press Release Service
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Friction Labs Launches Athletic Hands, a Revolutionary Restorative Hand Cream for Athletes
friction labs athlete hands Denver, CO – Friction Labs, a leading sporting goods manufacturer, is proud to announce the launch of Athletic HandsTM, a purpose-built restorative hand cream designed specifically for athletes. Developed in partnership with dermatologists and tested by Friction Labs’ Pro Team, Athletic Hands quickly aids in the recovery of active, dry skin, keeping athletes’ hands in top condition to perform their best. When hands are pushed to the limit, dryness and irritation can harm an athlete’s performance. Athletic Hands is the solution, providing rapid recovery and restoration to keep hands in top condition. This fast- absorbing Shea Butter hand cream targets the deepest layers of skin to promote optimal recovery, which is essential for peak athletic performance. With its non-greasy, non-waxy formula, Athletic Hands is perfect for daily use, ensuring hands are always ready to go. “I’ve been using Athletic Hands after a gym session or outdoor session before bed as a quick way to heal after an intense day of climbing,” stated renowned entrepreneur, professional climber, photographer, and filmmaker Jon Glassberg. “It helps me build skin after a particularly hard session, helping me get back to climbing quicker.” Athletic Hands features a unique blend of beneficial ingredients, including Copper Tripeptide-1, Lavender Essential Oil, Shea Butter, aloe vera, and Arnica. The product is free from harsh chemicals and artificial fragrances and is cruelty-free—making it an excellent choice for athletes who care about their skin and the environment. “After years of research and development, we’re thrilled to bring Athletic Hands to the market,” said Kevin Brown, CEO of Friction Labs. “Our goal is to support athletes in achieving their goals, and we believe this product is a game-changer that will make a significant difference in their performance.” Athletic Hands is now available for purchase at frictionlabs.com, amazon.com/frictionlabs, and select gyms and sporting goods retailers. About Friction Labs Friction Labs, a leading sporting goods manufacturer, empowers athletes who require the most dependable, effective grip and hand care products—enabling them to perform at their highest level. Founded in 2013 by rock climbers who demanded better hand chalk, Friction Labs continues revolutionizing the industry with its proprietary magnesium carbonate formula, providing unrivaled moisture absorption and long-lasting performance. Preferred by top athletes across various sports, Friction Labs’ products are responsibly and eco-friendly manufactured and packaged in the USA, ensuring exceptional quality and reliability. Headquartered in Denver, Colorado, Friction Labs is deeply committed to supporting athletes of all abilities and helping them achieve their goals. Learn more at frictionlabs.com.
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

YETI Nationals Returns October 12-16

CBJ Press Release Service
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YETI Nationals Returns October 12-16
usa climbing nacs header The YETI National Championships return for 2024 and will be hosted at USA Climbing’s very own National Training Center in Salt Lake City, UT, October 12-16! Athlete registration, the preliminary schedule, and spectator tickets will all become available on Wednesday, August 28. Keep Reading
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Yes, there is indoor climbing in Antarctica—more than one spot, in fact

Naomi Stevens
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Yes, there is indoor climbing in Antarctica—more than one spot, in fact
Amundsen Scott South Pole Station climbing gym
Both the Amundsen Scott South Pole Station (pictured) and the McMurdo Station feature climbing walls for the workers on base, despite being located in the vastness of the Antarctic Desert. (Photo courtesy of Amundsen Scott South Pole Station)

Amundsen Scott South Pole and McMurdo Stations Antarctica

Specs: Antarctica is the only continent that does not have a smattering of commercial climbing gyms, but climbers living on “The Ice” are still finding ways to climb indoors. Recently, CBJ interviewed Antarctic workers Bill Coughran and Roy Perez about the indoor climbing options on the U.S. Antarctic bases. While many workers opt for more traditional base activities—such as watching movies, playing board games and gym sports, or attending social events—there is a collection of folks who spend idle time climbing. Both the Amundsen Scott South Pole and McMurdo U.S. Stations feature climbing options—bouldering and roped climbing, respectively—built by the team on hand. And while the walls could pass for a traditional rec center or homewall to the untrained eye, closer inspection reveals various gym-like aspects, from commercial holds to belay certification courses and even competitions.
Rockwerx

Amundsen Scott South Pole Station

The Amundsen Scott South Pole Station is home to a 120-square-foot building resembling a shed, covered floor to ceiling in climbing holds—some professionally manufactured, some homemade. Built off the main workstation that hosts many scientists, engineers and researchers, the climbing wall was established in the late 1990s after climbers on staff received permission to use the camp weight room for this purpose, according to Bill Coughran, Leidos Analyst supporting the United States Antarctic Program (USAP). The wall created a recreational outlet in the base’s limited available space, allowing “experienced and novice climbers to practice and learn the climbing craft,” Coughran said. “We attached homemade holds on the wall in the weight room with mattresses as a cushioning for the floor. Gradually, commercially available holds were added over time and have replaced the original homemade holds.” Andrea Dixon, Acting South Pole Area Manager, said the gym was constructed with local personnel. “We often have carpenters making improvements around station in their off time for fun,” she said. “This was one of those projects.” Now, the wall offers 320 square feet of climbing wall surface on walls reaching eight feet and is informally operated by the base’s staff—there aren’t any day passes or additional features, holds are purchased through a limited recreation budget, and participants can tweak and add routes at their pleasure.
Amundsen Scott wall
The climbing area at the Amundsen Scott station is one of the few climbing gyms with more climbing wall surface than floor space. (Photo courtesy of Amundsen Scott South Pole Station)
The climbing community at the Amundsen Scott station is “very informal and individual,” Coughran said, with less than a half-dozen climbers on average. The gym usage varies, depending on the season, and is mainly used as a recreational opportunity on off days. In most seasons climbing is a fringe activity, though Coughran noted “there always seems to be one or two” climbers on base. The wall also provides a “sense of sanctuary,” described Coughran. “The gym is in an older, somewhat remote part of the base, and that remoteness adds to the feeling of getting out.”
Atomik Climbing Holds
 The challenges the climbing gym faces are not very traditional. For example, “The building is becoming buried in snowdrift over time and is not a high-priority station building,” Coughran said. “It’s part of an older portion of the station campus that will eventually see change as facilities get refurbished or replaced. Lots of shoveling is involved to dig down into the doorway of the building.” But the wall persists, kept alive by the staff who stop by for a climbing session in a remote place.

McMurdo Station

The current McMurdo Station was the result of a request made in 2011 after the station’s original climbing wall was decommissioned in 2009, according to Roy Perez, the Recreation Supervisor supporting USAP. In the station’s traditional fitness gym, in-house carpenters and welders built a 30-foot climbing wall with two top rope lines. The wall typically has at least three routes set on each of the lines—an easy, intermediate and expert line.
McMurdo wall
The top rope walls at the McMurdo Station feature routes for all skill levels. (Photo courtesy of McMurdo Station)
Like the wall at Amundsen Scott, the McMurdo Station climbing wall is unstaffed. “Volunteers are the heart and soul of this community. We have many talented individuals [who] are willing to share their time and experience with the community,” Perez said. “Among the population, there are many climbers, with various levels of experience [who] take the time to maintain the gear and set routes and teach safety and how to belay.” Some of the more experienced climbers are the designated routesetters, often setting new routes after work. The climbing wall is 480 square feet and the surrounding area features hangboards, a campus board with multiple hold sizes, auto belays, as well as rental shoes, grigris and chalk. A purchase request is created for any equipment needed, including holds. No fees or passes are necessary for climbers, and any climber who has passed the belay certification course may check out the key to climb. A belay class is hosted on Tuesdays for aspiring or existing climbers, contributing to the large percentage of climbers stationed at McMurdo—out of the 800 workers at McMurdo during the time of the interview, 176 were belay certified. “Of course, not all of them climb regularly, but it’s nice to have [the wall] as an option,” Perez added.
Full McMurdo gym
“The gym [serves] primarily a recreation role. However, we have search and rescue and field teams that need to train and practice their rope skills, so it is also used as a training tool,” Perez said of the McMurdo Station wall. (Photo courtesy of McMurdo Station)
All climbers at McMurdo Station are required to climb with partners for safety reasons. On average, the wall sees 11 climbers every day—sometimes late into the night. “Because of the round-the-clock schedule on station and the key can be checked out any time, it is not uncommon to get a group of climbers in the gym at 1am!” said Perez. The groups that visit the gym are relatively small, compared to some of the large clubs that gather in a commercial gym. Often, the gym is used by workers looking to decompress after shifts, although sometimes it is used for rope training. The climbers at McMurdo aren’t the only ones in the region. According to Perez, the workers at Scott Base—the New Zealand station located 3 km (1.9 mi) away—have a small bouldering gym. “We tend to be fairly competitive with each other in several sports,” Perez said. “We plan on having some climbing competitions between the bases. They will send some [climbers] to top rope and we will send some to boulder!” According to Perez, the greatest challenge for the gym is continuity: “It is fairly easy to keep the gym active year to year with volunteers, but because we are all seasonal employees, long-term plans are difficult to execute,” he explained. “Many people come back year after year, but many only come for a season or two and move on. So, there are plenty of great ideas to think about, but when their contract is over, they move on to something else.”
Atomik Climbing Holds
 Walls: Owner/contractor Flooring: Mattresses, Stock McMurdo “Big Gym” Flooring Website: www.usap.gov In Their Words: “Climbing offers a unique version of a flow state. For avid climbers, it’s nice they can stay fit while here on the ice, but also get the mental challenge of climbing. For beginners, it’s a great way to learn something new without the intimidation of so many eyes in a commercial gym.” – Roy Perez, Recreation Supervisor supporting USAP

September 19 Webinar: Design Considerations for New Facilities

Climbing Business Journal
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September 19 Webinar: Design Considerations for New Facilities

Design Considerations for New Facilities

Are you ready to design your new gym?

Quality climbing wall design is integral to the success of any gym; it drives the functionality of a facility, impacts the look and feel, and dictates the budget for most big-ticket items. However, it can be easy for the design to be an afterthought, since it’s typically an included service in the gym build process. In this seminar, we’ll discuss how to steer that process to get the best design possible and increase the value of your facility. This webinar will help you:
  • Gain a deeper understanding of the design-build process
  • Identify common building attributes that impact wall design
  • Calculate climbing surface from building square footage
  • Analyze strategies for ensuring a quality, functional and unique wall design
This session is intended for anyone considering developing a new climbing gym. Join us Thursday, September 19 at 12:00pm MDT. Host Bennett Kornbrath of EP Climbing will lead this webinar as part of the ongoing CBJ Climbing Gym Management Series. CBJ Members: RSVP Here for Free Access** Not a Member? Purchase Access Here for $59
Eldorado Climbing

All staff of CBJ members are invited!

**Live webinars are offered as a FREE member benefit to staff of CBJ member businesses at the Biz level and above (check if your employer is a member here). Each staff member must RSVP, although managers can RSVP for multiple staff. On-demand video recordings are available to staff at Plus or Premium member businesses and individual purchasers. Questions about accessing these recordings? Email us at info@climbingbusinessjournal.com. See All CBJ Webinar Recordings Here

Meet your presenter:

Bennett Kornbrath is the lead designer at EP Climbing. He has spent the last 10 years exploring the creative, structural elements that form the building blocks of indoor climbing, including routesetting, hold shaping and wall design. epclimbing.com Bennett Kornbrath of EP Climbing

Introducing Deathgrips Climbing: Digitally designed handholds

CBJ Press Release Service
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Introducing Deathgrips Climbing: Digitally designed handholds

death grips climbing header

Salt Lake City, 08/15/24 — Deathgrips Climbing, an innovative entrant to the climbing hold industry, is thrilled to announce its official launch. Using digital design techniques to achieve a new level of quality in holds, Deathgrips is set to redefine what is possible in climbing holds.

About Deathgrips

Deathgrips Climbing is the vision of Elijah Forbes, a climber with over 10 years of industry experience of producing holds, routesetting, and coaching at the highest level. His love of holds started while working at a hold production shop while pursuing a physics degree at University of Utah. The love of design, knowledge of production processes and immense climbing experience led into making a line of climbing holds different from anything else on the market.

Shaped for Climbers, Designed for setters

At Deathgrips, we are dedicated to creating holds that are unique, comfortable and versatile for all setting applications. Whether you’re a commercial gym,  a homewall enthusiast, or setting for a competition, our holds have been meticulously crafted to meet your needs. Highlights include:

– Unique shapes: Digital designs that lend themselves to a line that is different from holds traditionally shaped by foam. Smooth curves, perfect radiuses and mirrored/symmetrical holds create a line that is both comfortable to climb on and aesthetically pleasing.

– Production quality: Hollowbacks that have been digitally designed to decrease plastic while retaining strength. Intentionally placed set screw holes lead to the highest functionality for all holds. To make it even better, holds are all produced in Colorado at industry leading Aragon Elastomers.

– Comfortable Texture: Inspired by the best of Southeastern sandstone, we set out to create a texture that is comfortable, durable and fits in well with other hold brands.

We are proud to present a total of over 300 holds across 16 sets and 4 lines, ensuring that there’s something for every climber.

For inquiries, partnership opportunities, and further information, please contact Elijah Forbes, at Info@Climbdeathgrips.com

Follow us on social media for the latest updates, new holds, and more:

@climbdeathgrips

https://www.linkedin.com/company/deathgrips-climbing/

https://climbdeathgrips.com/

CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.

Changes to Youth Age Categories

CBJ Press Release Service
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Changes to Youth Age Categories
usa climbing header image USA Climbing Youth Series age categories are changing for the 2024-2025 climbing season. This post will illustrate the new age categories, explain why this change is being made, and provide additional information about how categories are affected.

Why is this change being made?

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) member federations voted to approve a shift in IFSC age categories starting in 2025. This change increases the minimum age to participate in IFSC senior events by one year in an effort to safeguard young athletes from potentially negative pressures experienced competing at the senior level. The vote also approved the change of youth categories to align with the age shift. USA Climbing, as a National Federation member of the IFSC, must align with IFSC changes.

What are the new USA Climbing Youth age categories?

Effective for the start of the 2024-2025 Season, youth categories including respective event eligibility is illustrated below in Table 1. For comparison and reference, the 2023-2024 categories and competition eligibility are provided in Table 2. Table 1: USA Climbing Age Categories and Competition Eligibility (2024-2025 Season) new usac age group table Table 2: USA Climbing Age Categories and Competition Eligibility (2023-2024 Season) new usac age group table

How does this affect IFSC 2025 Youth World Championships?

The 2025 Youth World Championships will only include U17 (15-16-year-olds) and U19 (17-18-year-olds) age categories. As a result, categories with 14- or 19-year-old competitors (that were eligible in prior years) will not be eligible for the 2025 Youth World Championships.

How were these decisions made?

USA Climbing staff and the Youth Series Task Force (YSTF) have worked to collect feedback over the past several weeks from various USA Climbing stakeholders. The qualitative and quantitative data collected played a critical role in the decisions made for the upcoming 2024-2025 season. Considerations included minimizing negative impacts to athletes, host facilities, and volunteers while also considering operational resources for the upcoming season.

How does this affect USA Climbing Youth Series competitors?

USA Climbing has made the following decisions regarding the 2024-2025 season. These decisions will allow for a smooth transition into our new age categories without overextending the systems already in place to manage the Youth Series. The YSTF will continue to collect feedback and consider how to improve the youth athlete experience for future seasons. U20 (19-year-olds):
  • Athletes born in 2006 will be in a new, single-age category for 2024-2025.
  • The competitors in U20 are not eligible for Youth Worlds per IFSC rules.
  • The U20 category will follow a traditional pathway to Nationals which includes QEs > Regionals > Divisionals > Nationals.
  • For the upcoming season, the U20 category advancement quota will remain the same as previous seasons – 26 for Regionals, 13 for Divisionals and 6 for Nationals.
  • Continuation of this single-age category beyond the 2024-2025 Season is still under review.
U15 (13-14-year-olds):
  • Athletes born in 2011 or 2012.
  • The U15 category will use the Standard Speed Route for QSTs.
    • The Youth National Championship will use the Standard Speed Route with additional holds in a standard pattern to shorten movement for this category.
    • USA Climbing will provide setting guidance to use additional holds as an OPTION at QSTs for those facilities who choose to use it.
  • The U15 category will be Top Rope only for all rope climbing events for the upcoming season (QEs > Regionals > Divisionals > Nationals).
    • Since category designations are based on ages ending on December 31 of the respective year, some youth athletes in this category would be as young as 12 years old, which is a year younger than the Youth B category in previous seasons.
    • The age for lead-climb certification at host facilities varies widely across the nation due to liability insurance and other requirements. There are a significant number of facilities that do not permit lead-climb certification at 12 years old.
    • This decision was made in the interest of equity and providing a consistent event experience for this category nationwide.
U13 (12-year-olds or under):
  • Athletes born in 2013 or later.
  • The U13 age category will not compete at Divisionals or Nationals.
    • We understand this news may disappoint some athletes anticipating their first year of Divisionals eligibility. However, we believe that this decision will best support the positive development of the majority of the athletes competing in this category.
    • There were many variables to assess: the American Development Model (ADM) that guides youth development in sports, the level of service and quality of competitions, and the operational lift from 100+ Regional Coordinator volunteers, USA Climbing Committees, and USA Climbing internal staff, etc.

How is North American Cup Series (NACS) eligibility being affected?

IFSC member federations voted to approve a shift in the minimum age for World Cups from 16 to 17 years old, effective for the 2025 season, which affects NACS participation and eligibility for interested competitors. While the North American Cup Series is not part of the Youth Series, many youth competitors have participated in these events. USA Climbing may consider eligibility for competitors who are 16 years old for North American Cup Series events with the understanding that only those who are 17 years old or older would be World Cup eligible (TBD). Any potential changes to the current model requires consultation with member federations and is outside the purview of the Youth Series Task Force. Please know that decisions were guided by putting the interests of our youth athletes first. USA Climbing and the Youth Series Task Force will continue to monitor and review these decisions during this upcoming season. As the YSTF continues its work, we also plan to monitor the decisions of the IFSC, collect feedback from all necessary stakeholders, and prioritize athlete well-being above all else. We are excited to continue to grow and strengthen the Youth Series over the coming years, so that more young athletes can thrive in this sport we all love! We look forward to seeing you at Youth competitions soon and welcoming new climbers and their families to the sport in the upcoming season. Thank you for your time and consideration. Warm Regards, USA Climbing & Youth Series Task Force
CBJ press releases are written by the sponsor and do not represent the views of the Climbing Business Journal editorial team.
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