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    Auto Belays Get Safer With Barriers

    Photo: http://humanfactorsblog.org/
    Photo: humanfactorsblog.org

    The latest safety trend to hit the climbing gym scene is auto belay barriers. These physical barriers are designed to prevent users from unintentionally climbing without first attaching themselves to the auto belay leash. Climbers that forget to clip into auto belays have resulted in increasing numbers of accidents as the devices have become more prevalent in climbing gyms.  This “unintentional soloing” resulted in the death of a climber in Texas this past September.

    Belay barriers were first created by resourceful gym owners trying to reduce the risk of climber error when using auto belays. Early innovators like Mesa Rim, Vertical World, Climb Iowa and Rock Sport in Reno all designed some version of belay barriers for their facilities.

    These barriers have done such a great job of reducing climber error that Head Rush Technologies, producer of the popular TRUEBLUE auto belay, has just introduced the first commercially made barrier called the Belay Gate, which retails for $40. Head Rush’s CEO, Candie Fisher, told CBJ that the Belay Gate went through a trial period at a handful of climbing gyms.  They were looking to find “a design that would be noticeable both when the auto belay is clipped in to the gate (to alert people to clip in) and when the climber is climbing on the auto belay (to alert others that there is a climber above),” said Fisher. “The padded nature of the design allows for this and provides a suitable surface when someone lands. Our belay gate is adjustable, so it always looks neat and aesthetically pleasing on the wall.”

    SureClip from Elevate
    SureClip from Elevate

    Also coming soon is the SureClip auto belay barrier from Elevate Climbing Walls, which just received its patent pending publication for the product. Rich Johnston, CEO of Elevate Walls, said the SureClip will be sold for an estimated $80. Johnston, who also owns Vertical World climbing gyms, said, “When we decided to put auto-belays into the gyms we needed to come up with something to alert the customer to make sure to clip in. The idea of a tarp system had been thrown around for a couple of years, but no one really took it any where. We decided it was a viable system, thus we filed for the patent.”

    The idea behind the barriers is to create a physical barrier that needs to be moved before the user is able to climb. The barriers are placed over the start handholds and footholds, and the climber must transfer the auto belay carabiner from the barrier to their own harness to access the climb. Of course the barriers cannot completely stop a climber from attempting to get on the wall unclipped, but the barriers could provide a crucial reminder to the absent minded climber.

    The Humanfactorsblog.com, a website devoted to the field of human factors in design, recently had an article about auto belay barriers at the Triangle Rock Club in Raleigh, North Carolina.

    One characteristics these accidents share is that the victims were experienced and used the auto-belays frequently. When a procedure becomes automatic, it becomes more accurate and less effortful, but it also becomes less accessible to the conscious mind. When a step is skipped, but all other steps are unaffected, it’s especially hard to notice the skipped step in an automatic process. It functions as a guard. This adheres to the hierarchy of safety: First, try to design out the hazard. Second, guard against the hazard. Last, warn. These are in order of effectiveness. Prior to this device, I had only seen signs on the wall saying “Clip in!” (And a year ago, even those didn’t exist.) This device physically blocks the start of the climbing routes, demanding interaction before one starts climbing.

    Aside from user error, the auto belays used in most climbing facilities today are exceedingly safe. Modern devices control the descent of a climber through hydraulic or magnetic eddy current braking systems which are reliable and require little maintenance compared to the first generation of friction-based braking systems.

    CWA Members Have New Insurance Option

    monument

    The Climbing Wall Association has announced the selection of Monument Sports Group as their exclusive insurance provider.  Monument will offer General Liability, Workers’ Compensation, Accident Medical, Property, Excess and Umbrella insurance services to CWA members under the organization’s insurance provider program.

    While Monument has been providing insurance to the sports industry for over 10 years, primarily to indoor soccer centers and professional sports complexes, the indoor climbing industry is a recent addition to their portfolio. Mark Grossman, President of Monument Sports Group, told CBJ, “We have climbers in our office, so the climbing industry was always a target for us and a natural fit.” They currently insure several climbing facilities.

    “From our first contact with them, we found them to be motivated, knowledgeable, and an all-around great fit for the CWA and its members. Given their extensive experience in managing programs similar to ours, Monument was the best long-term solution for our organization,” said Drew Eakins, Membership Marketing Manager for the CWA.

    Monument’s President is also confident that their experience and services are a good match for the climbing industry. “We have extensive experience managing similar national programs and working directly with facility and gym owners. We think the CWA members will be pleased with the coverage and pricing of the new program. Our focus on risk management, claims handling and service will help protect the stability of the program and control long-term costs,” said Grossman.

    Grossman said that Monument would focus on helping the CWA improve its members’ risk management practices, particularly around auto-belay and bouldering safety.  While he indicated they were interested in putting more teeth into the CWA’s operational standards for the indoor climbing industry, he was reluctant to comment on the CWA’s role in enforcing these standards. “Our job is stabilize the program and help it grow,” said Grossman.

    For the CWA, their primary goal is “to help our members continue to thrive through the ups and downs of the insurance market,” said Eakins. “CWA’s insurance programs focus primarily on maintaining the availability and price stability of coverage.”

    The selection of Monument came after the CWA launched a nationwide search for providers in October of this year, when the program’s former provider, Veracity Insurance, decided not to continue its partnership with the CWA.

    Climbing gyms that have active policies with Veracity should not be affected by the change. Cameron Allen, Recreation Broker for Veracity told CBJ, “There should be no effect on the current policy holders. The only difference is that it will not be mandatory to be a member of the CWA to be a part of the Veracity Climbing Gym Insurance Program.” Allen added, “Veracity has been writing climbing gyms for over a decade, we know this business better than anyone in the nation and will continue to provide insurance to the climbing industry.”

    The split between Veracity and the CWA appears to stem from a difference in philosophy over risk management. “The indoor climbing industry has evolved from climbers having a place to train/climb to more of a ‘pay-to-play’ family entertainment facility. With more new/novice climbers frequenting indoor climbing gyms the bodily injury claims have increased significantly,” said Allen.

    “Veracity has invested in some great loss control pieces that will be available, and benefit, our clients; training videos, auto belay safety barriers, policy & procedure reviews, etc. These items were met with reluctance when we tried to provide them to our insured’s through the CWA,” said Allen. Without these loss control mechanisms they felt the program would not remain viable.

    Changes Ahead for CWA Insurance

    Insurance-file-folders

    In October of this year the Climbing Wall Association announced that Veracity Insurance had “chosen not to continue its service as CWA’s insurance program provider.” Veracity was the only insurance provider under the CWA program.  At the time Bill Zimmerman, CWA’s Chief Executive Officer, said that the CWA was already in discussions with several other insurance providers and promised to work expediently to find a replacement.  The CWA is expected to announce the selection of a new insurance program provider in the next week.

    With all these changes afoot we thought it would be helpful to look into the daunting and sometimes complicated world of commercial insurance.  This is the first in a series of articles CBJ will be publishing on insurance for climbing gyms.  In this first installment we review the types of insurance options that all climbing wall operators should consider.

    According to a survey the CWA sent out to 800 members and non-members in August 2013, almost all climbing facilities purchase General Liability insurance, but less than half purchase other types of insurance:

    • Commercial General Liability = 98%
    • Property = 39%
    • Worker’s Compensation = 32%
    • Umbrella and Excess = 26%
    • Participant Accident Medical = 24%
    • Product Liability = 19%

    General Liability
    General liability insurance is the primary type of insurance used to protect climbing facilities.  Liability coverage safeguards you and your business from lawsuits or similar claims involving bodily injury, death or property damage.  Commercial liability insurance covers claims by third parties, including members of the public, visitors, contractors and even trespassers at your business.  In the event of a claim against your business, a policy will shield you from the expense of litigation, judgments awarded by courts and out-of-court settlements, up to the limits of your policy.

    Workers’ Compensation
    Workers’ Compensation is the insurance you would need to protect your employees when they are hurt on the job. Workers’ comp is required in most states unless an employer can demonstrate the capability to self-insure by demonstrating sufficient financial capacity and risk management capabilities. This insurance provides wage replacement and medical benefits to employees injured in the course of employment; in exchange the employee relinquishes their right to sue.

    Commercial Property
    Property insurance can protect your business from a minor hiccup to a major financial loss. Whether you own or lease your building, property insurance protects your business’ physical assets in the event of damage, loss or loss-of-use. In addition to the building, it would cover your business’s physical assets, such as climbing walls, padding, retail inventory, office furniture, computer equipment and exterior assets like signage and landscaping.

    Property insurance policies come in two basic forms: (1) All-Risk policies covering a wide-range of incidents and “perils” except those noted in the policy; (2) Peril-Specific policies that cover losses from only those perils listed in the policy. Examples of peril-specific policies include fire, flood, vandalism and business interruption insurance. All-risk policies generally cover risks faced by the average small business, while peril-specific policies are usually purchased when there is high risk of peril in a certain area.

    Accident Medical Insurance
    Accident medical insurance, unlike liability insurance, is payable without regard to fault. Accident medical insurance is either supplemental coverage and responds after the injured party’s health insurance, or primary if there is no other applicable coverage. This coverage is used to reimburse an injured party for out of pocket medical costs in the event of an accident.

    Product Liability
    Product liability insurance is used by company’s that manufacture or supply goods that could cause injury, death or  property damage.  Product liability claims could result from a manufacturing or design defect of the product, or from a failure to adequately warn of the product’s danger.

    Umbrella & Excess
    Excess insurance provides coverage in excess of other policies you hold. If your company is liable to a claim, the claim is paid by your primary insurance policies up to their limits, and any additional amount is paid by the Excess policy up to the Excess policy’s limit.

    Umbrella insurance is similar in that it provides additional coverage when the underlying policies reach their limits, with the added benefit of filling in the gaps on the underlying policies by insuring claims not covered by other policies.