Timestamps
00:00 – Intro 04:38 – About Claire Gordon 05:21 – About Team PinkPoint 07:43 – The Kilter Space 08:13 – The Campus x Team PinkPoint 10:10 – Value of Teams like PinkPoint 11:58 – Competition Climbing 12:59 – Targeting Routesetting for a Specific Audience 16:34 – Competition Simulation 19:05 – Utilizing Existing Routesetting in Gyms for Youth Athletes 20:28 – More Targeted Routesetting 27:11 – Training Time 30:29 – What to Set for Athletes 32:20 – Uncertainty in Competitions 34:06 – Ad Break 36:12 – Constants in Competitions 38:58 – Setting for Learning 40:24 – Leveling-Up Moves 46:43 – Tips for Setting for Kids 49:29 – Breaking Beta 55:39 – How can Routesetters be Better for Youth Programs 59:26 – Funny Moments with Youth Athletes 01:02:04 – Closing
Abridged Transcript
Can you tell the audience who you are and what you do in a couple of sentences?
I’m Claire. I grew up as a comp climber competing in the US as well as in France, and then transitioned into a coach. I have been working professionally in climbing as a coach for the last eight or nine years. And in the last year and a half, I started my own team called PinkPoint Training. We are an independent team, which means we’re not affiliated with a specific gym. And in the last couple weeks, I became part of a brand-new gym opening in Boulder.…Can we talk about the structure of an independent team? What does it mean to be not affiliated with a climbing gym?
…I am not an employee of a gym, and our athletes are not affiliated with a gym, meaning their shirts don’t say a gym on them. They aren’t tied to any memberships or anything, and we just bounce around between gyms. So, I do have contracts with a number of different gyms that allow me to come in and use their space, but we are contractors instead of employees.
…Can you tell me whether PinkPoint inspired the opening of [The Campus Climbing]? Is it because you wanted a space for PinkPoint athletes to train? Is it because you had a specific vision or mission in mind?
I think they go hand in hand, but it’s really important to me: this gym is not the PinkPoint gym. It’s not for our team. I tell my kids all the time that we could still get kicked out of this gym, which is mostly a joke. We probably won’t, but they could. So, really, while I would love to provide a space for our team, I really want to create a space where everyone who’s interested in training at a high level can come together and train, be that a 13-year-old kid who’s training for nationals, a 20-year-old who’s training for adult nationals, a 50-year-old who’s trying to send V10 again like they did back in the day, or really anyone in between. I’d like to create a space where anyone looking to train at a high level is an equal.…Why do you think teams like PinkPoint are important to have in this community? When you started PinkPoint, what is it? What do you see missing in the current youth competitive field that made you want to start PinkPoint?
Yeah, I think there’s a number of things that play into that and the bottom line is that a lot of coaches are not full-time coaches. They have many other roles within their gym. And I was feeling that myself trying to make ends meet financially and coach, I just didn’t have the bandwidth to pour 100% into the team and really give them the attention they deserve. And so, something really important to me is that is all I do: PinkPoint. I don’t also work a front desk shift. I’m there for my team, and when I routeset it is for my team, I’m able to set maybe for their weaknesses, maybe to build their confidence, set more compy moves. And something really special that we’re able to do is tweak the climb as we’re trying it…
…In addition to setting for your athletes, you are also, at some point, simulating a comp environment where that emotional side of the comp comes in…So in addition to simulating the climbing, you’re also simulating the emotional pressure?
Yeah. A lot of what we do in our setting is actually trying to simulate that emotional pressure. And I would never want to tell the kids this, but sometimes we’re like, “This top is just messed up. I don’t know if anyone’s going to match this, but let’s just see.” And then we see, do they break in that moment? And that’s a learning opportunity to be like, “Cool. How did you handle that? You went up there, you fell trying to match the top, and you had 15 seconds left, and you decided to get back on. That was bad time management,” or “You fell matching the top one minute in, and then you just cried for the rest of your three minutes. That was poor emotion management.” And hopefully, we can work out all these kinks before the comp. But I say that and we will never, ever be able to work out all the kinks before the comp because you just can’t simulate the pressure of how much it matters when you’re there.And you mentioned earlier that you still split your time between taking your kids to commercial gyms under contracts. How do you utilize commercial gyms’ existing routesetting that you are not creating for your athletes to help them perform or improve?
Anytime an athlete gets to onsite a climb that is good training for us. So, bouncing around between gyms is really beneficial, because almost every time we go into a gym, there’s something new for our kids to climb, and we have no idea what we’re going to get at a comp. I think sometimes people are like, “When we show up to nationals, it’ll be triple paddle dynos and bat hangs and it’s going to be crazy.” And then they just get a crimp power block. And they’re like, “What?” But we do still see that in comps, and it is important to be prepared for anything. And so that’s really cool, too. We get to climb on so many different people’s routesetting, and they get so many opportunities to onsite. We’re not seeing what a kid specifically wants to work on……How do you split this? Like, on the simulation comp days, and on tweak and fun days, and your train at other gym days: how do you divide the time between these [days] with your athletes?
Yeah, so it really depends on where we are in the season. So, let’s say in September the kids go back to school, we start back up with practices. There’ll be much more of learning movement, learning technique, playing with climbing, playing with different moves, just learning and experiencing together, and then the phase we were just in. So, we had nationals at the beginning of July, and I would say in June right before that, we’re really not fine-tuning a lot of the technical aspects, and we’re more fine-tuning the mental aspects, doing more mock comps, trying to expose them to different moves. And something we get to do in our routesetting, too, is build our kids’ confidence…
There are definitely, and correct me if I’m wrong, parts of your training and your routesetting for your kids that are constant. For example, things that we see in comps a lot. We’ll probably see a rose move. We’ll probably see a run and jump. We’ll probably see paddles in various difficulties and levels. How do you go about helping your kids learn and learn them to a point where it’s almost second nature, these constants that do appear in competition?
In climbing, I think this idea of constants is they’re constant over time. And I think that causes a lot of conflict for kids and adults. They’ll watch a comp, and they’ll be like, “That comp had no dynos.” I’m like, “Yeah, we see comps with no dynos, but as a general average across time, we do see dynos. Right?” But that doesn’t mean that every single comp you go to will have a dyno. I think in our regionals this year, there were zero dynos. And I had kids be like, “What the heck? I trained dynos, and then I didn’t see a dyno.” Yeah, that will happen. But these kind of general movement patterns, we try to teach them movement and understanding of their body in space, rather than “Here’s how you do this paddle,” because you’ll never, ever see this paddle again, so it doesn’t matter. But do you understand how you’re generating movement? Where is your belly button over your toe? Where are your hips? Did you generate three times and let go when your hands were at your hips? Did you let go when your hands were at your shoulders? How much did you drive through your legs? When did you let go of the right hand versus the left hand? So, it’s less about learning the move……Let’s say you’re setting a learning moment for me. I need to learn how to dyno and how my body works, moves through space. You set the easy level. I do it…How do you as the routesetter and coach now level that up?…
There’s so many different parts to it and I really like to do it in multiple parts. So, I’d be like, okay, I’m going to lower the feet. Same thing, but the feet are lower, so the way you generate is a little different. And we talk about how moving those feet change the experience. Okay, now I’ll put the feet back and I’m going to move the hand further. So you get that same initial generation from your feet, but you’re going to a further hold. Okay, we’ll talk about how to do that. Okay, now I’m going to put the feet lower again and keep the hand further. Can we still do this? Okay, now I’m going to downsize the feet and it’s really incremental. And we will talk together about, “Well, what did that do for you, for me to change that? Why did this get harder?…
…Most coaches who work at commercial gyms are oftentimes also routesetters, or routesetters are also coaches or coaches have a background in routesetting, competition climbing. So, in your experience and just all these years of coaching and routesetting, what are some of the common mistakes you see in routesetting at a commercial facility that can hinder an elite athlete’s performance and training?
Yeah, I think the biggest one is I work with kids who are 4’9” and very legitimately can climb V12. If they can reach it, they can climb it. And I think a lot of those kids are not able to actually be pushed to their full potential because the routesetting doesn’t allow it. Those kids sometimes just stop being able to reach at V5. And I think there’s a misconception on, “Well, if we set for kids, then it’s stupid easy if you’re six feet tall.” And that’s just not true, right? Like, a 4’9” kid and a six-foot-tall dude or lady could [project] the same climb. Maybe there’s a foot that the 4’9” kid is using, but the six-foot-tall person would just never consider using it. It’s just us adding a small foot option all of a sudden that gave the kid the opportunity to proj V10….…What are some things, or, I don’t know, questions to ask yourself or step by steps that a commercial routesetter can do if they want to begin to set for their elite team or their younger sibling who just started climbing?
Yeah, I think the very first thing is meet those kids. Talk to them. I just had a conversation with a very experienced routesetter, someone who set at a national level, who looked at me and said, “Oh my gosh, 4’8” is so much smaller than I thought it was.” I had texted them and been like, “Yeah, one of my kids is 4’8”, can you try [to set] a climb? And they were like, “For sure. He can totally reach everything.” And then the kid got on the climb, and he was like, “Oh, no, 4’8” is so short.” So the first step is just meet these kids, get to know them, watch them climb. I think a lot of routesetters clock out at 4:00 or 5:00 and then the youth team shows up at 5:00. And so a lot of them have never even seen who these kids are. And all of my favorite routesetters, all of the best route setters in my experience know the kids, even if that’s just because they climbed with them once…
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A Celebration to Remember
To celebrate this remarkable journey, ICP hosted a special social competition at their climbing gym HQ, bringing together climbers from all over to compete, connect, and celebrate the sport they love. The competition was followed by a 1920s-themed party, an evening filled with vintage glamour, live music, and festivities. The event was attended by climbers, industry friends, and special guests who have been a part of ICP’s journey over the years.
“Our 15th anniversary is a moment of pride and reflection,” said Rob Parer, Founder and CEO of ICP. “Looking back on how far we’ve come—from creating holds and hang boards in a small workshop to becoming a global leader in the climbing industry—is truly amazing. This celebration was not just about our success but also about the incredible community that has supported us every step of the way.”
The Genesis of a Vision
ICP’s journey began in 2009 with a vision to revolutionize the climbing experience, drawing on years of experience from working in climbing gyms and route setting. Starting with the creation of climbing holds and hang boards in a small workshop, the company quickly gained recognition for its commitment to quality and innovation. Driven by a passion for the sport and a desire to support the climbing community, ICP expanded into designing custom climbing walls, hosting social competitions, and launching an athlete program, all while laying the foundation for what would become a global leader in the industry.
Building a Legacy with Innovative Products
Over the past 15 years, ICP has been involved in a wide array of projects that have helped to shape the climbing landscape. ICP Walls have set the standard for durability and design, offering customizable options that meet the specific needs of each facility. These walls, designed with both aesthetics and functionality in mind, have made ICP a go-to partner for gyms looking to create unique and engaging climbing environments.
Complementing ICP Walls, ICP Mats provide top-tier safety solutions, designed to absorb impact and reduce the risk of injury. These mats, engineered with cutting- edge materials, have become a staple in climbing gyms worldwide, ensuring that climbers can push their limits with confidence.
ICP Volumes have also become a game-changer in the industry with the ICP Raps system. These versatile, modular shapes allow route setters to create dynamic and challenging climbs that can be adjusted to suit different skill levels. The introduction of ICP Volumes has given gyms and route setters a powerful tool to continually refresh their climbing offerings, keeping climbers engaged and coming back for more.
Looking to the Future
As ICP celebrates its 15th anniversary, the company is already looking ahead to the future. With plans to expand its product offerings globally and explore new frontiers in climbing technology, ICP is poised to continue leading the industry into the next decade. The development of new and innovative products remains at the forefront of ICP’s mission, ensuring that the company continues to provide climbers with the best possible experience.
“Our journey so far has been incredible, but we’re just getting started,” says Rob Parer,. “The climbing world is constantly evolving, and so are we. We’re excited to bring new ideas and solutions to the community, and we look forward to seeing ICP Walls, ICP Mats, and ICP Volumes in even more climbing facilities around the world.”
About ICP
ICP is a premier provider of climbing wall design, manufacturing, building, holds supply, and route setting services. Founded in 2009, ICP has become a trusted name in the climbing industry, known for delivering innovative solutions that enhance the climbing experience for the climbing community worldwide. ICP’s flagship products—including ICP Walls, ICP Mats, and ICP Volumes—continue to set the standard for quality and innovation in the climbing world.
As ICP moves into the future, it remains committed to the core values that have guided it for the past 15 years—values that ensure it will remain a leader in the climbing industry for many years to come.
